Read cinelli experience road frameset aluminum caliper brake reviews, rating & opinions:Check all cinelli experience road frameset aluminum caliper brake reviews below or publish your opinion.
100 Reviews Found
This frame is super stiff and combined with right components, create for a highly responsive and quick machine. That being said, it ain’t built for comfort, so that’s the trade off for all that performance. But it is a attractive frame which will engender kudos, admiration and questions about it every time you take it out.
Works very well. I use it to clean brake calipers and hubs on cars. I've been using this heavily for several months and it is holding up well. The bristles are spreading out a bit (not unexpected) but not falling out. Will buy again when it's time.
this works amazing for cleaning dust and debris and light corrosion from brake caliper brackets and hub surfaces. it is well created and the handle feels very amazing in your hand. it is thin so it gets into smaller grooves and between lug nut studs. the latest one i bought lasted several years of beautiful constant use as a professional auto mechanic. i bought another one because the wires were breaking off of the part with the curve but i still haven't thrown it away because there is still plenty of bristles left
This tool definitely got the job done for cleaning all the grime off the hub, the calipers, and other brake parts. However, the metal bristles on the brush are now very bent after doing the full brakes on my car. I could probably obtain one more use out of this tool. I would have expected a tool to latest for more than one or two brake changes.
Have yet to test the product, but the pack arrived and I can definitely tell this a used kit. There is grease and wear marks on the caliper spreaders as well as grease all over the container. Disappointed as I thought this was going to be a fresh product.
This is so dang simple to use, comes with absolutely everything you need, and worked FLAWLESSLY!!!! I am a believer overnight. So glad I got this....didn't have to mess with C-clamps trying to push the piston back in or anything ridiculous like that. This fell under the "right tool for the job" category and just turned what used to be a timely process into a fast second thought. Used this on my 2013 VW Passat. Just be sure to TURN SLOWLY as you're pushing the piston back. This is necessary so you don't hurt the brake system. Just go slow, don't just crank down like a beast, and this will work perfectly. 10/10, would buy again. No problems with quality what so ever. Hope this works for my motorcycle, we shall see!
Backyard/driveway mechanic here. Tool worked as expected for a 2010 VW Jetta Sportswagen. Simple to use. Sometimes the disks fall out of their spot but no huge deal. The right tool, even if it's not a gleaming work of machined art, is much better than not having the tool at all.
It looks very sturdy. I have not tried it yet but examined the components. The bits looked dirty and container was full of black marks. But, it will eventually obtain dirty anyway so I did not mind. Kind of pricey for what you get. But, I will give it 5 stars if it works well when my brake pads arrive and I obtain to use it.Update:Well I used it for my brake job. It was kind of a pain to use. The round attachment at the end kept falling off. They should have created the pin longer so it inserts and says inserted. You have to keep the hex nut with a wrench with one hand along with the caliper, while twisting the end with your other hand. It was quite a doesnt look like it has a twisting square nut for the rear brakes. basically it has 2 T looking bars, one left and one right. Why do you need a left and right one? That totally makes no sense. Calipers will be pushed back inside, no matter if you are using the left or right T tool. I call it a T tool because it has a long handle on one end.I thought it was a complete kit for both front and back. I don’t think so. Might be best to buy the caliper tool separately without all the additional rings.
I've been working on cars, trucks, and motorcycles for 53 years. I'm also what could be called a tool freak. I simply love well-made tools. I have so a lot of tools that people are stunned when they enter my . Surprisingly, one tool set I don't have is a caliper piston compressor set. That's simply because I've never required one. I've done more brake jobs over the years that I could count but most have no needed spinning the caliper piston while compressing it into the caliper and I just use a fast-action C-clamp or fast-action bar clamp for that. In fact, I'll still do it that method for calipers that don't require spinning the piston because it's faster and more efficient that using a tool like this. (Nothing to assemble, almost no screwing down threads (fast-action), etc. A couple did require turning the pistons but I was able to spin the piston using makeshift methods but that was a bit of a pain. However, I'll be doing two brake jobs soon that I believe will require spinning the caliper piston so I used that as an excuse to add another tool set to my collection.I just received this set and I am very impressed. I am a huge suprised at a couple reviews that say their set had soft metal parts that bent. The only thing I can think of is that their set came from a various manufacturer and perhaps their T-handle and thrust bolt (threaded part) was created of pot metal like so a lot of cheap tools from 10 or 20 years ago because every part in my set is amazing quality massive steel. The threads are smooth and precise.I haven't used the tools yet but I have examined them carefully and I know amazing tools when I see them. These are amazing tools. There is simply no method that the thrust bolt will strip or the T-handles will bend. In addition, the blow-molded case is very nice.I had watched a video where someone used a set related to this and they struggled to hold piston adapter on the thrust bolt assembly. It kept falling off. But I was pleasantly surprised to search that this tool has a magnetic base that the adapters fit onto. The adapters are held on firmly and will not fall I mentioned, there was a time when so a lot of inexpensive tools were created out of pot metal or otherwise so cheaply created that they were virtually useless, if not dangerous. But, happily, those days are past. There are still some cheap tools on the market, of course, but they are much less common these days. I started my large tool collection back in teh 1960s. During especially the 1970s, I would expect to pay well over $100 (in 1970s dollars) for a tool set of this type and quality. Today the prices can be amazing. You just have to be careful when you buy tools. I paid less than $22 for this tool set with free shipping and no taxes! If you had told me that I could do that 30 or 40 years ago, I would have thought you were tom line: This is a amazing value assuming you obtain the same set I have. A lot of products this day look identical but sometimes they come from various manufacturers so you may not keep the same thing that I received. But, if you do, you should be very happy.
5 stars for function and kit completeness. I've used this on a half dozen vehicles with amazing success. The only issue is the metal it's created with is definitely chineesium. I had a stuck caliper that I was trying to drive back and the sliding lever at the top used to generate leverage bent with ease. Not with hand force, I WAS cheating, but not by much. Don't allow that ruin this for you, its still a amazing set that will meet all your needs. If you need additional leverage to wind back a caliper, you're probably doing it wrong....like I was.
I like getting a tool with all the options. I replace all the brakes on my cars myself and had always used C clamps before. With more modern vehicles, it seemed time to up my android game and I never know when one car will have the wind back calipers. The tools seem very substantial and I am satisfied with the quality of the metal parts. The case is descent but could be better. Each piece pops into a holder spot that is marked for it. When I first opened it, several pieces were out of put sliding around the case. I figured the delivery workers can be rough on things so I clipped them all back in their places. The next time I opened it, 3 pieces were loose sliding around. The plastic is just a tad too thin to have the strength to keep them all in put but it does beautiful amazing as you carry it around. Overall, I am satisfied and would buy again if I required to.
Used on 2008 Volvo C70 rear brakes. I initially attempted the retract the piston by inserting the ends of a pair of huge needle nose pliers in the piston face detents while turning and pushing in at the same time but the piston would not budge. I ordered the 8milelake 21 pc kit because I wasn't sure if the smaller kit would have the important adapters (it turns out that the smaller kit would have been fine). Once I figured out the correct adapter (by trial and error) I was able to retract the piston although it took a fair amount of effort to begin off. The components seems well created and the blow molded case holds everything securely. The instructions could be a bit clearer and but overall I am happy with the value.
How often do you purchase something that pays itself off with one use? Could not have done the rear brake job on my Mazda 3 without this ce solid quality feel to the pieces in this kit. Love the compact case and the parts all snap into their respective compartments.
The largest problem is how stiff and course the ratchet mechanism is. You basically have to keep the parts (plates and threaded shaft) together by hand, so they don't move with the ratchet. Once there is a amazing deal of pressure on the plates, it will work as intended, but the same problem comes up when releasing the tension. Frustrating and somehow self defeating. Spend a small more and obtain a tool that actually works as intended.
I really didn't know what I was missing until I used this tool for the first time.Having done tons of brake jobs on private cars over the years and always "finding a way" to depress the caliper piston, using this small too saved me several mins and a amazing deal of hassle.If you work on cars, you definitely need this tool!
I bought this for my husband. Such a android game changer. Pushing the brake piston back into the bore was so much easier and faster with this tool. I highly recommend this product. It’s simple to use and very durable.
worked perfectly for 2014 Subaru Outback complete pad retraction...this vehicle has dual pistons in the front and a single POT in the rear....tool worked perfectly for both setups. this vehicle can also be difficult to achieve a complete retraction but this tool had the force important to achieve that....the ratcheting function was nice since I was not in a position to execute a full 360 spin...one more point, the retraction was simple to create square meaning this tool did not force the pistons back in at a skewed angle which isn't good; this tool may not be able to handle massive duty everyday use but is fine for the weekend mechanic's occasional use
2016 Outback. I bought it because you can't use the C Clamp way on them with the electronic parking brake. It didn't obtain nearly little enough to obtain between the caliper and the piston and no the brakes were not trashed. The pads still had 3mm on them so typical time to replace them. Maybe on a huge car they will work but it isn't like the Outback is a motorcycle or uncommon so it ended up being a waste of my money. I had to hit Harbor Freight for a various tool that cost $10 and did work at least.
This is a amazing tool to have for spreading caliper pistons back-in. My ratcheting part required WD-40 just to begin it working. One side of the tool has a "C" clip that keeps it on, but the other side which is basically a bolt that presses into the side plate. This side popped off and had to be spot welded and ground flat again. I was able to do this and it is now working fine. Maybe a fresh and improved ver will be available soon.
Ratcheting caliper piston was so easy and fast in pressing down my calipers like just ratcheting a bolt. Crank it down and your done. The best part is the larger caliper attachments which I haven’t use yet but amazing to have for those larger cars later eat purchase for the price.
The box it came in looks old, dirty and the end flap partially tore can tell it had been taped shut and someone chop it e tool has grease smudges on it from ying to use it, the ratchet will not work.I oiled it well and tried again. The only method it would work was to holdthe center part with a pair of pliers while you ratchet it to compress the is tool is suppose to create it easier but it does not.I would not recommend this at all.
I'm an automotive technician, i bought this for convenience, unfortunately i shouldnt have cheaped out. The construction is very flimisy, the ratcheting mechanism is poor and will disengage on its own or completly flip makeing you ratchet in the wrong direction, one of the rivets on the rachet handle is already coming off. Overall not worth it just spend a small more and youll obtain a quality tool. Saw the reviews but decided to give it a test , since ive bought abn tools in the past that were very good. Dont knock there other tools but definitely dont buy this one
It is beautiful simple to use but the design doesn't always fit into smaller calipers. When using the bigger plates the magnets do not keep very well. The first time one of the plates dropped the magnets flew out, which makes them even harder to use now. Overall it does what its supposed to but I want I would have spent a small more on a better designed tool.
Makes rubber swell up, causing sticking caliper tutorial pins. Obtain *silicon* caliper grease fore you buy, check online if one of your car's tutorial pins has a rubber bushing/sleeve on the tip. Not referring to the dust caliper clamped shut six months after I replaced the tutorial pins because the rubber sleeve swelled up inside the caliper bracket is product turned up when I searched for silicon caliper grease. It isn't! Re-reading now, it does say non-silicon, but not prominently two stars because the other caliper tutorial pin that is metal-on-metal without a rubber sleeve still slides OK. So it does work as a lubricant, but by far *not* a universal caliper grease product.
So about two years ago i replaced my brake pads and calipers and then over the summer I got a little vibration in my steering wheel noticeably i could feel it from the front drivers side tire and noticed my brakes would squeal when i came to a stop, and they were feeling spongy which i thought was weird. when i got home took the wheels off thinking maybe the caliper had some rust from the nasty Wisconsin winter, went through everything even bled all the brake lines with fresh fluid thinking that would support but didn't reapply copper anti-seize as there was still some on the pins, i just smeared it around. well needless to say it came back about 2 months later, and at this time the one pin on the drivers side was dry, i am honestly surprised it did not completely seize up on me, well all that aside i reapply anti-seize liberally, and figured i was done but my brakes still felt a small spongy. well i begin hearing it again this spring which was about 6-8 months after the two incidents happened and i obtain the wobble back in my steering wheel, totally thinking crap i am going to have to just redo the caliper at this point, i call up one of my amazing mates who is a ford master mechanic and he tells me to stop using the copper anti-seize oddly enough created by permatax and switch to either this or the Ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant as they seem to work much better, knowing i don't do brakes very often i just buy the small 5 oz. bottle to test it out, and for the latest 7 months i have seen better brake performance, and my brakes are no longer spongy, for the price i want i would have bought more, who would have though the anti seize was my issue all along .
FIRSTLY - it does look purple in the can, it dries blue, I'll post after pics. This is an obvious concern, and a few reviews here created me sketchy. Wet paint and dry paint don't always look the same people, especially when it's unique purpose paint with add-in activators.I used this a 2004 Mustang with Sonic Blue paint (one of the pics has part of the vehicle in it so you can see the compare of the blues for reference). G2 will send you a color swatch free in the mail from their website btw, that's what I did. I also copied it from thier website and used Image to put it on a pic of my vehicle to give me an idea how it'd the pack promptly, inspected it. It was packed like crap but unbroken. In the product box you'll search -A spray can of brake cleanerCan of paint, a small more than half full, this is so you have slush and mixing room.A glass vial of activatorA paint brush. [email protected]#$%!self isn't poor quality, but method to little for this use, it would take you all day!A Popsicle stick mixer, works structionsOther things you'll need and/or wish -Better brushes! I got 1 inch wood chip brushes locally for $7 cents each, I got several. These worked well, but be careful as the bristles come out easily and stick to the paint. I also got some smaller detail brushes for the small spot the bigger brushes couldn't hit.Tape, I used Scotch Blue Painters tape, worked oves, masks.A can of brake cleaner, just in case. I'm sure the one they give you will be enough if all you're doing is calipers. I think I went through about 1.54 cans. I actually used some Brakleen I already had on TIENCE! Seriously, take your time on the cleaning part, it'll be worth it!Can't thing of anything else I used that was specifically caliper paint 's how I did this...Read the instructions.Put the vehicle up on stands. The paint is only amazing for a few hours after you mix it so you can't really do one caliper at a time.I was painting my rotors, dust shields and wheels as well on this project, so I took the calipers off the car.I did not disconnect the lines, just placed them on boxes under the wheel eaned everything on the vehicle extremely well, steel brushing, sanding, steel wool, spraying, nce the calipers were off, I didn't worry about taping anything off for that part. (I taped and placed cals under paper when spraying the shields)Read the instructions - again!Mixed the paint and activator in can using the popsicle TES on color - IT LOOKS PURPLE IN THE CAN!!! It DOES turn blue as it dries, I'll post after int time! I did one light coat all around. I took time, about ten mins from begin to reach the first caliper again, which is the coat time, cond coat was a small heavier, filled in gaps missed on first ird coat, about the same heaviness of second, any heavier you'd have runs and urth, and final, coat. By this time, it was clearly blue in ree coats probably would have been fine. There's plenty of paint for more though, probably could've gotten a fifth nce I bought a ton of those 1 inch brushes, I'd used a fresh one for each low to dry overnight before nce I still had the rest of project to do, it was actually 2 days before I place anything together attention to your weather too. I started this in the morning, but being in San Diego, it got true hot, true fast. I did the whole project in about a week as a effect of the heat and sun.I place everything back together, wiped some grease of the calipers - that was awesome, it just wiped off cleanly with a towel!I choose to add a "Mustang" decal to my calipers, this would be the time to do so if you choose (for your vehicle of course).Remember to push your brake pedal a couple times before drive off. Enjoy!There are dozens of vids available for this, I watched a few, learned a small :)Also of note, I did smell some paint burning when driving the first few days, especially when braking hard. Not sure it this was the caliper paint or the rotors, or the heat/dust shield (I used a various black caliper spray paint and high heat spray paint paint for those).I'd definitely recommend this product if you wish a small additional class on your ride. It's been only a couple weeks since I applied it, but it still looks great! It's comes out a glossy medium blue. G2 also sells color coded paint too, for twice the price.
I've purchased this same brand of paint in a various color before and I've had amazing results. I think Silver or Grey in general is a hard color to work with in my experience. It's not very forgiving and it shows every imperfection. With that said, if you follow the instructions and thoroughly clean and prep your calipers before painting you will have exceptional results. Before painting the calipers create sure you have everything setup and ready to go because this paint does dry up fairly quickly. Follow the instructions when prepping the paint as well. However, when painting especially with this color I think the 15 min wait period in between every coat can be ignored. I would personally tip everyone painting with this color to test to take your time and apply even coats the first time around. Like others have stated the more coats you add the more the paint seems to begin to present scratches and imperfections. The trick is to really test to obtain the best looking finish on the first coat and after that only add small touch ups here and there. The instructions will tell you that there's enough paint for 3 coatings on all calipers which is true. However I wouldn't recommend more than 2 coats of paint if you can't obtain it right the first time. Overall I really like this brand they create amazing quality paint and the complete kit has everything you're going to need to obtain the job done. I agree with others that the brush is very cheap, but if you take your time and apply the paint carefully it will obtain the job done. I'm satisfied with the results of this project and highly recommend this caliper paint kit over other brands. The duplicolor paint kit is related to this one but the G2 brand is far superior in quality in my opinion. This silver color is really nice because it does give the calipers a cleaner and brighter look.
I bought this on the strength of the numerous raving 5 star nceptually, you crank the handle in one direction and the pads separate via a ratcheting mechanism. Flip the switch and ratcheting the handle in the other direction bring the pads together. The tool is a quality piece, created with massive gauge e major problem that prevents a 5 star rating is that there needs to be force applied to both pads in order for the ratchet to catch. For example, if you put the tool into the caliper with a partially retracted piston, you'd think that ratcheting the handle would expand the plates so that you could apply force to the piston. In practice, if the tool's plates are still a bit of a distance away from engaging the caliper and piston, you need to manually squeeze the plates together a bit in order for the ratchet to catch. This can be a pain if you are supporting the caliper with one hand already. The workaround is to extend the plates so that they are about the distance between the caliper and piston, so that there will automatically be force pushing the tool's plates together and so that the ratchet will work without any ere are a few other reviews that allude to this issue. One of them says that the is tool is amazing "when the teeth catch"; another says that the ratcheting mechanism "needs resistance on both plates to move them in and out." These observations are absolutely real and are an problem that limit the effectiveness of this 's still better than a C-clamp and old pads, or muscling pistons in by hand. But with the current ratcheting design issue, it's not an absolute 5-star tool.
No more messing with a c-clamp and pieces of wood! Granted this is a more expensive option to the cheaper alternatives, this thing feels quality. I've got a few other tools from Lang, and they're actually very nice. Created in the amazing ol USA! It feels like something Snap-On would literally rebrand with a custom handle and sell it for 220 bucks. It's got a beautiful amazing heft to it, but it works great! Completely resets my dual piston calipers evenly, so no more having to bleed the air out for uneven pistons and guesswork. I would recommend that, with ANY tool that has threads and applies pressure, like a ball joint press or vise, place some thick automotive grease on the threads. It lubricates and adds a thin barrier versus pressure wear on the threads, and extends the life of your tool significantly!
Skip the tool truck (Snap-On’s Bluepoint) and buy directly from the maker and save $$$.Lang is one of the brands a lot of tool trucks rebrand for an even higher tag ry handy tool when the zone allows for it. Doesn’t always fit if the caliper is little or the piston is too far out. Definitely more convenient than the conventional manual winding caliper tool.Ratcheting mechanism takes some time to obtain use to as it doesn’t always turn unless you keep the center still when it has slack (think of a turning a ratchet with a socket attached and having to sometimes grip the socket before you turn the ratchet again for the swing).I use this weekly in an automotive and it hasn’t allow me down other than if it didn’t fit!
Powerful - they will keep the heaviest brembo setup, not even a question. My strut springs would give first. Powerful Spring Steel - not the aluminimum of El ght - I have another set that aren't coated (these are) that weigh a TON compared to these.Powerful Amazing Value - Best thing for the cash to hang ditional gift points - they're bright GREEN, which is how I tag my tools... allow that rat test to walk with them, you can see them across the floor.
Don't hang that Harley caliper by the brake line, and forget that zip tie...get yourself a pair of these hangars! Nice smaller size with rubber caps on each end that will protect your precious paint & chrome. They fit right over an engine guard. Love the bright green powder coated finish too. BCR recommended!
This items covers well, just follow the directions & mask off locations you don't wish paint on. Regular painters mask tape works fine. Be sure the calipers are very clean, mix the 2 chemicals, & it takes 3 coats to do a amazing job. First coat will look bad, but don't worry. Be sure to allow it dry at least 15 mins between coats or you will obtain brush marks. And don't use the crap brush supplier with the kit, it sheds bristles all over. I got a home Depot little brush kit for $3.50 thatworked well. You have only a certain window of opportunity to do these once the reactor is mixed in with the paint, so plan accordingly! I topped the calipers off with white Brembo stickers, came out amazing in my opinion.
What I like:+ Easy to use+ Huge can of brake clean+ Amazing looking end resultWhat I don't:- Included paint brush is worthless- It is beautiful expensive for paint- Foam packing peanutsFairly easy well packed kit, paint, hardener, crappy paintbrush, decals and a lots of small messy foam ease hold in mind that this G2 Paint Kit only only one part of the entire painting process (the other is labor). If you've ever painted anything half decent you'll know that to obtain amazing looking results you wish to place a lot of effort into preparation. What this means if you'll wish to take your time getting your caliper surfaces spotless to give the paint a amazing surface to bond to. The kit contains a fairly huge can of brake clean to support you do just that. You'll wish to take a 3M Scotch Brite Massive Duty Pad (not included) and work it until the metal is spotless. My calipers went from a graphite gray to stainless steel gray after a few brake clean / scrub cycles. If you don't do this well you risk having paint flake off in the future forcing you to redo the portant note: Use proper respiratory protection, brake dust is nasty and you'll be kicking it up while cleaning and you certainly don't wish to breath it in. I used a 3M N95 (not included) particulate mask but recommend considering something stronger since the fumes from the solvents (brake clean + G2 paint) had me feeling beautiful nauseous by the end of the experience.Once you've cleaned and optionally masked your surfaces you obtain to the fun part; painting. Pour the entire small jar of hardener into the G2 paint, shake vinously and wait for it to bubble and begin applying. This starts a count down timer and leaving you with only 3 hours to finish. You should finish with plenty of time since you will probably spend a small over an hour coating all four corners (2 - 3 times). I *highly* recommend buying quality paint brushes because as soon as the hardener is mixed in with the paint it rapidly starts turning viscous and sticky the small paint brush that is supplied is poorly created and will not keep up as it gets thicker and stickier. I used some Behr's nylon paint brushes (not included) to give thin even e first coat of G2 is one of the most necessary and you should definitely heed the instructions and apply a thin coat. The instructions say to leave 15 mins between coats for drying time. This should be excellent for you to go around and paint the three other calipers and come back and do another coat. You can use a slightly heavier second coat to fill in gaps in coverage. I allow the second coat sit for a small bit longer and while the paint claimed to be self-leveling there were little ridges / rivers. I took a 3M 150 grit sanding block (not included) and smoothed those out. I added one extra thin coat to this and according to the instructions you're done. If you have decals this would be a amazing time to add them in. Otherwise the wait 2 hours and place your wheels back on. If you purchased scotch brite pads like me for prep you might as well take one (not the same one soaked in solvent b/c brake clean will hurt OEM clear coat) and clean the inside of the rims; clean rims support reflect light / glow that will enhance your freshly painted calipers. :)Important note: the instructions state you should give it 24 hours time to cure before driving, plan accordingly.
This tool is definitely worth the cash and it's cheaper here than at NAPA. They sell the same tool but it may have a K-D label.On this spreader, the steel tool pads stay parallel so you can easily press back single piston, dual piston or four piston brake calipers with it. The pistons don't bind since they're being pushed straight back into the caliper bore. There's no true effort required to move them back just put the tool in the caliper and ratchet the piston(s) out of the ter I used it the first time I really did want I'd bought it years can buy a tool for half as much or you can hold jamming caliper pistons back with c-clamps, channel lock pliers or pry bars but this is just too simple and you're far less likely to hurt the brake caliper by using this well created tool.
I just installed Power Stop brakes on my fresh to me 2007 Toyota Corolla S. When watching YouTube videos I tried to hold a list of all the things people said to buy in order to do the brake job. This is one of the products that kept popping up so I thought it must be good. When I went looking for reviews and saw all the 5 stars I knew I was on the right track.I used this items on the slide pins, under the brake clips, on top of the brake clips, on the ears of the brake pads and I covered the entire back of the brake pads with this items with no ill effects. I was unsure where all to use it (which is very stressful) but in the end I got it done. The fresh brakes have no squeals, shakes or rattles so I guess I did it right. I would definitely buy this lube again.
I am not a mechanic, but I did buy this product for my caliper slide pins which I'm assuming most buy this for as well. I did see the fine print that it's for metal-metal surfaces well after the fact. I think virtually every caliper pin has some rubber components (boot, bushing, etc) so this label is of of the deceptive/false advertising is this printed on their amazon page "assures that critical caliper pins, sleeves, BUSHINGS and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life." --the bushings is the interesting part. Bushings are RUBBER. This cannot be used for rubber so that is an outright lie. The directions say two various things.Other than that it seems to work amazing on the metal to metal. I am just irritated that I did not read the fine print, place this on my caliper slide pins 3 weeks ago, then realized I had to take the caliper pins out and thoroughly clean the pins & rubber boot with brake cleaner & a rag THEN apply the proper Silicone Paste to re obvious directions please.
I want I could go back and kick myself. I've wrestled with C-clamps for a decade or more and now I search this stupid , crappy, [email protected]#$% tool and all of a sudden calipers begin like legs on prom night. An absolute must for brake jobs, makes changing the brake pads fast and easy. I'd buy 3 or 4 if it were t it, your knuckles and time will love you for it.
These are a must have if you don't wish to crimp your brake hoses while doing you brakes. I've been using bungee cords for over 25 years and their junk compaired to this method... I want that I had stumbled across these a long time ago.
I'm not huge on car mods. I'm also not not particularly handy when it comes to cars, so the thought of doing anything that involved the brakes on my vehicle scared me quite a bit. I watched a lot of videos on how to paint calipers to obtain comfortable with the process and create sure I knew what I was doing. I also looked at the different options (spray paint vs. brush painting) as well as reading reviews on the different products and manufacturers. In the end, it seemed that G2 was the best fit for me and I'm very glad I created the decision.I chose to paint the calipers on my fresh Audi A6 during a stretch of days in January that averaged in the high 50's and low 60's. Even the company warns that you should only apply the paint between 56 and 70 degrees F. Given I was in the ideal temperature range, I dove right in!Given my vehicle was brand fresh (2017), I didn't need to spend a significant amount of time to clean the calipers as they were already beautiful clean. I did, however, focus on taping and masking off the parts of the wheel that must not/cannot be painted. I also purchased artists brushes that work with enamel paints. I did read that the brush that comes with the kit can shed. I honestly didn't see that, but never gave it the possibility and used my brushes anyway.I was able to add four coats of paint to my calipers. The first coat took some time and was a light coat. The latest coat gave it a final, smooth finish. I chose black to match the black-out look I was going for with my A6.I didn't have any issues applying the paint. There were times when loaded too much paint on the brush and it dripped, but I was able to fix it easily. I waited at least 15 mins between coats. Truth be told, I purchased two kits. It was impossible for me to place my car up on four jack stands, so I was only able to raise one wheel up at a time. I would paint one caliper, allow it sit for 2 hours, then place the wheel on and move to the next wheel. I have heard that some people have successfully chop the paint and the hardening agent in half to save for later. I didn't chose to do that as I feared I'd not have the right amount of hardener to paint and eventually the paint would fail. Once all four wheels were completed, I waited two days to cure. G2 says wait 24 hours, but the temperature in my garage dropped at night below 56 degrees so I wanted to give it more curing time.Once cured, I took the wheels off again and applied high-heat transfer stickers to the caliper to finish the look. I am very happy with the results and would recommend this product to anyone - as long as you have the time to devote to the cleaning, prep and painting as required.
I used this paint on 4 sets of calipers over the past 14 years and can tell you that it is very durable will not chip under most conditions. The only time it chipped was after a mechanic chipped a caliper when putting on one of my wheels. The paint holds it's color and is very durable.If you can remove a tire, you can paint your calipers. I don't have a lift so the method I've applied it in the past is to remove each wheel one at a time and prep (clean and tape) each caliper. After that, I go around the vehicle removing each wheel to place a coat of the paint on and then putting the wheel back on the vehicle and moving to the next wheel. For the latest coat, I remove the tape so that I can paint over any locations that were a bit over-taped and present any locations on the caliper that need to be painted. It is a bit time-consuming but it works e paint itself hardens after a few hours so you have to apply it in one setting. I've applied it on cool days and on hot days. It will not harden nearly as quick if it is cool out so you should do it when it isn't very hot out. The kit comes with enough paint to do at least 3-4 coats per caliper. The latest time I used it, I sed much of the paint (UGH) after only putting on 1 coat per caliper. I continued applying it and had just enough for 3 coats. This was on a 2016 Mazda CX-7 with what I assume are average sized e paint can be cleaned up with mineral spirits but you have to do it beautiful promptly before it e kit comes with a brush that is usable but does not let precise painting, so consider buying a smaller brush for hard to reach e paint hardens into a very hard surface that is much harder than an ordinary paint. I have never detected any fading. It is amazing items and it lasts.
This was definitely not an simple task to apply and when people say it takes all day they are not kidding. My project was my wife’s 2016 Mustang GT. I found 1 video on YouTube applying this paint on a related Mustang and the guy basically said he would not do it again if he had it to do again. He said that instead he would take off the calipers and obtain them powder coated. It wasn’t worth the time and effort and I almost would agree. I learned from his mistakes and instead of painting them still installed on the vehicle I removed the brake pads and the calipers with them still connected to the hoses of course but I pulled them loose so I could obtain to them and paint all sides. Only have 4 to 6 hours once you mix the paint with the activator until the paint is no longer usable. So create sure you have all of your prep work done and everything taped off because the paint does obtain everywhere. Also due to the size of the front calipers I purchased a 1 inch brush from Home Depot which is a must. They basically supply an acid brush in the kit to use as a paintbrush. I did use this for the little detail locations and crevices. Another small trick I did was I had some heat shrink tubing that I used for the bleed valves to hold paint off of them. I ended up putting three coats all the method around until I ran out of paint. It got difficult to remember where you had latest painted on the calipers after you apply the second coat. It definitely looks amazing and we will see how long the finish lasts.
When used correctly, this items simply can not be beat. It works. After thoroughly cleaning slide pins and applying this lube, this items has saved a lot of customer calipers from otherwise certain r all those that are leaving negative reviews because this product swelled rubber components.... READ THE PACKAGE BEFORE LEAVING NEGATIVE REVIEWS. It specifically says for METAL TO METAL CONTACT AREAS ONLY. Don't leave negative reviews because you couldn't read or follow directions. This items is simply awesome when APPLIED PROPERLY
My father and I do a lot of brake work(and other mechanical work) for people who go to my parents church. Its volunteer work mostly for older folk who are on fixed incomes who cant afford the crazy high fees that a "real" garage would charge them. The vehicle owner buys the required parts and we volunteer our time to install those parts. So we do a LOT of brakes and bought this grease to support us do the jobs right. This items is amazing and the price is right. Helps create us look good. Lube up caliper sliders to prevent sticking and uneven wear and place some on the back of pads to reduce the possibility of chatter. If all you do is your own brakes every couple of years then you dont need to buy a bottle of this stuff. Just obtain a couple of little squeeze tubes of it at your local auto supply. But if you do even several brake jobs a year then grab a bottle of this.
So simple to use , stress freeI can't believe it took me this long for a tool that can do the job without damaging the caliper pistons .Is a small tricky to keep the plates from he press bc they rotate if not enough initial pressure versus the caliper, once u mastered this simply step, everything after that is just easy.I do little increments at the Time to let the fluid going back to the reservoir.An perfect buy
If you've ever tried replacing pads/shims on huge massive SUV calipers, you know how bersome they can get. These were a handy help so I could have 2 full free hands to finish the only con is that the rubber coating started wearing off immediately after the first use, but that's not really a deal breaker since I wasn't worried about marring the finish of some "show calipers."
This is one of those easy tools I should have bought years ago. I did a brake job latest night (same day I received them) and they worked perfectly to keep the caliper securely up and out of the way. They are very sturdy, much more so than the product image shows. The metal is about .25" steel and has a massive yellow powder coating. I appreciate the yellow color because I'm likely to message it before putting the wheel back on (I've left a black bungee in the wheel well that was holding up a caliper).Great product from Mission! Highly recommend if you are doing brake work.
So, I ordered these as part of a fast order--I like the yellow coating, and I thought someone said Created in ey did the job, but--for $10, created in China? These are probably $1 at best. So, value is low. Sell them for $5, value goes to 5 star. Otherwise, you can search other USA created hooks on Amazon for related so, after one use, the (powder?) coating is already coming off. So, again--made in China, who knows what it is.
These caliper hangers are awesome, very sturdy, diameter is thin enough to where you can search multiple spots on the caliper or bracket to hang out of the way, had one pair of these before and lent them to a co worker who forgot them on a vehicle, it happens.. ive used matco tools ver which work but i have found they dont hold their shape on massive caliper assemblies but these will not budge!!
I like everything about these. I hanged huge ole 1 ton dual piston calipers with these and they don't strain at ey are fast and simple to use. They are bright yellow so you don't miss them or forget them. You don't worry about being clubbed in the head while doing a brake job.....Nice!Wish I had bought them decades ago.
This is a amazing kit. Comes with everything you need. The brush isn't the greatest but useable. I only required this for one pair of front Mustang cobra calipers. I ended up doing 5 coats and still had plenty to do another set if needed. The finish is amazing. It's hard to imagine getting this amazing of a finish with a rattle can. I did a bit of research before choosing this kit, and I'm glad I did.
I was a brake tech for a while at a local Meinekes and would obtain dual and quad piston calipers in a lot so i finally ponied up for this puppy and allow me tell you something; this thing is @#$%. Never met a caliper it wouldn't fit in. And I love the rathetching device. Would and do highly recommend.UPDATE:JUN22-2019It's still @#$%. Have had zero complaints with it and have set to see one like it. Amazing product. Would definitely buy again.
Where has this been all my life!? I don't know how or why I hadn't bought one of these before. I've spent nearly 20 years doing my own brake pad and rotor swaps and always used fingers or a c-clamp to push the pistons back in. Working with some fancier 4 piston Brembo calipers I decided to avoid the c-clamp and buy this tool so I didn't scratch the paint on the is tool is so simple to use and so simply effective in its job that I feel like an idiot for not buying one 20 years ago. As has been said it does require load / pressure versus the face in order to engage the ratchet mechanism in or out, but that just means that you squeeze it for the first few cranks until it makes contact with the pads or pistons and then just crank. When you're done you flip the switch and change the direction, give it one pull on the handle, and it's free to remove from the calipers. Then just squeeze it with your hand to apply the light pressure needed to close it back up for the next brake e front calipers on my vehicle are quite dumb. Had to compress the pistons all the method it before I could remove the metal spring piece that pushes down and keeps the pads in place. Then I required to place the pads back in, mount the caliper, and hit the brake pedal to obtain the pistons back out so I could remove the damaged dust boots and install fresh ones. Once done I had to press the pistons back in before I could obtain that metal spring back in place. Probably saved me 20 mins per corner over using a c-clamp.
Lang Tools 279 Brake Caliper Press .. Where have you been all my life?I purchased the Lang Tools 279 Brake Caliper Press for changing all 4 rotors and brake pads on a 2010 Acura TL AWD. For the past 20 years, I have always used the tried and real "C-Clamp" technique when changing brake pads on all my cars ... but this tool makes the job much easier ... especially with quad pistons. The ratcheting action is smooth and simpler to operate. The heady duty press plates distribute the pressure to the caliper pistons evenly. No more fumbling around with clumsy C-clamps and metal and/or wood spacers or cheap caliper presses -- this caliper press is the only one for feature request for a future ver of this tool. It would be helpful to be able to have a mechanism where I could easily attach/detach the handle. Once pressure is holding back the caliper pistons, it would be nice to detach the handle to obtain it out of the method while leaving the press in place. For fast brake pad changes this method not been necessary, but for longer jobs ... rotor replacement/resurfacing, bearing repacking, etc it would be nice to have the press and caliper left in put without the handle dangling around in the way. Just a thought ..
So I fix vehicles and always doing brakes and rotors and u wish the caliper to be secure safe and not drop and damaged to brake lines and the brake lines are part rubber so I was looking for a caliper holder and found these and man I love it u hang it up on the spring and strut and u can shake bag do what ever u need to obtain the job done and it doesn’t affect anything and it’s out of your method amazing product for handyman
These come out of the pack looking really nice. However, just doing some mock hanging under my wheel wells (without a brake caliper hanging from them), to see how they would work, I discovered that the green paint got scratch off almost immediately. I guess I was expecting the green color to be more of a softer rubber-like covering over the metal hanger. That being said, they will work amazing for what they are designed to do, which is to hang the brake caliper and hold the tension off of the brake lines.
Works very well and a nice finish on the hooks. I bought these to replace a various set that were several years older and not as nice which had a smaller opening and didn't work well on larger size cars but these fresh ones work great.
Ultimately I'm glad I went with this product over an aerosol based caliper paint solution. While I almost took one star off for the not good quality paint brush that is included and the fact that this is a small harder to obtain a amazing clean finish out of your paint job if you don't mix the paint CONSTANTLY as you're applying it and apply it sparingly and with lots of patience. These are all things that can be easily r instance, the not good quality brush looses some of it's bristles almost from the obtain go. If you tug on the end of the bristles and play with it, most of the loose bristles will come out almost immediately improving your chances of not getting one loose and stuck on the paint as you paint the caliper. The fact that you don't need a primer is excellent. However, don't allow that fool you, you still need to properly clean the caliper and remove any previous paint or finish if you wish to this look right and have a higher possibility of sticking properly. Also the fact that this paint requires an activator makes it stronger and more durable in my opinion. But you need to constantly be mixing it as you're applying it, not just initially after pouring in the activator into the paint. This keeps it from coagulating and causing uneven app of the paint unless you're interested in wet sanding and polishing it later to a brilliant shine which is otherwise not so, this kit comes with everything you need to do this job. Enough paint to paint 4 calipers at least 3 coats each. The paint comes in a container huge enough to mix without sing or even risk of sing as you mix. Activator so the paint is only ready to be applied when you're ready to do this job. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to aid in cleaning the calipers prior to painting. Paint brush that is usable though you need to either obtain your own at Home Depot or Lowes or prep this one as stated above. A Popsicle stick for mixing. And instructions as well as a G2 decal if you wish to use lying this paint is straight forward, maybe easier than an aerosol spray paint. But you do still need to take your time and be very careful how you apply it thinly but in multiple coats to obtain everything amazing and not obtain runs or orange peel. I do think this paint will end up being stronger than the aerosol type of paints and protect versus brake dust and other street grime and the environment in general. So I rated this product 5 stars despite it's few weaknesses. I would definitely buy again and highly recommend.
I've used this items on all our brake calipers so far. Red, black, and silver. Silver I would suggest spraying because if not you see brush strokes. Red came out looking amazing on my truck, and black thus far is the most gloss out of all of them. It is ALL in the prep work.Every time I have taken a wire wheel on a angle grinder and completely stripped all the crap off the calipers... I feel like this is KEY!! If you just spray the brake clean you are asking for problem a couple years down the street as it will peal.Overall I would say if you have the opportunity and the time to clean your calipers properly and have time to allow them sit and cure this is a amazing way to create your calipers look better.I have found that the 24 hr cure time is incorrect. On all three vehicles I found that it takes roughly 48hrs for the paint to fully cure. After 24 hours I can still take my finger nail and leave a depression in the paint. That tells me it's not ready and I would NOT drive the vehicle for fear that the heat and the brake dust would then obtain embedded in the paint and you'd never be able to clean them right or create them look nice short of re-doing the entire job.Other than that, use a various paint brush because they are garbage with what is included in the packaging. I tried a foam brush and that was horrible too... Go to a huge box store.. But the 97 cent brush and then take scissors and chop the bristles down by half. You have a firm brush and you don't waste the product by it being absorbed by the long bristles..
I bought this 2 years ago to safe cash and now I'm just done replacing 4 calipers on our car. Why on earth do they create a brake lube that is not rubber/plastic safe???In the future, I will use this product on metal to metal only or just dispose of it and obtain something that works.........
I am so sick and tired of going to pep boys for that little tube of brake grease everytime I do a brake job for myself or a friend. I asked if they have anything bigger and the respond was always nope. Well, now I am so satisfied I have found what will hopefully be a lifetime supply for me on here. This items works amazing and FINALLY, I don't have to go ping everytime I do a brake job!
This grease is suitable for metal to metal contact points only. I'm giving it a 1 star review because the packaging does not state this and even says to use on rubber boots and seals! The marketing is doing people a disservice here and putting lives in danger. The packaging needs to clearly state metal parts only.If you use this on most rubber brake parts, they will swell to 2x their normal size after some time. If your calipers have metal pins that slide inside of rubber sleeves, the brakes will seize up beautiful badly eventually. I fought my brakes for a few years before coming to the realization that the Permatex grease was swelling the rubber bushings and binding up my calipers. The purple ceramic Permatex grease swells rubber too. Permatex does create a rubber safe red silicone based grease or you could use Sil-Glyde.
The first one I received was seized up and broke when I tried to use it. Being a technician for a lot of years, however, I understand that sometimes there are defects and that doesn't necessarily mean the product is not good quality. The exchange process was very simple and without hassle. I now have a functioning, ratcheting caliper press that I couldn't be happier with. This tool works well and fits most calipers. My hands do not obtain fatigued from the constant squeezing or turning of other press tools, and the pistons retract straight every time.
I am a professional auto mechanic and I have been using coat hangers for years but decided to grab this set. Will work perfectly to hang caliper while doing disk brake work. Using these protects the brake lines from stretching while changing pads. High quality and very sturdy for supporting caliper. Never allow them hang from the line.
I have always used C clamps to spread my brake pistons and decided to test these instead. I want I had these a long time ago. This tool created my life so much easier. I would recommend this to anyone getting ready to do a bake job.
MADE IN CHINA 🇨🇳. And not the amazing China that being Taiwan. For the same price I could have gotten a created in USA version. Very disappointed and sure this will fail on me when I most need it. Even the packing is deceptive stating San Francisco on it (ha as if manufacturing happens in San Francisco), yet created in China in smaller print. I should have known better. Understandable method less clever reviewers mislead me.
These brake caliper hangers are incredible! In the past, I’ve hung brake calipers on pieces of coat hanger or a piece of wire twisted around a coil spring. I bet you have, too. Not a very mechanical method to do a brake job. After buying these super strong, dimensional stable caliper hangers, a brake job is now so much more enjoyable because the caliper with delicate hydraulic hose attached is now safely stowed away.
Amazing brake caliper hanger S-Hooks. They are excellent when I use the on the vehicle brake lathe. I use them anytime I remove a brake caliper & need it securely held out of the way. They let you to help the caliper out of the way, while not putting excessive stress on the brake hose. I mostly will hook to the strut spring, but they will hook on almost anything. They are sturdy enough to keep any size caliper & the bright yellow color makes them hard to leave on the car. I've had them over a year & have used them tons of times without a single need these if you do any kind of brake or suspension work on a regular basis. They will hold the caliper from falling & possibly damaging the brake hose, or your these & you wont be sorry. Recommended for any auto technician or weekend - arbez
Being a redneck through and through, the possibilities are endless with these S-hooks. They are of amazing construction, very strong. They are currently employed holding up my backpack for my toolbox. This may not sound like much, but when you consider that I carry 5 tool catalogs, multiple tools, a flashlight, water, and my notebooks in my backpack, it shows what these are actually capable of. I've noticed no deformation, no loss of the powdercoating, and no signs of giving up. definitely worth it for the cash even if you only use them to do your own brakes
Works as designed to do but unlike the ad where it states it is powder coated, the set I received was spray painted and will not keep up to the tests of use where a real powder coated unit would have no issues. If brake fluid gets on to these and allow to stand any set of time the paint in that zone will be removed from the hook. Again this does not affect is usability but does create it easier to loose due to no longer being brightly covered. This is how one of my mates ended up with one hook, because it was left hanging on strut spring because the color was no longer on the hook anymore.