Read 3m 6055 adhesive dot roller reviews, rating & opinions:Check all 3m 6055 adhesive dot roller reviews below or publish your opinion.
100 Reviews Found
This adhesive was used for a unique app where closed cell EPDM foam had to be mated with a natural rubber lip, and remain attached following extensive elastic deformation and subjection to shear forces. The bond resisted "peel off' much better than a silicone glue, and was virtually immune to elastic deformation. It cleans up well with MEK or MEK substitute. Yet another solid specialty adhesive from 3M.
This is a high quality professional bonding adhesive for attaching body panels on vehicles and trucks. Have been using this product for a lot of years in the body . This is normally very pricey !! This seller it for a VERY FAIR . factory sealed packaging and quick shipping . Please be aware that this requires a unique applicator gun . This is not really intended for homeowner use and requires several steps in for it to bond properly .Works very well and can eliminate a lot of welding in non structural repair .
Seller was amazing in my case. 2 tubes back filled aka leaked on little side. 3m should have this figured out. It requires a unique gun and fittings on top of that. The bond agent works well. There are nearly no true instructions for best practices of use so it's a learning curve. It does what I wish but I [email protected]#$%! was easier to obtain results
Spent over $400 on a welder and accessories before a local body convinced me that structural adhesive was a better way for fender arch and cab corner rust repairs. They were right - this items is awesome - and was far more practical for the repairs I required to make.With some planning, and the use of a heat gun, I was able to fabricate a floor pan / inner panel / help brace / outer skin assembly that matched the original damaged locations - and installed within an hour. After a 24 hour cure time, I had a clean, solid starting point for the final bodywork, without having to fool around with weld-thru primers or seam sealers - and the repaired locations aren't going to rust out again within a couple of years.
I bought this to support me when replacing the partial trunk floor on my old mustang. As my mustang was recently painted, I wanted to use this panel bonding adhesive in the one spot that I really couldn't weld without jacking up the paint. So, although I welded the whole trunk floor in (to the frame rail, bumper support, wheel well, etc.) I attempted to glue the 10 inch "pinch weld" zone where the trunk drop off attaches to the bottom of the rear quarter panel. Note that I had welded the fresh panel solidly everywhere except this one 10 inch I do not own the unique caulk gun this thing requires, instead I used a vise and a couple of short pieces of pipe to turn my vise into a glue dispenser and pushed out the correct ratio of parts a and b through the included mixing nozzle onto a paper plate, then I used a little bladed paint scraper to apply the mixture along the pinch seam, then I placed clamps every 1.5 inches along the pinch welded ter 36 hours the glue remained slightly tacky, but I went ahead and removed the clamps. Within a few hours, the seam started separating. As only about one inch at the front had separated, I reclamped and place mid-sized tack weld at the front of the seam to hold it from being able to come apart.About a week later, I was ready to trim off some additional steel where the trunk drop off extended past the quarter panel's pinch weld (both in locations I had welded and in the glued area). Absolutely no issues in the locations I had welded using a little body saw to trim the repop trunk floor to fit right, but when I got to the glued part, the reciprocating motion of the saw blade caused the glue joint to separate completely.I had heard that these panel adhesives are super strong....but if you're talking about using a single bead in put of stitch welding along a pinch weld area....this does not seem "doable". Suggest you just go ahead and weld it and take it to the body for touch up if needed. Glue doesn't seem to be nearly as powerful as welding.
Used this product to adhere a fresh metal floor in my 2008 E250 Van. Floor rusted out from inside due to roof leak. Followed the instructions closely. Used the 3M brand manual caulk gun. Used this product in hot and cold weather and both times it cured as supposed to. Product has perfect work time so you wont be rushed doing the job. I also used this product to glue the metal shelving back into my van. The grommets holding the bolts for the shelving caused cracking in the metal which caused noisy movement during driving. Applied 3M panel bond to the grommet, bolt and bracket and reinstalled the shelving. Absolutely prevented all shelve rattling while driving. Used it to glue aluminum brackets for a metal diamond plated pick up truck cover in lieu of drilling and grommets. Brackets are on like they were welded. The installs i have done in October of 2018 and used the cars extensively since then. Nothing came apart or cracked. Product comes in a two part epoxy tube. Even after using only halve of a tube, the rest stays amazing for a long time. 3M panel bond is a superb and versatile product. It deserves more than five stars for sure.
I used 3M 08115 for the first time on my 1954 Chevy Pickup that required some little patches on its holey roof and firewall. I chose this product after a lot of hours of research and debating versus welding, braising, fiberglass, and other products. the le reason why I chose this is because welding huge surfaces such as a roof can warp the roof if not done properly and even then there is no guarantee. Another reason is that welding melts both metals down and can potentially inbed impurities and rust into the weld only to pop up later. With this epoxy you eliminate the potentially for any of this to occur. This is probably some of the reasons why most vehicle manufacturers are using this product to secure their panels on their vehicles in lieu of welding. Also, because it seam seals all in one step. From all the forums posts and reviews that I read I was unable to search anyone that had actually used this product that wasn't completely happy with it's performance. I borrowed a really nice gun (it requires a double tube epoxy gun btw) from a mate and went to town. It applies like hot peanut butter, gives you plenty of working time, smooths out flat, and it cures hard as steel. I love it. I have since used it on other projects and it has performed great. Some tips: It says on the product material that you can reuse it by leaving the hint on there, allow it dry and leaving it on till you need it again at which time you just unscrew it and place a fresh one on. I read this after I have cleaned the outlet very well and place the top back on. This can be a small tedious. Using the used hint seems a lot easier to do. Another hint is that I was working with little 2"x 2" patches for my non structural hole repair. I found that using little yet powerful magnets to hold the patches in put as they dried worked awesomely. For the intended application, it is the best there is. Test it and you'll agree.Update....... I have used this product a lot since this posting and continue to be in awe of its strength and ease of use. I can see most welding falling into antiquity when everyone finally brakes from what they are used to and tries this stuff. BTW for shorter claiming times, apply heat from a heat gun. It sets up in about three minutes. Another benefit to this product is that you can bond unlike metals such as steel and aluminum and since there is a layer of epoxy in between them you don't have to worry about them reacting with each other causing galvanic corrosion. sorry for the long-winded review but I hope you search this helpful.
Although this is just a "refill" and not a stand alone product, I was able to create it work. I used a huge bolt to push the plungers. I dumped it all out into a bowl. I had no intention of using any additional later. Mixed it up in the bowl, using the included applicator hint which mixes it when using the proper plunger. I just stirred with it instead of pushing it through the tip. I even used the hint as a spreader to spread the epoxy out.I have a metal plate for a pop-up camper that needs to be attached to a fiberglass floor. The old epoxy came loose after about 6 years. It has only been in put for a few days now, but it seems to hold. I guess I set my expectation at another 6 years and then may have to do this set up slow enough to give me time to obtain it spread all over. I clamped and allow it set for 24 hours. I don't think it has to be that long, but I allow it set that long.
the first half of this tube mixed and applied perfectly. Halfway through the tube, the thinner tube started leaking and it wasnt mixing at the applicator tip. I tried a fresh hint and it was still not mixing correctly. All of the remaining adhesive was not mixed and never set up on my panels. I expected more for a $45 3M product.
Used 3m panel bond to install patch panels on all four fenders of my 1951 ford f1 truck. Used a couple butt welding clamps to keep each panel in place. Ran panel bond all around edge of patch. Penetrated gap just fine like mig welding would do. Next day pulled clamps out and filled in the holes where i had removed them. Place some panel bond on back of fender for a bit more stability. When it all hardened i sanded the panel bond flush with a flap disk. Repainted it and now it looks amazing like a welded in patch panel would have. I also used the blue Cox brand gun which is cheaper and it worked awesome.
I had to replace a lot of body panels on my 84 Chevy Suburban due to rust. I have been welding for years; but at the tip of a mate who is a professional auto body and paint tech, he told me to use this product instead. Wow, am I glad I listened to his advice! This adhesive is super simple to work with and much faster than welding in body panels. Very low smell and the 90 min work time is great. No worries about warping panels due to welding either. Restoring cars is my hobby, so I had no issue paying the $$ for the unique applicator gun. I will be using this product again on future projects.
Amazing idea. I use these with my grandchildren and a children's church class for craft projects. Excellent for the times you only need one drop of glue. Very simple to handle and obtain off of the backing. they have not dried out even though I live in a dry desert area.
These are quite tiny... they keep well, but next time I’ll obtain the larger size, unless I know I need teensy dots.. They are kind of irritating to obtain off the roll if you have to do a lot of them. I prefer the dots in a dispenser... but kind of feel guilty adding a short lived plastic dispenser to the environment!! This box is cardboard and sturdy enough. Amazing quality adhesive.
These dots are super simple to use, and create scrapbook projects a breeze! They are repositionable, so I could adjust at leisure. The dots are small, so I used several for larger items, but they still held well. I would not hesitate to this again!
Finally!!! I’m so sick of buying pop sockets for my phone because the sticky wears off. I have a rubbery (gel I guess) case and I removed the @#$% off the pop socket, cleaned my case and used this items to glue that sucker on and I don’t think it will ever come off now!!! Thank you thank you thank you!
Used it in my home recording/mixing studio. Excellent for permanent mounting of acoustic foam. I used it also to glue sheets of 3" high pressed wood pulp packing material (the kind used to separate, um, wine bottles in shipping cartons) to the ceiling as diffusors, for which the "Super 77" adhesive was not powerful enough.
I purchased this adhesive to let me to create huge o-rings for electronic instruments. I have tried several types of adhesives in the past and most will not bond with rubber or plastic very well. This one does. I works as well as the adhesive contained in o-ring kits and it dries quickly.
4 ½ stars. This item is listed in several locations on Amazon. Am sure I bought it from another vendor for around $18 that included shipping.1. The right adhesive- After reviewing other spray adhesives, I settled on this one for the fabric headliner in my 1999 Ford Powerstroke, primarily because the 3M app tutorial recommended it for headliners and fabric. The headliner had separated from its foam backing where it meets the windshield, stretching 24" from the center to both the passenger and driver side A pillars. Only an after shop overhead console prevented the headliner from drooping down to the rearview mirror. So I was looking at reattaching the liner where I had as small as 1/16" in all corners to ~3" away from the windshield. There were other 3M sprays with #s above and below the magic 76 at the local huge box DIY stores and smaller volume hardware stores, but not this one, so ordered this from Amazon. The only local stores I didn't test were the craft largest concern was that some reviews reported that it would eat foam and in fact, it states on the can that it will attack beadboard or Styrofoam. My foam backer board for the headliner was not eaten as was borne out by testing a little spot prior to full blown use. Another concern in using it was that the hint should be 4'-8" from the surface to be sprayed. That turned out to be an almost non-issue as working a small closer was not a cause of the volatile nature of the vapors, I believe that a respirator that can handle organic vapors is an absolute necessity when using this spray. Moreover, I was going to be using it under the worst possible conditions (inside an enclosed vehicle) and was simply not going to take any chances. I ordered the 3M R6211 Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly, Medium for the job and is reviewed separately. I also used safety glasses that had enough room to accommodate my very thin profile readers from costco for some closer-up work.2. Adjustable Spray- directions on the can say to select the desired spray pattern by turning the hint to the desired position. The hint was set to vertical and I would have preferred horizontal, but I couldn't turn the hint away from it's "as received" position. Didn't wish to force it, because my luck is that things break when I that, so I left it. Turned out it probably worked better set to vertical.3. Vapors and safety tips- USE A RESPIRATOR AND SAFETY GLASSES/GOGGLES especially if you have to work in a confined zone like a vehicle. These vapors are extremely volatile and extremely flammable. The warning on the can states that even static electricity can set them off. They also linger in the work environment. A "flash fire" can ignite the vapors and follow them back to the can. We are in the monsoon season now and with the higher humidity, static is virtually non-existent. At our usual 10% or less humidity here, static is a true ter spraying, I felt encumbered by the respirator and created the mistake of removing it to carefully roll the fabric back to its original position when doing the driver side. The vapor instantly invaded my respiratory system and for several hours thereafter, I experienced a raspy voice and was constantly trying to clear my upper bronchial zone and throat. I did not repeat that practice on the passenger side. Don't be stupid, use a respirator that can handle organic vapors. Lingering vapors irritated my eyes after a few mins delay. Leave protective gear ON until you leave the work area.4. Tack Time- 3M states that when using this spray on 1 surface of two to be joined, TT is 1-10 mins and when sprayed on both surfaces, 1-60 minutes. With the exception of unintentional over spray onto the foam, I generally sprayed just 1 surface (the fabric). I had secured the side of the fabric to be sprayed with pins, overlaying it onto newspaper to protect the overhead headliner. I had enough time to remove the pins (now tacky) and carefully place them in a container I had prepared for that purpose. I also had plenty of time to carefully roll the fabric back into position over it's 24" length using a thin bamboo skewer. The skewer was actually an perfect aid for this project for working in the tight zone at the "A" pillar and for rolling the fabric. Tackiness seemed to become more aggressive as I worked.5. Cleanup- Directions on the can say to use turpentine to clean the tip. Also works on some overspray I caused when first testing the hint outside the vehicle. It sprayed farther and wider than I expected. I did this repair in 2 stages and cleaned the hint several times. A little syringe is also useful for forcing the turpentine through the tip. I used a very little 1cc capacity one that our vet gave us to administer medication to a pet. The respirator support my already irritated respiratory system here, nclusion: This spray helped me pull off what was viewed as a most unlikely or potentially mediocre repair, at best. I took 4 days to do both sides, 90% of which was used to mask for overspray, carefully expose, clean and pin back the side of the fabric to be sprayed. I gave this spray 4 ½ stars because I am not sure how long it will hold the headliner from drooping again. But judging from the method it was tacking, I suspect it will keep for quite a while, perhaps years. Longevity will probably be increased by having taken the care to use some duct tape to pick up as much of the old powdery foam from from the fabric as possible. I spent more time on the fabric as the foam board seemed to be showing signs of degradation the more I tried to clean it.Pick the right spray for the job, observe the safety precautions, prepare in advance for cleanup, don't be in a hurry and you should be as satisfied as I am, especially if you are doing something in a tight zone such as a headliner close to the windshield and A pillars!
I used this to glue a heat pad for an RV holding tank back on that was starting to come off. I just cleaned up any street grime, sprayed the pad and tank, waited about 2 min, and then pressed it on. Create sure to wear gloves as this items can obtain a bit sloppy and it is VERY sticky. I place that pad back on about a month ago, and have driven the RV on the highway for about 400 miles since then, and it is holding on just fine. Worked like a charm.
The upholstery on the side door of my Mustang GT started peeling off; it got so poor that almost all the fabric hung down over the vehicle door handle!I tried a few other spray adhesives but none of them held for long. But this 3M 76 was excellent for the job. The side of the door looks like fresh and it is holding fine in this GA heat!I highly recommend this product for vehicle upholstery applications. Doing this job myself probably saved me a few hundred bucks!
I have a welcome mat that had a beautiful sad backing and was thin and flimsy. To solve this issue, I purchased a thick, rubber, plain welcome mat and first used super glue to glue it to the back of my existing welcome mat. After a few weeks, the super glue allow go and the two mats en, I tried to use gorilla glue to glue to two mats together, on the recommendation of a friend. It did latest longer ( around three months ) but it too, eventually allow ustrated and at the end of my wits, I googled " Strongest rubber adhesive " and this 3m PR40 popped re enough, 1.5 years later, the original app of this glue has not lost adhesion.A word of warning though: be VERY careful when applying this stuff. It is EXTRMELY sticky and hard to remove if you drop it on your clothes or skin.
This performed just as well as any (cheaper) cyanoacrylate super glue on neoprene rubber to stainless steel. As per 3M's datasheets it should be much, much better (and why we bought it in the first place). 3M's own general purpose super glue gel holds better than what we got in the bottle, hence why I think it may just be superglue with an expensive 3M label on the bottle (alternatively, 3M's data sheet could be wrong... but I search that quite unlikely).
I have tried a number of products over the years to glue plastic. This product is by far the best I have tried. So far I have used it repair a plastic magic wand and a plastic princess shoe. I have also used this product to glue the rubber sole of one of my shoes back to the body of the shoe. I recommend this product. To me, it is worth the money.
this is a amazing product. Used for glueing a plastic/rubber oar lock back into a rubber dingy. non-viscous enough to fill the cracks in rubber, it seeped into the little cracks and left the surface smooth and solid but flexible.
Very powerful adhesive. This one literally welds plastic to plastic or rubber to rubber. I have never seen anything this strong. This is my go to adhesive now. Very ts fast! You need to be careful. The objects to stick together should be in amazing alignment before contact. The adhesion happens in seconds. Also, best to wear gloves. Once it sticks to your skin, you cannot scrub it off. You have to wait for your skin to shed.
This product saved me over a $100.00 plus, because when my wheel chair rubber adhesive backed power control cover came lose and fell off, I ckd and it would cost me over a 100 bucks to obtain a fresh one. I used this rubber to plastic glue to reapply it , it work great. JUST PUT A "SMALL" DROP ROUND THE SIDES AND REAPPLY THE CONTROLLER;S RUBBER COVER AND WH LA ! IT WORK GREAT.
Used this spray adhesive to mount very light foam acoustic panels to my walls for soundproofing. They stuck well at first, but a week later were falling down by the dozen. I apparently got the wrong strength of spray adhesive for very light foam. I reinstalled them using 3m Super 77 adhesive, which I guess is one level up from this... and it seems to have worked. None of the reinstalled tiles have fallen since. Still have some of the originals falling off and I'm replacing them as they do.If you need to stick image prints on a bulletin board, this might work fine. If you need to mount anything even SLIGHTLY heavier, go for the heavier-duty spray adhesive.
No matter how much I shake the can prior to using, the spray comes out in globs that does not cover the surface to be covered. It looks like foam rather than a fine spray. Went to the 3M www service to see how the nozzle works and mine does not look anything like what their www service shows. Apparently you can rotate the nozzle for horizontal or vertical flow. Mine cannot be rotated as shown online. Need to use a pliers and it sprays when trying to rotate the nozzle.
I bought this to affix Thinsulate insulation to the roof and walls of my van. Does the job of bonding the insulation to metal well and two months afterward, there's no separation. I also used it to glue synthetic grass to a extruded dog ramp. It didn't work well to spray only one surface. It did, however, work fine when I sprayed both surfaces.
outperforms the generic brands by a wide margin. I bought 2 of 3M's top of the line applicators which we use to affix wood chips to plywood. Our company is saving by using a more uniform bead, cutting back on waste, and virtually eliminating complaints from customers about pieces falling off.
This worked well to glue aluminum foil to a styrofoam box I created to protect my sprinkler system vacuum breaker valve from freezing. Fast setting and simple to use spray. The only down side is trying to obtain it off your fingers afterward!
This adhesive spray is inexpensive, and it worked perfectly for the project I bought it for (decorating fabric for a workplace Ugly Sweater Contest). But I haven't been able to use the spray effectively since then for a few rst, the spray itself is a small difficult to control out of the nozzle. It's hard to place a layer of consistent strength, and the nozzle itself needs to be wiped clean after every use. Second, even though the bottle says "general purpose," it's really not powerful enough to attach objects with any significant weight. For instance, this spray didn't keep weatherstripping very well. For heavy-duty items, you should probably a small more for some 3M headliner spray. Finally, the adhesive begins sticking as soon as you spray it. This sounds like a amazing thing, but you have to be very careful that you lay an item down correctly the first time. Oddly, even though it *begins* sticking almost immediately, you need to create sure that all of the zone you sprayed is covered up, because it will *remain* sticky for d in the fact that the spray will stain certain surfaces, and the end effect is a product that can only be used in certain situations. Now to be fair, when you can use it, it's an perfect product. I was just hoping to be able to use it a small more often.
This is the best adhesive ever purchased. It works wonderfully on labels attached to glass. I've used it on a broken frame on A fish tank that's plastic and it works perfectly, Also gluing wood together for frames around my silicone soap molds to help the weight of the oils for homemade soap. This adhesive has endless possibilities for a lot of various uses. Crafting projects making and decorating my soap boxes. I can't say enough amazing things about this product. I would recommend others to test it, you won't be sorry you did. When I run low, I will again. Thank you.
The adhesive on these are SUPER powerful which is obviously the main benefit. I haven't had any problems since I purchased them. I posted some laminated signs in the outdoor environment two weeks ago and they are still holding up strong. The only down side is the high price, but you obtain what you for. If you are willing to spend a few more bucks for the better product, then I would recommend getting this spray glue.
Our windshield wiper fluid hose got a hole in it somehow and instead of buying a fresh hose (which would have been cheaper and created more sense) my husband found this and was like, "This works on boats, so it should work on this" and bought it... At first I was thinking, "Okay, go ahead and experiment with it and then we will obtain you a hose later when you're @#$%ed off that it doesn't work" but it worked!!Follow directions when you use this thing. It says to wait at least 24 hours (I think) and he waited about 23 and tried it and it didn't seal it. But then he did it again and used 2 layers and it's been perfect. No more leaky wiper fluid!!
I have an underwater pool light that kept leaking in the back where the cord goes into the unit. I tried everything to seal that but nothing worked. I was getting ready to a whole fresh unit which is not only expensive but a pain as you have to pull the cord all the method through the conduit and pray it doesn't jam somewhere in the middle. I came across this and thought it would be worth a test and I'm glad I did!
Used to re-bond harmonic balancer outer ring to rubber liner. Worked great. Can't beat 5200 if you need to create things stick together, stay flexible, and waterproof.Ordered white, got black... not like it makes a difference for my use. deliver was fast, pack undamaged
Works extremely well and is permanent if directions are followed. I am not sure I have used an adhesive that has worked as well. I was repairing a marine grade plywood floor in a 1985 Checkmate. It bonded and sealed well in the two spots I required to remain watertight. I used it when mating up the patch piece of plywood and place some in pilot holes before drilling in the SS screws. Very a suggestion - it is considered one time use. If you tightly seal the lid and place in a ziplock back and place in freezer - you can obtain multiple uses out of it.
I guess it was an old tube of sealant. When I tried to break the seal, I noticed the top part was ever since the quantity I required was minimal and the lower part of the tube was soft, I created a hole and managed to do the job I had to do.I had no time to return it and a fresh one.....
The adhesive is the same amazing items you obtain from 3m, but the inverted can you can only spray downward. Very poor for doing a ceiling on a boat. And yes it’s my fault for not reading the description fully. Hope the headline helps someone who rushes through the ordering like I did.
I used this in a recording studio on sound proofing foam. Works great! I tried a can of an off brand and the smell lingered for over 2 days. This dries in 30 seconds. Gives plenty of time to adjust foam before it sets. You don't have to keep it till it dries. It's still a bit sticky right out of the can. Best part is the smell was gone in half an hour. I don't have the best ventilation in the room so it was necessary it went away quickly. I had stationary equipment still in the room and no movie from the spray was left on it. The other one I had left an annoyingly difficult to remove movie even on my phones screen I left on a table. This ones superb!
This items is awesome. It's remarkably adhesive - far more so than I expected from anything in a can - and sets relatively quickly, though not too quickly to stop you from correcting a little error. It's also surprisingly is has been used in my house for all sorts of things - gluing images to a poster, glitter and such to a cardboard backdrop, a unbelievable replacement for actually wrapping boxes (holiday collection boxes; spray-glued wrapping paper was so, so much better than actually wrapping them). I've even used it to fix the foam in our Sleep Number bed, and as one component of a not good man's MacGyver-esque air chamber patch. In none of these tasks has it disappointed, and I'm sure I'll only search more with riously, this items is great. I want I'd learned of it years ago.
Use this if you need a contact cement that allows you to reposition the item(s) during assembly. I used this to fasten aerospace heat insulation to the floor of my truck, over Dynamat Extreme sound deadener. It worked just like it said it would, and it is repositionable. However, it will not stick quite as tough as the 3M #90 spray adhesive, which I also used for part of this project.
The feature (weight of product) is inconsistent. While it states 11 lb, the default way only delivers 12-13 oz. Ordering for one or the other suppliers (Q&A) delivers the full 11 tached images present ordering from Amazon vs. Tape and Adhesives Specialists.
this is a amazing glue for a powerful semi-permanent bond, that is I don't expect it to latest forever as time heat and humidity will loosen its bond. It is amazing for wreath making or crafts of all kinds that you might expect to latest a few years with occasional use but not for gluing something you don't wish to have to glue again that you use every day or nearly so.
It is a amazing adhesive as long it is not exposed to heat. I used to test to glue the interior side of our car. Well, the first 105 F weather was enough to pull that apart. It is a amazing adhesive as I said but It might be useful for other purposes.
I realize that sounds ridiculous but I can't be the only one on the planet who thinks she doesn't need to read directions and follow them. The first time I used spray adhesive to adhere insulation to my garage doors I thought, "How hard can this be?" (or maybe it was, "This is going to be so easy!") but either way, I didn't read the directions on the can and the insulation fell off the garage doors every time we opened forward to show time: I reapplied the spray adhesive and followed the directions to the letter. Now we are able to begin and close the garage without insulation falling off in our faces (or the faces of other people which can be kind of embarrassing). It's been well over a year since I did it correctly and insulation is still stuck like glue. te please that the directions say "Use in a well-ventilated area" and that's definitely one thing you ought to a lot of attention to for you as well as your this stuff, and have to mention one more thing - it was sold and shipped to me by Amazon Prime and arrived less than 48 hours after I ordered it. YAY Amazon Prime (I did check the "no rush shipping" option)
It was shown as a companion item to some acoustic foam I purchased. I followed the instructions to the letter. If the item has any kind of mass, like above one ounce, it will stick for a day or so and then fall off. I have drenched the item and allow the glue obtain tacky as instructed. I mount the 12" X 12" acoustic foam square and it falls off. I tried to stick Styrofoam 1/2" thick 12" X 12" and it fell off in a few hours. I'm going to use two sided tape UGlu 900 Contractor Pack, it is much more effective and less money.
Love this spray on adhesive. I used it on some cardboard squares to attach foam egg crate sound panels into our podcast studio/music room to reduct the echo. You spray the adhesive on the zone that you want to bond, wait about 30 seconds or so for the adhesive to become tacky, and then adhere the other piece or item on, in my case, the sound panels. It worked well (I did this outside to hold the fumes and adhesive away from the floors, beds and dogs), the corners did not lift and when my fingers got sticky, it was easy to remove with soap and warm water. Highly recommend! I love 3M products.
While we were replacing the subfloor in our bathroom, the water basin on our toilet cracked. We were trying to hold the project as under budget as possible, and a fresh toilet would have broken us. I scoured the handyman resources of the interwebs, and found a forum, and specifically, someone asking for tip - what to do with barely cracked porcelain on a toilet. The responses were less than reassuring. The overwhelming majority of the advice-givers recommended buying a fresh toilet. One lone person chimed in, possibly as a joke (?) "use the 3M for boats."Hmmm.... 3M for boats... but, could it work?I bit. I ordered a tube, and in preparation for the huge (little) delivery, we dried out the back of the toilet with towels, and then blow dried the ever living heck out of it. It was a veritable desert for 2 days. After we received the product, we covered the porcelain crack that was long but not wide. we covered both the inside and outside of the basin. We layered it on until the caulk was 1/2 inch thick on both sides of the basin. Then, we waited, with baited breath. Was it going to work, or did we just spend $10 that could have gone to buying a fresh toilet? Only time would tell.Fully 72 hours after applying this magic goop, we checked the outside. It felt solid, not that putty texture that most caulks have, but a solid sheath of hard plastic, like a toy you did not at dollar tree. We clenched our teeth and filled the basin. The first day, no leaks, and we were e second day, dry as a bone on the outside of the has now been 2 months since our jimmy fix was made, and nary a drop of errant water outside the basin. I would hesitate to use this for a basin that's broken in pieces, but I'm not entirely convinced that it couldn't keep together a deeper, wider, or longer crack.
I used this product to install a fresh thru-hull transducer I install in our ski boat. I would give it 5 stars except that I had to use a drill to bore through the first inch which seemed to have cured in the tube. Once I got through to the usable product it was fine, sealed up the fresh transducer and I haven't seen any sign of water coming in. Be warned that if you obtain this items on your hands it will be there for at least a week. It is very sticky and hard to wipe off.I recommend that you tape off any parts or locations you are working with too create clean up easier.
I use this on everything. I feel like a guy with this. I am Mrs. Fix It with this. LolEven used it my son's school shoe that he came home with totally damaged. Them bam! It's fresh again. LolVery powerful keep when done properly. Just follow directions and it will do what it's supposed to do.
Ordered the 3m Scotch Weld Holt Melt Adhesive "CLEAR" , description and picture both showed the as clear melt sticks. They arrived as a yellow/orange color.... I called the manufacturer of them and left a voice mail message, but no call back, no email, no response at all.
Hands-down THE BEST product for connecting pink foam pieces, but it has drawbacks. It makes a mess, so use it outside. Look out for the fumes. Wear eye protection. Try the weird spray pattern so you know what to expect. Remove overspray--of which there will be plenty-- from the foam and yourself by using Burt's Bees Mama Bee Nourishing Body Oil with Vitamin E. Yes, I'm serious.