Read dometic 91367 circuit board reviews, rating & opinions:Check all dometic 91367 circuit board reviews below or publish your opinion.
100 Reviews Found
This is a amazing wallpaper! I especially love the brightness control. I wish a live wallpaper that exists and people can see its live. But one that doesn't blend in with the application icons and bothers your eyes. This wallpaper doesn't disappoint!
Thanks very much for making this fresh app, I got the first 1 why you're so go it's amazing I like it I just bought another 1 I like it also but I like this 1 better it's updated 4 January of 2013 and it works really amazing with my fresh Motorola Droid Razr Maxx HD! Hold up the amazing work you're doing a amazing job! :-)
Excellent, works a lot better than picture paper to transfer toner onto PCB. The results are great. Tip: create sure to place pressure with the iron while doing the transferring of your design to the PCB for better results.
These work beautiful well. I had a few of them skew in the printer, but overall works well if you can manage to obtain enough toner on ke sure you change the printer settings to obtain as much toner on as possible
Product would not print the photo properly on the sheet. Only bits and pieces of the photo printed. I tried several sheets. I used a Brother HL-2270DW laser printer with a new factory toner cartridge, TN-450. The toner will not uniformly transfer to the smooth (glossy) side of this material. It prints fine on the rough paper side but cannot be used to do heat transfer to copper clad boards. The Brother printer cannot be used with these sheets for their designed intent. The seller should have published that these sheets do not work in some laser printers. If anyone knows of an after-market toner that works in a brother printer that will work properly on heat transfer sheets please [email protected]#$%!. I should note that the printer works fine in printing onto laser image paper of all kinds and on laser transparency sheets as well as inkjet transparency sheets. I printed on several of the transfer sheets and took a image of the best I could do. Hopefully, the image photo transferred to this website ok and one can see the difference between the photo formed on the yellow transfer sheet and a laser transparency print (white background). They both printed at 1200 dpi resolution set on the printer. These were printed on Nov. 20, 2019
I thought this paper worked fine. It took me a few tries to obtain it right, but after 3-4 attempts I got a amazing transfer. I did heat my paper so hot the plastic coating transferred with the carbon as well. I think if i heat less, the shiny coating will not transfer. See the photo for my results. Here's what I did1. print on the shiny side2. steel wool copper surface well and wipe with acetone3. tape the paper to the PCB board to prevent movement4. obtain the iron as hot as it will go5. iron until plastic appears to begin "bleeding through" (note this may be too much)6. Peel off paper when PCB board is warm7. Etch using you preferred chemicals (I used 1:2 muriatic acid/hydrogen peroxide)8. clean off imprint using acetone (since my shiny items transferred as well, i had to steel wool the toner off)Hope this helps
Worked as expected. I printed a circuit and ironed it onto my copper board for etching. I have since seen that you can use coated magazine paper for the same thing so I will eventually give that a test but this definitely works
I've tried this paper in two various photocopiers so far and neither of them will take it. When it recognizes the paper at all it jams every time. Also it's 8.5 x 12 and need to be trimmed to a standard paper size. I'm going to test using a carrier sheet next but it's been frustrating to test to use so far
So, ok... First off, I've been doing boards since I was uhhhh 14? I'm 49 now, so I've seen a lot with PCB fabrication. I've used Sharpie, tape, decals, photo-resist, and of course, toner. I've even worked in a put that created PCBs the industrial way. Out of all this, toner is my first choice because it's as dirt and all the other methods have their ing with toner, I've used glossy laser paper, magazine paper, clear cutter machine vinyl, and now this paper. Believe it or not, my two favorites are now the vinyl movie and this paper. Vinyl actually works very well, you'd be surprised, but it can't do miracles any more than this paper can, and thus you'll still have printer and laminator/iron issues.On my first try, I don't think the laminator was hot enough, and my print along the edge of the PCB cracked and moved a teeny bit in places. The traces came out fine to the eye except for one very little crack in one put across the entire board, and since it was in a pad it didn't matter. I etched the resulting board straight away in 1 part hydrochloric + 2 parts hydrogen peroxide, and in a shocking 5 minutes it was done. Only one issue - all of the artwork pitted a bit. This is NOT the fault of the paper, not even the fault of the laminator that i use, really. It's the easy fact that laser printers generally don't create a solid coating of toner, period. They print documents, bro, it's what they're actually , the board is going to work, since the pits don't extend through the whole foil thickness. It just isn't very pretty. I've noticed that this paper is a bit more translucent than normal paper, so next time I'm going to print two copies of the art, laminate the first, and use registration marks in the artwork to mount and laminate the second copy over the first. With a small luck, it won't drift out, and I'll obtain a much better etch due to the 2x thickness of the toner transfer. I'll come back and allow you all know how that went.I like this items so far. Any way that works the first time, pits or not, has a lot of promise. Once you work out your method, I think this paper will treat you very well.Rick NR417
When transferring the toner to the metal, 95-99% of it transfers all the way, some of it doesn't. Definitely the paper and metal need to cool almost to room temperature, at least, in to peel the yellow paper off, without the toner getting stuck in between deciding to stay on the metal, or go with the paper.When I do obtain mostly amazing transfers, I search that some sort of goo, that seems to be invisible to my eye, is also transferring to the metal, because the nice cleaned, polished metal that isn't under the toner, seems to resist etching, just like the toner part.I would probably have given this a '2 stars' because mostly it's wasted a lot of my time, but it _is_ cheap, and if I can obtain it to work, then we'll be at an even 3 stars.Leaving the iron on for a longer time, much longer, makes the paper brittle and flaky, and it really doesn't wish to transfer, per is beautiful thin an sensitive - if you rub it very much, it'd going to wear - still working on temperatures (which I measure off the yellow paper with a IR thermometer), times, pressures, surface roughnesses, etc. It's like I'm on the edge of it working, but it's not working yet.I'm applying the toner to flat aluminum bar stock, and flat steel plates. I'm utilizing & attempting different chemicals to etch (metal) without the toner popping right off. Toner on metal seems to be beautiful fragile, too, so concentrated lye popped the design right off, first 5 seconds of etching Al. Having more luck with more dilute lye. Ferric chloride leaves an uneven surface finish on aluminum if brushed on. HCl, citric acid - tend to etch ok, but the toner still likes to fall off if you look at it y just have to go with some other solution, toner's not very thick anyway, it's not a amazing deep-etch resist. Which is what I'm trying, not a easy PCB.
I was originally worried about this product after looking at some reviews that said the paper would jam or melt in their laser printers, however I took a possibility on it anyway. It worked exactly as expected in my home Canon MF232W printer (though I did tape a regular piece of paper to the back of the PCB transfer paper as a kind of carrier and to add some thickness). The printer didn't jam at all, toner came out exactly as it was supposed to and the transfer to my piece of aluminum worked great. I never tried it without a carrier but, considering how smooth everything went, I'm thinking it should probably work just as good.I think some of those other reviewers were maybe using a Brother laser printer as I have read from multiple websites that those printers use a unique kind of toner that requires a higher temperature which doesn't even work with the name brand Press and Peel Blue transfer paper. In any case, I will definitely be using this paper again to transfer photos and text to metal. I just want I could adjust the toner density on my printer, though that is no fault of the product obviously (just a suggestion for first time users to do so if possible).
Zero stars. Paper refused to pick up on 2 printers (yes, I set them to A4 settings) and on the 3rd printer, it picked up, then proceeded to wrap around the back roller and fuse itself to the roller. Now I'm in the shop for a fresh printer. Maybe this wouldn't have happened if I'd used a backer paper......but that should have probably been a step outlined in what they laughingly call their directions, if that was the case.
The best that I could say about this Radio Shack Circuit Board Etching Kit kit was that it did come with a blank copper PCB so it wasn't a total loss. In addition, I did somehow manage to create up a fresh 1.125" x 0.5625" sensor board for my Heathkit flood alarm. However, it took a huge part of the afternoon to do it, and about 2/3 of the long stencils that came with the kit. No matter how carefully I would test to apply the long stencils onto the copper face of the board, those stencils would break apart like putty. People, don't expect to create any sizable circuit board with this kit as that's simply not going to happen. Do yourself a favor, and find elsewhere!
It works as expected, and is of amazing quality. The plastic coating seems like it will latest for some time. They are a bit stiff, and require a bit of intent to tweeze the IC's I'm using them on.
Water heater would not run on propane. I was able to light the propane with my BBQ lighter but flame went out within 5 seconds. I first tried replacing the $19 igniter/flame sensor but still had the same issue. I ordered the board, replaced it in 5 mins and everything works again.
I have a mixed product evaluation about the circuit board on a two week old Atwood water electric gal 10e a replacement for the 9e. I went to all kinds of issues with the initial seller Factory RV. I finally, ordered a fresh board and replaced the board in few [email protected]#$%!& the switch and the heater worked. I think only a opinion that the board has a electrical design flaw. The 2 amp fuse should have caught any electrical issues with interference to the resistors on the board. At 138.17 it is a concern to reorder (outofpocket) and then contact Dometic to obtain refund. That is another can of worms.
Water heater was not working in our 2015 Leprechaun. I checked the 140 degree thermostat switch, the inline TCO, and the ECO (180 degree emergency chop off) switch. All of them tested good. Still would not fire up on electric or propane. It would sometimes attempt to ignite, but no gas flow and hence, no flame. Looking at different boards, found this one to be physically the same as original, although as noted in other reviews, some tops of a few components are no longer epoxy dipped. This may be a design change to improve heat dissipation of certain components that were prone to heat fatigue. There is still nothing exposed that could be damaged or corroded by weather. In the image above, mine did come with the connection adapter and two replacement board mounting screws though I didn’t require either of the two. This was a direct plug in replacement for my original board and the propane fired right up. I’m only giving 4 stars at the moment because I can’t attest to the longevity of this part. But it certainly worked fine out of the box and takes about 5 mins to swap out. The images from left to right are, original board next to adapter included with fresh board, original board with P/N label in view, and fresh board installed. So if all goes well, my wife will literally be a, “happy camper” due to having a working water heater.
Was told it would be a 6-week wait at my Camper service put where I bought my camper to obtain a warranty replacement for this part... Read a lot of forum complaints about this part being defective on brande fresh 2018 and 2019 campers and trailers.I was quoted a twice the of this part... came in overnight.. super quick I was concerned it looked a small bit deifferent...installed it and crossed my fingers... Electric And Gas both work now (Gas would not ignite) very satisfied indeed now that my Camp out this past weekend to attend my sister's wedding was not jeopardized by not being able to quickly heat water for a shower
Hot showers again! Not only does this company provide prompt shipping, but their technical help was invaluable in diagnosing and resolving issues with my RV Water heater. They’re definitely a amazing resource for technical info in a prompt shipper of their perfect product. I strongly recommend this supplier.
This is one of the cheapest chip pullers I have ever felt. The first time I went to use it, the ends folded out with the slightest pressure. I was unable to use them to pull a chip and had to resort to a flatblade screw driver. Utter junk. Do not buy.