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100 Reviews Found
I’ve been using JB for over 40 years now whenever I required to create a massive duty repair that I wish to latest a lifetime. I love how the packaging hasn’t changed since I first bought it in the 70s. That requires confidence in your product when you don’t have to hold repackaging with NEW AND IMPROVED! plastered on the packaging. I guess it might also be because you can’t improve something that’s already perfect.If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If it is broke, fix it with JB Weld. (I should them that line, beautiful amazing huh?)
As a Mechanical Engineer I had occasion to use or try virtually every adhesive known to man. Each type has a beautiful well defined set of uses. There is a seemingly endless dozens of epoxies, but, out of all of them, I have not found one that can match the performance of JB Weld. I am awed each time I use it. It will bond nearly anything with a strength unequaled by others. However, there is one feature that may be a deterrent for some jobs. It is black. The iron powder in its compound provides its bond strength but its color, and may not look so amazing where aesthetics are important.
One leg of my 20 year old stainless steel hot pot pot handles has been detached from the pot for some time and I have been researching for welding or smoldering solutions. Almost all known solutions are either too expensive or not realistic. I don’t wish to replace this pot yet, because the newer pots on shop nowadays are either too smaller or too shallower for my family. I finally came across this product here and felt it may be a and excellent solution to the hot pot handle loose issue - the bonding needs to be very powerful and heat tolerant; this product has claimed to be exactly like that (bond stronger than steel and holds up to 550F). I place the material on to the loose handle leg as instructed, waited for 24 hours and tested with gas flames from bottom and boiling water inside. It worked wonderfully! I then applied the glue to all three remaining handle legs to reinforce them. Now all the handle legs felt really sturdy! I am sure now my hot pot pot will latest for another 20 years! Salute to this product!Update - after two hot pot cooking the welding joint broke away from the pot. So I guess this material can’t stand the cooking temperature, which I estimated around 230F. Sad.
This product was excellent for my application. I had to attach a metal picture frame wire to the back of a ceramic tile in to hang the tile on a wall. I used the JB Weld 8265S according to the pack directions and it worked very well. Since this product is warranted at a tensile strength of 3960 psi and my tile weighs 8 oz, I think it may have been a bit of overkill. (I estimate that each side of the wire was covered by about 0.5 square inches of the mixture to a depth of about 1/8".) This epoxy is the recommended bonding product for metal to ceramic. I made a little 1/4" diameter loop on each end of the wire to increase the bonding area. It is necessary to clean the two surfaces with acetone or alcohol to remove all grease. The metal needs to be abraded with a file to make a rough surface. The ceramic was unglazed on the back and therefore was already rough and porous. The two components of the product must be mixed very thoroughly and in 1:1 proportion by volume. It takes 24 hours to obtain a complete note is worth mentioning: the material dries to a dark gray color and is not suitable if aesthetic considerations are important. Since the wire and the epoxy were on the back of the tile, this was not a issue for this ere are two very useful www services for finding the right adhesive for different applications. The first one can be found by searching for thistothat adhesive. It makes recommendations based on the two materials to be bonded. Another amazing resource is a one page Powerpoint presentation on the MIT website, downloadable as a PDF. Search it by searching for MIT D-Lab_Learn-It_Adhesives. Also, JB Weld has very helpful customer help to support you choose among their a lot of products.
I bought this to fix an exhaust hanger bracket that broke under my vehicle (canister hanger), other option would to have taken my vehicle somewhere to obtain it spot welded, vehicle is old and I didn't feel this was worth it. Someone told me about J-B Weld, so I did some research and went with this option. First time user, was beautiful simple, but a small messy. Overall the hanger bracket seems like it is holding, but only time and exhaust vibrations will tell.
WHEN TO USE EPOXY CEMENTWhen you need a powerful rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice. Most epoxies dry with small running or shrinkage, and so are amazing for filling gaps. The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in little batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe--but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in harden to maximum strength.WHEN TO USE JB-WELDJB-Weld is a very powerful epoxy cement. JB-Weld is the cement/glue of choice when joining metal parts or filling holes in metals. Otherwise, ordinary epoxy cement or other types of cements/glues are usually better choices. Some other reviewers have complained that the descriptive name "weld" is inappropriate---to some extent that's true. JB Weld can do some jobs welding can't. Conversely some easy welding jobs like joining two thin metal rods at right angles are difficult with JB TO USE JB-WELDGeneral Principles: Although JB WELD makes an perfect filler---and can even be used to cast little parts, it is not remotely as powerful as true metal used this way. Whenever possible, use JB WELD as an adhesive---a very thin layer of JB WELD holding two pieces of metal together. Always reinforce with metal pieces when possible. For example, rather than building up a heavy flange with JB Weld, you might be able to use scrap peice of metal to form most of the flange, held in put with JB Weld. The greater the relative surface zone of contact, the powerful the bond will ace Preparation: As with any adhesive, the surface must be clean and rough. Clean with a solvent (according to another reviewer, acetone is the best solvent for this purpose, but rubbing alcohol will work), roughen the surface, then clean with the solvent again. Use a clean cloth for each app of solvent. I generally use a little grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. You can also scratch the surface with a knife, or use coarse sandpaper, or both depending on the e solvent cleaning is for removing the LAST TRACES of oil from CLEAN surfaces. If the parts are oily, even multiple cleanings with solvent may not be enough---you may redeposit oil from your cleaning cloth or as the solvent evaporates on the surface. So, if you can detect any oil on any portion of the part, or if you have any doubt, clean it with a degreaser first. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Only when you are certain that there are no traces of oil is it time for the solvent cleaning(s).Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. Sometimes a thick rubber band is perfect. Often you can arrange pieces so that the weight of the top piece will keep the joint together until the JB Weld cures. Sometimes you can put a weight (such as a brick) on top to apply gentle pressure. Do not remove the clamp or pressure until the JB Weld has cured completely. After an hour or two, after the glue has set but is still soft, you can chop off any excess with a knife or razor---but if you don't need to chop the excess off, don't. Often you can build-up the surfaces around a break for added strength. Sometimes blue painters tape can be used to support keep pieces together while the glue sets, and/or to create a temporary stand to keep the pieces in the best orientation. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 RollJoining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as excellent as possible. If you will be filling substantial gaps, sometimes it is helpful to cover openings with blue painters tape to prevent the JB Weld from flowing away and leaving ining Long Thin Parts (rods or sheets): Test to overlap if possible, or reinforce them with a related overlapping peice of metal glued in put with JB Weld. To join a 1/8" steel rod, to another 1/8" steel rod, forming a "T" (a common and simple welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), chop two 1"-long "L's" from a heavy-paper clip, (or create L's from related wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the "L"s in place---before covering it all with JB-Weld. Be sure to thoroughly clean the rods and wires first (see below). For little parts, or when wire wouldn't work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an perfect job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Ideally, apply the JB Weld, then wind the floss tightly into the JB lling Holes: Don't forget to prepare the surfaces as described above---even if you can only roughen the surfaces with an ice pick or awl. JB Weld shrinks very small as it cures so fill the hole completely. If it is possible to sand the surface when the JB Weld has hardened, then overfill the hole slightly. Since JB Weld flows a small until it sets, the surface should be horizontal. If not horizontal, you can apply the JB Weld and then cover the hole with blue painters tape until the JB Weld sets. Depending on the job, it is often a better tactic to fill the gap as much as possible with a piece (or pieces) of metal embedded in JB Weld that a single mass of pure JB inforcing a leaking pipe: Work JB Weld into a piece of fiberglass cloth or with a spatula, apply, and then add more JB Weld to any thin spots and to feather out the edges. You may have to apply several layers of the JB Weld-saturated fiberglass cloth. Sometimes wire cloth (window screening) can be used.Holes in vehicle body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in put by JB Weld) that is a amazing strategy---the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-pc. RivetsMixing: Follow the instructions. A paper plate can be a amazing mixing surface; popsicle sticks are the best mixing tools. Beware that you must use the same amount of resin and hardener, and they MUST be VERY thoroughly mixed. Mix until you are certain that it is completely and thoroughly mixed, and then continue mixing for twice that time. Seriously!!!Curing: Follow the instructions, but wait longer than recommended: the longer you wait the stronger the bond. A a day or two at 70 or 80 degrees is a reasonable MINIMUM. Note that epoxies do not "dry"--there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). Chemical reactions are proportional to temperature (the rule of thumb is that for each 10 degrees, the reaction speed doubles). Using the rule of thumb, if it takes 1 day to cure at 80 degrees, then it takes 16 days to cure at 40 degrees, and that's only to minimally cured. Okay, I know that waiting this long is not practical in a lot of circumstances---you can probably obtain away with curing for 4 hours at 90 degrees (but don't go much higher than 90 degrees), and "take it easy" for a couple of days.WHEN TO USE OTHER EPOXIESFor materials other than metal, particularly for rigid plastics, other epoxies are usually better than JB Weld. Some epoxies are clear, or white, or specialized for particular purposes. For example CLEARBOND H-3S Clear Powerful Epoxy Adhesive Syringe - .85ozWHEN TO USE QUICK-EPOXIESOrdinary (slow) epoxies (whether JB Weld or other epoxies) dry harder than fast epoxies and are generally the best choice. Maximum strength is the whole point of epoxies--if you don't need maximum strength---you probably do not need epoxy. Use fast epoxies when 1) the hardening speed is essential, 2) when the item cannot be supported in the needed orientation while the epoxy sets (at least several hours), or 3) when you have to absolutely minimize flowage. Super-glue is often a amazing alternative in such situations.WHEN TO USE OTHER CEMENTS OR GLUESWhile epoxies are ideal for a few specific uses (primarily when you need a rigid cement for metal or rigid plastic)--there are a lot of situations when other types of glue are better choices. Epoxies are generally NOT recommended for flexible surfaces, such as leather, wood, or flexible plastic, and generally do not adhere well to glass, etc. While epoxies may work with porous surfaces (paper, wood, ceramics, etc.), other adhesives are usually better.White Glue: For most light-duty indoor household applications which do not have to be waterproof, ordinary household white glue is safe, cleanup is very easy, and in most cases repairs are redo-able if you create a mistake. White glue shrinks a amazing as it dries, and so is not amazing for filling holes or huge gaps. For example: Elmer's All Multipurpose White Glue, 7 5/8 oz. (E379)Glue Stick: Think of glue sticks as thick white household glue in stick form. Glue sticks are amazing with paper, but have few other applications.Avery Glue Stic, 0.26 oz, Package of 6, (98095)Wood Glue: Carpenters's wood glue is essentially water-proof (when dry) white household glue. It penetrates and strengthens the wood better than any other type of glue. It is safe, and cleanup is easy. If the joint breaks again (because the wood is weak), it can be re-glued. For example: Elmer's E701 Carpenter's Wood Glue 8-OunceGoop: Goop will bond virtually any material, including leather, plastics, glass, and metal. The bond is clear, VERY strong, waterproof, and hard but flexible. Since Goop is clear, if a small additional oozes out, it is barely noticeable. I've used Goop to repair ceramic plant pots, water hoses, and shoes; to seal holes in air-mattresses, to close little holes in window screens, as plumbers paste in assembling plumbing parts, to I also use it to seal rust spots on my dishwasher rack--the Goop it also makes a "cushioned" surface that will prevent scratches to dishes. Goop is particular amazing for repairing damaged electrical cords. Amazing Goop All-Purpose Household Goop, 3.7-Ounce Tube #130012Silicon Glue: Silicon glue is best for glass, and when you wish a truly flexible connection (for example, to absorb vibrations). It is a amazing alternative for Goop for general household use on glass, plastic, and metal when you do not need the maximum possible strength. It is safer than Goop, and cleanup is easier. Like Goop, silicon glue takes days to reach reasonable strength, weeks to reach maximum strength. For example: GE Silicone II Household Glue, 2.8 ozFabric Glue: Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive, 4-Ounce works amazingly well on fabrics, saturating the surfaces enough to provide a very powerful bond, but without soaking through. Depending on the application, fabric glue can be better than sewing. It remains very flexible, e.g., it would probably be amazing on leather or massive vinyl (e.g., women's handbags, shoes, luggage, etc.)Super-Glue (Krazy Glue): Super-glue is very strong, rigid, and fast. In a lot of ways it is related to 2-minute epoxy---except that no mixing is required. Although very hard, super-glue is brittle, and so, is not recommended for flexible objects. Super-glue is hazardous in that it can easily glue fingers (etc.) together. Previously, I used super-glue frequently on objects (e.g., jewelry) when a clear bond was required---however, Goop is better for such applications, safer, and more conveneient. Opened super-glue keeps poorly, even in tighly sealed glass containers---so I recommended packages of multiple very little tubes. BAZIC Super Glue, 3 grams 0.10 ounces, 6 Per PackLiquid Nails/Construction Adhesive: When you need to permanently join a huge amount of surface, of almost any kind, Construction Adhesive is usually ideal. If you need to join 2 2x4s to create a 4x4 Construction Adhesive is better than nails. Most construction adhesives are slightly flexible, and so can even be used on leather (i.e., to repair a loose shoe sole), etc. Construction adhesive may leave a stain on porous surfaces, and may stain-through thin surfaces. For little projects, Goop is usually a better ulking Compound: You can think of caulking compound as white household glue with alot of inert filler--to use when you need to fill holes. As an adhesive, it is the weakest on this list, but is powerful enough for a lot of purposes when spread over a huge surface, such as the back of a ceramic tile. A few years ago, I created a brick column to help a mailbox. Traditionally, I should have used mortar--which would have been very time consuming. I could have used construction adhesive (albeit any excess that squeezed out would have been ugly)--but caulking compound was quick, cheap, looks good, and was more than adequate for the Glues: In short, if you really need the glue to set quickly, particularly if you've got alot of gluing to do -- consider hot glues. As several commenters have pointed out, there is a whole globe of hot glues (which come in the form of glue sticks which are used in glue guns), a lot of of which work better, or are more convenient, than comparable cold glues. In general, the most necessary attribute of hot glues is that the glue sets very quickly --- in some cases -- within seconds.. Since most hot glues set quickly, it is tempting to apply them too thickly. Even with hot glue, for maximum strength, you should use the smallest amount that does the job, and apply moderate pressure until the glue sets. Unfortunately, I have only limited experience with hot glues, and cannot supply specific suggestions for specific purposes.
I really don't know why I'm bothering to write this review; the items is, and always has been amazing. I don't have to use it very often, but I've never encountered an problem where it wasn't around to save me time and hassle. I have gone so far as to patch a hole I knocked in an aluminum transmission housing several years ago.I hit a frozen clump of mud on a section line street on the method home one evening and didn't realize I had actually knocked a hole in my transmission housing... anyway, the metal caved in and when I got home realized I was lucky to 1) not have destroyed my transmission since it was mostly out of oil, and 2) the metal stayed in place, miraculously, which not only didn't destroy my transmission, but allowed me to pull it out and J-B Weld it back together. I was in a rush to obtain my car back up and running, so I didn't even wait for all the oil (90W manual transmission oil) to drain... that items is thick anyway, particularly when cold, but I digress... so I just 'welded' it back in there, not really expecting it to adhere with the oil still leaking. Much to my shock the next morning, I wiped a small oil away, and sure enough, it had sealed! I cleaned it up and added some more for amazing measure and never looked the way, I ended up trading that car in 3 years later, and never had one issue after the repair. This items is simply awesome; I can't imagine what it would have cost to either replace part or all of my transmission. It would probably have been worse to test and obtain aluminum welded, particularly because that would have needed pulling the transmission and who knows what kind of time/money that would have been, not to mention aluminum welders aren't exactly a dime a dozen in rural South Dakota.
I had a home chore to fix a relatively inexpensive dressmaker's dummy for my wife. The metal welds securing a slip ring (connecting stand with body) broke free, and thus the dummy looked like a drunken sailor (to be accurate, I've never actually SEEN a drunken sailor -- I was US Troops myself -- , and my apologies to my forebears who were faithful swabbies in the US Navy!). I saw this product online -- the "Weld" part of its name attracted my attention -- and I followed the directions. Very easy, applied with a popsicle stick, it cured in 6 hours and was solid as a true metal weld after 24 hours. Mind you, this is not part-to-part glueing, but rather vertical-to-horizontal welding -- a real test. The dummy is now back to full dumminess, and my wife is happy.
Simply didn't work for me. Attempted to reattach a handle bar on an exercise bike that came off the post. Mixed properly and applied a thick coat. Stabilized and left in put 24 hours. Then applied a second thick coat for added strength. This time allow dry for another 10 hours. Showed wife how it was amazing as fresh until I place perhaps 5-10 pounds of pressure on it. Snapped completely off the post. So much for 3960 PSI. Maybe this items works for little filler jobs, but it completely failed at what should have been an simple fix.
I've been using JB Weld for years, it's the best two-part adhesive out there. It fills and smooths irregular surfaces and joins broken parts like nothing else I've tried. Not brittle like epoxy. Cures non-sticky and machinable. It does take longer to cure, but if you have time it's worth the wait. Un-cured it sags if applied too thick. My most challenging repair was the door handles of my 1969 Alfa Romeo door handles. Most older vehicles have parts created from chromed pot-metal. This is a brittle metal that can break in use, it doesn't bend and cannot be welded. A portion of my door handle inside the door broke and I couldn't obtain a replacement. I used JB-Weld and had no further trouble.
Probably the best *basic* book to start with. I have a handful of introductory welding books and this is easily the most approachable. The content is light and you'll breeze through it quickly. However, it is very clearly written with the absolute beginner in mind. If you've always been interested in welding but didn't know where to start, this is the book to pick up first.
I'm so glad I found this book, I never learnt the art of welding from a mate that passed and I have never had luck with my mig welder. Well today after looking through the book I feel very proud of myself fixing some parts for a tractor.
Amazing book for beginners as I am. I bought a lot of other books before this one... you know, the ones with black & white pictures of giant commercial welders from the 60's or 70's that you'll never 's: see all the pro's the other reviewers before me wrote, they are right on (I read them all before I bought the book)Con's : there were to a lot of pictures of how to change blades on a cut saw, change blades on a grinder and method too a lot of on a plasma cutter (come on, most of us beginners are never going to use/buy one). Save plasma's for more advanced books.But I still think its a amazing book for beginners. What I got out of it and what they never say in all those other books, was how necessary it is to clean your metal before starting and after each weld you produce, including after each spot weld. And to spot weld to alleviate warping and to aline joints. The author really drove those points home, which is what I was never doing all these years (cleaning and spot welding) and wondering why my welds looked like [email protected]$#%ain, I am only a beginner!I gave 4 stars because too a lot of pics on changing blades and plasma cutter were not required for beginners, could have used pages to present more on common causes of poor/bad welds, and maybe present more techniques, upside down welding, etc.
This guy is a successful MIG Welder. I am a proficient MIG welder but he has some ideas and projects I found fun. He has a very amazing presentation. The book is well organized. The instruction will support an interested person learn to MIG weld. Since this is a beginning instruction ya' gotta' take the next step. More projects for yourself or others. Maybe even work in a shop. If you have a idea like the author does test that. Start the adventure.
I'm one of those handymen who late in life decided it was time to weld something ... anything ... just because I haven't before. I bought a welder, tried some welds and created a mess. I realized I required to learn the basics in a logical order. This was the book for me!The book covers the essential tools and safety procedures, before it even gets to the welding stuff. The beginning chapters are slow reading, but worth it! It filled in some blanks I didn't know I had and it was all amazing information. Also, it kept me from buying items I wouldn't need for now. The book for itself right there.When he does obtain to welding it starts slow and manageable. The initial exercises seemed too simple, but really do lay a foundation you have to master first. Each exercise starts from previous knowledge and adds fresh techniques or e writing style is clear and moves at a amazing pace. But even more necessary you can apply what he says when you have molten steel inches from your nose. The pictures and diagrams support build a mental photo of what to do and what to expect. He describes a technique, shows a diagram from a top view and another diagram of a cross-section, then he gives you before/after pictures. Sure enough it happens just like he says. You really can learn to weld from a book.I started to weld using youtube videos, but that doesn't work. The info you collect will be spotty. Some of the youtube welding channels are fantastic. However, as a beginner you are going to miss the whole picture by just watching a technique here and there. This book forces you to slow down and obtain all the info you need to begin 's so much fun to setup the work pieces, test an exercise from the book, flip up the mask and exclaim, "Yup! You can teach an old dog to weld."
This book is perfect! I have taken two years of welding classes and missed info here and there that this book provides. I am so glad I purchased this book and wished that I had purchased it prior to taking my first welding class. I only weld for fun, I'm not trying to be a professional. This book will support technical and art welders figure out where they are making mistakes.
Excellent! Concepts presented clearly and images illustrate the lessons well. Although I have yet to start a welding practice using this book, I have read it from cover to cover. Very much helped me to understand how welding works. I feel much more comfortable and less intimidated by beginning to work on the lessons presented. This book is written in an enthusiastic and sometimes humorous way. Kudos to the author!
Amazing book and simple to follow. Contains ideas for little projects to learn with. However, learning to weld from a book is diffiuclt. There are some Youtube channels that have amazing videos and instructions. Weldingtipsandtrips and are my favourite channels
Got this book because of the title without realizing it is exclusively targeted at the Arts Major who wants to learn to weld & add that to their repertoire as an artist. Also only covers MIG welding. Having said that, I'm certain anyone who wanted could learn to MIG weld using this book exclusively. Well written and perfect color photography helps illustrate the points of emphasis. Extra in that to also covers other essentials of metal fabrication, cutting prepping, etc.). Amazing book for what it covers!
Amazing intro to MIG welding. I have not welding experience and got a MIG welder for Christmas. This book is quick-reading, informative, and full of information. I learned a lot in a few hours. I was still left with a handful of questions, and that's why I give it 4 stars. However, my answers were easily found with a few Google searches. Would recommend to a novice welder.
There is a lot of tape on this roll and it is durable and has super adhesion. DO NOT pull the backing off all at once as the tape will curl and when it sticks to itself, it is next to impossible to separate. Instead, peel off about 3-4" of the backing and then begin wrapping, peeling off more of the backing as you proceed.I used this to seal off joints in my heating runs in my basement and it does a super job sticking to the aluminum plenums.Durable. I am very happy with the results.
Sticks well, beautiful thick and massive duty, especially for the price. Tears easily off the rolls but doesn't tear when it's not supposed to. Amazing for ductwork, and taping seams. I've used on ductwork, aluminum sheeting in attic, and on a Solatube. This tape is far more substantial than the items they give you with the solatube. Doesn't obtain pinholes if it wrinkles.
Have used different brands of the aluminum tape. This product is the best ever. Adhesion to every surface I tried. I used it to reinforce the insulation under my 5th wheel RV. I exclaimed a lot of times while working with the tape how much better it was over prior products. Obviously, I highly recommend this and would more as needed. Quick delivery also.
Really nice quality stuff. Nice that it has a paper backing so u can chop strips ahead of time without having to stick them on surface immediately. You then peak off the parchment paper backing to expose the adhesive side when you are ready to stick on your strip. They also adhere really well, and are very reflective which is what I required them to be. I used them to build light boxes for film posters.
We bought a "flipped" house, and in the past 3 years have been finding lots of problems with substandard work. This tape was used to repair air duct exchange boxes that had been poorly place together. The tape the installer used did not stick very well. This tape seems to stick beautiful well except for on some spots where some kind of plaster-type sealant was painted on (couldn't be taken off). The tape sticks best to itself (or other aluminum tape) and metal....and your fingers, so don't grab it with your whole hand! It's a small tricky to work with (can be tough to obtain the backing off, and it will curl up on itself rendering useless because it will tear if you test to pull it apart). Overall, it seems like a amazing product and I'm hoping it will latest for a while.
I don't use this tape for it's intended purpose, but it works amazing as a super powerful masking tape.I am building live edge slab furniture and I have to fill cracks and voids that go clear through the slab with epoxy. This tape has amazing adhesion to the wood and to itself and with this type of tape I don't have to worry about leaks and a mess to clean up is aluminum tape removes very well also.
I had quite a few locations on my ductwork as well as on my furnaces (2). I created the classic mistake of using duct tape - which is NOT really for ducts the first 2 times I tried to remedy the leaks. Duct tape doesn't keep at all. This items was fantastic! Simple to use (once you obtain it started - you have to be able to remove the backing on the tape itself), sticks well, conforms to shapes rather easily... etc. If I could give it 10 stars I would!!!!!
I have tried several types of foil tape -- and every other one lost its grip within a year -- including two I got from a specialty HVAC supplier that I was told were "the best". After spending all the time to seal the ducts, this was very disappointing.But the insulation was coming loose so I had to test again. Thanks to the reviews about its adhesion, I tried is great! I ended up removing all the loose tape and a lot of the old tape that was beginning to come loose -- to replace it with something that would latest e tape and backing are hard to separate,so I ended up leaving a "tail" of the backing, and pinching a corner of the tape back onto itself. So simple after that.
I ordered this tape to use with aluminum pipe bubble wrap in insulating my portable A/C exhaust hose in to prevent heat from escaping. Since I had never used this kind of tape before, I was expecting a difficult time. However, I found it quite simple to use. Once you first separate the tape from the paper backing, the key is to chop your segments of the aluminum tape only, while leaving the end of the paper backing long enough to peel off without having to begin all over again. The tape is very flexible and holds securely once applied. I recommend it for pipe and hose insulation jobs.
I am still in welding school right now just finished stick and moving on to mig and I found this book very helpful but so a lot of pictures it was hard to actually learn if I was traveling at the right speeds and to see what a amazing weld actually looks like I showed my teacher and he said it was a decent search but once I learned what he taught me the book was really just something to add to the collection
I did a ton of research on these heat press things before I decided on this one. There are multiple reasons, this one turned out to be everything it was advertised to be. 1) Huge surface area, and even heating throughout. 2) Ease of use; Super easy to program if you take a min to read the primary instructions. 3) I looked carefully at the legs of these troops before I purchased. (I mean,.. who doesn't love nice legs?) Anyway,.. I digress,.. I noticed that on the bottom of these feet, the rubber grommets are adjustable and removable - Just what I wanted ! I built a solid workbench just for this machine, and my wifes' silhouette Cameo, and bolted this heat press to the table. That way, when it's time to pull up the handle (release),.. it's super simple,.. one hand operation. Without this thing being bolted to a surface,.. it is definitely a two hand operation to begin it back up. Solid piece of equipment. Massive ! You wont be disappointed .
I really like the machine and the was really fair. There is a 2 year warranty on the unit and I bought a 2 year warranty. I've been won over by outstanding customer service...and a amazing product. I look to more stuff for this seller for sure. Thanks.
I purchased this heat press after about 6 months of going back and forth over what brand to because of reviews ( and lack thereof). At first I was hesitant to this because I could not search much info about it on the web, but I really liked the design of the pull handle on top and a sturdy handle on the bottom. BUT, then, I bought it and it was so easy to use RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX!!!I never owned a heat press before, and it was just that simple! I read all the questions and answers on this Amazon page and it worked like an additional tutorial for me. I highly recommend this heat press from this seller as I have had no problems what so ever. Heats up like it is supposed to and LOVE the sturdy handle on the bottom of the press. I've had it almost 2 months now and have created over 20 shirts . Very happy.
So far this machine has performed very well, I use it regularly. It's straightforward and simple to use, just remove from the box, screw on handle and it's all set to go.
This is my 2nd TUSY press that I have purchased in the latest month. I had bought another brand 6 months ago but the temperature would not stay constant and would fluctuate as much as 20 degrees. My 1st TUSY was used 10 mins after opening the box without any problems whatsoever. The degrees stayed within 1-2 of programmed temperature. There was no set up required, just plug in and use. My second TUSY press had an problem right out of the box but the company handled my answer with the utmost professionalism. My problem was resolved within 2 days of my inquires and my 2nd TUSY is now working as well as my 1st press. If I am ever in the shop for another press, this TUSY will be the only press I purchase, Thank you!
Horrible, i got the machine chop it on one time just to see did it work. Went back to use it and it wouldn't chop on. The sellers didn't even wish it back. Come to search out all the wires wasn't even connected and some had shortages. Don't waste your money.
Don't be fooled by the title -this book is for anyone learning to weld or improve there skills. I own or have read most books on welding aimed at the beginner and non-professional or hobbyist and while most are a waste of paper, this one, along with How To Weld (Motorbooks Workshop)), is at the top of my list. It is clearly written, with enough detail to obtain you pointed in the right direction. I believe that learning to weld with just written instruction would severely handicap persons efforts, but through a combination of these two books and the huge amount of video instruction now available online, a beginner can create a very amazing begin if there are no private instruction available to e one caveat is that, along with How To Weld, both books test to place in so much info on various techniques that skip some areas. For instance, there is no mention of aluminum wire feed welding with a spool gun. The only mention of aluminum welding is in the TIG section.If you are looking for introductory books on welding, you won't go wrong with this one.
I haven't welded since high school over 40 years ago. I recently purchased a welder for my home and required a amazing refresher on the info and techniques of a amazing weld. This book is very well laid out, with a amazing mix of written and pictorial descriptions to obtain me back on track. I have a mate who does much more welding than I do, and he actually borrowed it because he said it had some amazing techniques that he would benefit by.
Amazing book. Down to earth that I use for reference. Want after reading it and learning a lot, it had more tables and reference data. I end up looking elsewhere for that, but it was a amazing book to learn from.
This book is excellent for me because it covers all of the types of welding that you might use around the house/farm and also as a profession if that is where you are headed. The author uses plain language that is simple to understand and there are plenty of pictures to present you what he is writing about. I have other welding books, but if I only wanted one book, this would be it. Everything is there that I need to do some solid work.
I bought this particular heat press because I liked its overall design compared to others. I use it to press comic books however, the timer only goes to 999 seconds (about 16 minutes). Also, the default on this press is in Celsius, so be careful not to confuse with Fahrenheit.
Update!!! The first machine was faulty so I contact the company and they sent me out a fresh one. This one is a whole lot better. For the it's definitely worth it. Especially if you pressing vinyl and most heat transfers. ❤️❤️❤️🔥🔥🔥❤️❤️❤️Temperature is not constant. And it's about 30 degrees off. I messed up three using heat transfers shirts with this press. Most people who use vinyl may not message it. Will test increasing the temperature. That should work hopefully.
Totally useless. I would not recommend this junk to anyone. Pack says 220 volt only and 25W but has a 110 volt plug on the cord. At 110volts the unit barely or does not even hum on all settings except "1" where it hums louder but barely makes a tag on a tool. There is no indication on the pkg or tool who the manufacturer might be. Certainly not indicating "Dream Loom". Amazon did not indicate this tool was created in China and would be shipped from China. Poor on my part.
This works amazing for repairing damaged wood. The additional "set-up" time it provides makes it simple to work with. Unlike Minwax or Bondo wood repair epoxy putty, which both harden very quickly, Woody's gives you plenty of time to apply and "tool' the mixed putty. This works out really well when you are covering a larger zone or one that requires more time for "detailing". The downside is that it takes quite a bit longer for Woody's to be ready for sanding and painting. I wound up using all three products on a latest project. I found that the Minwax and Bondo set so quickly after mixing in the hardener that I had to work quick and often felt too rushed. More than once the putty would solidify before I was able to apply it all (even working in little batches). With that in mind, I would say the Minwax and Bondo products are amazing for smaller repairs or any other situations where you can apply the material quickly. The fact that both are ready for sanding and painting in under an hour means you can power through and complete those particular repairs in half a day. I would say that Woody's is best when the repair is larger, more complex, or, for any reason, requires a bit more time and care for applying and shaping the material. One other thing to note with Woody's is that you have to attention to mixing close to equal portions of the two-part product. If you have too much of one part and not enough of the other, it won't set properly.
I used this to repair a rotted lower door frame. It was simple to apply and the two part epoxy putty cured rock hard and strong. It’s simple to sand and drill as well. The woodwork around our front door looks as amazing as new!
I've used this items a couple times to patch exterior wood that had some water damage, and it seems to work. You need to chisel out all the damaged wood so that the filler can bond to a clean surface, and be sure to give the filler plenty of time to dry and cure. I haven't required to match the color of the wood being patched, which is amazing because in terms of color match, this items reminds me of a "flesh colored" Band-aid. But it took primer OK and seems to be staying place on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. So, I have no complaints and will use it so, one thing I forgot to mention earlier: this filler is thicker than most caulks, but you can still smooth it with a finger when it's workable. I usually wear latex gloves while applying, so I can use my finger to force it into cracks or smooth it out. I also hold some damp rags on hand to wipe away excess.
Amazing wood epoxy that is simple to mix and provides ample working time before setting unlike related two-component products. This wood filler was used to restore existing millwork (doors and door frames) so that it could be mortised and drilled for fresh hardware. It cures hard over night (about 10 hours or so), although the manufacturer recommends 12-24 hours before sanding or machining. The only disadvantage is that it can be difficult to measure since both components are paste-like materials.Highly recommended.
I followed instructions mixing the two on a flat surface; I cleaned zone to be filled. I used toothpicks to pick up the glop stuffed it into the hole until hole was filled. I broke the toothpicks off leaving the pieces with glue in the hold. Pushed some more glop in. Wiped the surface clean. The next day I sanded the area. Re-screwed the hinge back into the cabinet door. Voila! I am 82+ year old woman if I can do it anyone can.
With no experience whatsoever, I was able to fix significant and deep zone of dry rot on wood railing. Impossible toget someone to do little job in zone in which I live so decided to do myself, a senior lied several coats after letting product dry thoroughly between coats in to restore original squared off nded to finish surface and painted later. So satisfied to have found this product on Amazon andto have reviews from others in to choose best product for the job I had to do.
This is the greatest exterior filler you'll ever find. I purchased this product in 2013 from Amazon. I used it to fill knot holes, wood defects, splits, etc on my redwood deck. I am resanding the deck to re-stain after 5 years. 5 years of harsh Colorado Summers and 5 years of freezing snow and ice in the winter. Most of the locations I filled are still OK, but a few fresh ones have appeared. I figured I required to some fresh WOODY filler. I found the old containers, opened them and the product is STILL GOOD! This product deserves 10 stars...
A few months ago, I began a restoration of my 10 year old deck. Although I had used pressure treated lumber, some of the deck boards had experienced partial rot on the edges (possibly due to organic material which had become lodged in the narrow spacing between the boards). Since the deck is not located where it can dry out in direct sunshine due to surrounding trees, the matter that collected remained wet enough to cause the rotting issue.I removed each board for inspection, and scrapped of the residue. Some boards weren't rotted badly enough to require filler (i used a wood hardener on these). But others required to have the rotted wood dug out.I tried several other products, but wasn't very happy with the results. The filler wasn't drying hard enough, and could easily be scrapped en I tried PC Woody. The 2 part mix was simple to work with, dried quickly (even deeper fills within 24 hours). I was then able to sand and stain the affected areas, and the results have held up wonderfully.I would highly recommend this product to others.
I purchased this wood repair epoxy originally to repair an old 22 rifle butt stock. Where the stock mounted to the rear of the receiver there was a lot of slop and the stock moved all around. To avoid making a fresh stock I gave this items a try.I mixed a batch per the instructions and place it on the stock in the issue areas. I then gave it 24 hours to fully cure before sanding it down for a excellent fit. It started to harden after only an hour or so but I like to give items plenty of time to completely cure. A dremel tool was used with a rotary cutting bit (like and end mill) for the rough inletting, and hand sanded for the final fit my project some of this epoxy was going to be exposed and able to be seen with the stock installed on the rifle. I got everything to fit like I wanted it to and prepped the stock for staining. The epoxy does take wood stain. You may need to apply thinner or heavier coats to it vs the surrounding wood as it will stain to a various darkness. The finished project came out much better than I expected.Another project this was used on was an exterior door frame on the back door of my house. My puppies had chewed the bottom corner of the door frame as they were teething. About the bottom 6" was missing of the door frame. I created this larger repair in two batches to avoid the product sagging by trying to do the job with one huge batch. I gave the first batch 24 hours to cure, roughed up the surface a bit with a wire brush, and place on the second batch. Another 24 hours of cure and it was sand and paint time. The paint was exterior latex and it went on easily, just like the rest of the wooden door frame. A second coat a few hours later and it was done. You have to look close to see that I had created the repair at all. Very satisfied with the results.
This product is perfect for certain jobs with one caveat. It takes 12hrs (at 72F or so) to cure enough to sand, and 24hrs to fully cure (though you can paint it prior to full cure, as it doesn't require evaporation). But if you are used to Bondo which hardens in mins and therefore adds no additional time to your job, PC Woody will add a an additional full at said, it breathes with the wood so it won't pull away like Bondo will. And another pro it has over Bondo, it doesn't have any smell whatsoever. And of course, it also has a much longer working time. Because it's wetter than Bondo it can also be worked into deeper crevices. Bondo is like working with bubble gum so it's hard to work into a deep void. PC Woody is more like cookie batter that can easily be pushed into l in all, it's something my tool shed will never be without. For the right job, it can't be beat. I repaired an old door jamb with this and it was excellent. The jamb looks brand fresh and it really does dry harder than wood. But it is inconvenient that a job can't be finished in a single day.
Really wanted this to work. I like the simplicity of it. Unfortunately, it continuously tripped our breaker so we never even got to use it. In addition to this, I barely even touched the lever when packing it back up and the top part few up, moved the press and dented our drywall. Thankfully, none of our faces were in the method and it didn't fall off the table and land on our feet. It's a HEAVY item. Lastly, the button pad said temp and teme (instead of time) - which makes me think we got some kind of knockoff. Thankfully, I ordered via Prime, UPS is picking up for and I hope my is given in a timely manner so I can another heat press - various brand, various seller.
The Machine itself has worked great, tonight I hear electric shocking noises and see sparks flying off the machine. The wires have burned through and almost caught on fire!!! Penson sent me out a replacement even though the 1 year warranty was expired, which is the honest thing to do considering it was a manufacture problem and an extreme risky fire hazard.
Was very disappointed with this I had read a lot of reviews on Amazon about this heat press. There were more amazing reviews than bad. I decided to give it a try. BIG MISTAKE!! The heat press would jump from a low heat to an extreme high heat within seconds. When pressing a shirt the handle stuck and it took several tries to obtain it to open, this was after it had jumped to an extreme high heat It melted the vinyl to the shirt!! It came with very limited instructions and of course no information to obtain ahold of company. This heat press turned out to be several poor reviews in one poor machine. For those lucky enough to have gotten a "good" one, you were fortunate. WOULD NOT RECOMMEND!
Update: After posting on a group on Fb asking for help, someone told me you have to keep the temp and time buttons in for 2 seconds after setting the temp. That solved my problem and it works fine now. I'm still giving it 3 stars at this point because the directions were so unclear and there is no customer service to contact if something goes wrong. I wouldn't this one again because of that, but I'm not going to bother to return it now. I ordered this and it appears to be broken. It heats up but the time and temperature reverts back to 390 even when I set it according to the manuals directions. It just says SP on top, and the temperature of 390 below. It appears to be created by Chinese company or the directions are translated into English, and they are not very thorough. This very well may be user error but as I cannot search a phone number to contact anyone for assistance, it will be returned today.
I cranked out five shirts in the time it took me to do one with my iron!! Why did I wait so long to this?! I purchased the 15x15 because my husband is a 3XLT and his shirt designs are all 11.75" wide, so a smaller one wouldn't have sufficed. Extremely simple to use. Plugged it in, selected the temperature and time and that was IT!However.. when I have this on and it switches into heating up mode, my ceiling fan light dims. When it switches off, ceiling fan light goes bright again. It's on a normal wall socket.
I'm a first time shirt maker for my llama hiking business in the Smoky Mountains. I researched presses on the shop and this came up as one of the best yet the ratings on Amazon don't reflect it. I was not sure on purchasing this press because of the reviews that people have posted on Amazon. I figured for a couple hundred bucks it was worth the gamble.I took it out of the box and it had instructions (read where some presses do not). I purchased some transfers and t-shirts already and started pressing the first day. I have pressed over 200 shirts so far and has worked flawlessly. I only had one mistake and that was because I rushed and the press was not hot enough yet when I pressed on a transfer.I was thinking that a swing arm would be helpful because it moved the hot plate out of the method while you place the shirts in their position...I found that I was beautiful amazing at situating the shirt just right without getting burnt.I would another one if I had to. Hope this was helpful to someone.
We have purchased several various heat press machines in the "under $500" category. This by far has the evenest temperatures across the top plate, tested with a laser. The silicone on the bed has nice rounded corners that shirts do not obtain stuck on, yes this really is a thing when you are doing high volume! In the latest 3 months, this shirt has pressed a successful 2500+ shirts without issue we had was getting the pressure right as the user only has a knob to turn and no true amazing method to set "60psi". Our learning curve and solution: #1 Discovering that the handle will "pop" into place, and hold the pressure on the shirt. If you are having to keep it down, you are doing it wrong. Adjust the knob on the top back. #2 Adjust it to the "hardest" point for the operator to press the handle down so that it clicks into place. This is maximum pressure, and is good! #3 When releasing it, be QUICK! It will pop up a lot better for a "quick yank" than grabbing it and trying to lift. The swiftness will support the handle pop up and release the shirt out of the press.What we discovered WE required to operate at high volumes. (This is OUR setup based on shirts and transfers we use.) #1 The press, adjusted for max pressure. #2 Teflon sheets, only if doing transfer to both sides of the shirt. (use the sheet between the shirt and the silicone bed, so your first print doesn't stick. Don't forget to allow the 1st transfer fully cool before doing the 2nd.) #3 Plenty of power, when you obtain 3 of these on the same 15A circuit, it will blow! lol #4 Sturdy table and room to work. We work with 2x 8ft tables. Table #1 Shirt press(s) with a stack of shirts and transfers for simple access. Table #2 directly behind the operator(s) for cooling, folding and boxing.
Shipping was really fast. I purchased this item on 9/7/18 and it was delivered on 9/9/18, a Sunday. I was very happy to have it delivered so quick to surprise my wife on a weekend where she still had some time to work on some wife is an experience user and has been using heat presses for a small while now. We were borrowing a mates when I finally decided to this one. I spent a small additional on this one as I thought it would be nice to the Teflon coating already on the heat plate so it was one less thing that she had to worry e first thing my wife did was read the user manual from top to bottom and asked about the "Extra Fuse" that came with it. In the manual it says something about an additional fuse in the bag. We looked all over and didn't see the additional fuse. Amazing thing it worked right away.We have only had it for a few days, but she has already done a few shirts.. The temperature has it set for is 305. She started to message that one of the shirts she did shows a small imprint on the vinyl. This was a shirt she had place an photo on the back and another on the front. The imprint was on the front photo and it looked identical to the back. She couldn't figure out how it was getting on there as it wasn't even lined up at the same place/area...We ended up looking at the heat press itself and saw that a lot of the shirts designs were "Imprinted" on the Teflon, which was causing it to imprint slightly on some of the other designs. I wasn't able to obtain an photo of it as its a slight imprint, but for someone who is making shirts for other people, she doesn't wish any imprints at all on there.With the machine off and cool, been off for a few hours, she tried to wipe it off with just her bare hand and thats when some of the Teflon came off. The description says "Convenient to Clean" which we didn't think that rubbing our hand on there to wipe it off would cause the Teflon to come off so of the press present the view from a small distance and a closer up of the spot where it came up. Still hard to see where the imprinting was done, but if you can see the close up view you can kind of see some of the printing was ankfully I bought some Teflon sheets, due to arrive tomorrow, but as of right now I e-mailed the company to see what their response is to this situation. Just very disappointed that this "Convenient" "Attractive Appearance" device i spent a small additional on is already having so a lot of problems on Day 2 of light use.
I never leave reviews. I am just the type of person that doesn't ever log back on to leave a review but I felt compelled to leave one for this. I purchased this heat press in August of 2018 for my wife to do some light work around the house with it, create us some custom shirts and things like that. We didn't use it very massive or frequently at all. Well, about a week ago, I was in the middle of pressing a shirt and the handle popped back up and the unit wouldn't stay closed. After some fighting with it and closer examination, I noticed that the handle was bent and the tubular bar actually split begin and caused the unit to not be able to latch anymore. I am not sure if this happened in transit or if I just got a poor unit (these things happen). I immediately reached out to the supplier, sent pictures and all relevant information, and they responded to me right away, even during their holiday!!!! If that is not awesome customer service I don't know what is!! We exchanged a few messages and the company ended up replacing the machine for me! I cannot even start to express how thankful I am for that level of customer service as it is very hard to search these days. I plan on ordering another heat press soon and I can guarantee that I will be coming right back here, as well as recommending mates and family as well. Thank you again!! -Mark C.
Amazing press! Arrived quickly! Sturdy frame and best I could search for the size 15x15! I'm already spoiling my mates and family with t shirts and hoodies. I've only had it a few days but I'm in love. It was simple to set up (aka take out of box, set on a sturdy desk, and plug in) then setting the temp and time was super simple as well!
So far I am very impressed with this machine. Makes the work very simple to do and quickly. Massive and built solid. I was able to do 6 cruise t-shirts within minutes. I purchased a 9x12 Fancierstudio over a year ago and constantly second guessed myself on the positioning of the vinyl. Now I can actually see and just wished I went with the 15x15 in the first place.
I purchased this press at the end of March of this year in hopes that I could create customized shirts for myself, my children and family. Only a couple of months after purchasing my press started to malfunction. It would not heat up, the press would not present the temp or timer. Not to mention the timer did not work from day 1. I had to set timers on my phone when using it. After watching YouTube videos I discovered the timer should automatically start after you start to press. Well mine never did that. So I was sent a defective press. I sent it back to the company and after 3 weeks I got it back. The back of the press was lose because they didn’t tighten the screws back on, the press looked banged up and not in the condition I sent it. But I gave birth to my third kid shortly after getting it back and didn’t use it. Decided a few days ago that I was going to create some t-shirts for my children after recovering. Well guess what... the press won’t present the temp or timer and still won’t heat up. I don’t recommend this press to anyone. They won’t replace this defective press or give me a because it’s past 90 days. They wish to guess what is wrong with it through email and send me parts to fix it myself. I a lot of for this press and I’m very upset and not satisfied. I tried to work with the company but I’m beyond frustrated at this point.
I've had it for a while now and still a newbie at heat pressing, but it gets the job done. The lack of instruction was a bit daunting but after a bit of playing with the controls it wasn't too difficult to figure out. Couple of tips:-if you set the timer, every time you close the lid, it will begin and beep when the time is up... and hold beeping. To avoid that, I just stop the timer once I shut the lid.-for me, the vinyl required to be set for longer times, so I did whatever the vinyl manufacturer said but then repeated it for fear of burning something if left too long.-it does take a bit to heat up, but I've not had any problem with it getting to the proper temperature.I haven't tried the sublimination aspect yet (no clue as to how that works) but I'm excited to give it a go in the near future. It's been a amazing investment for this fresh crafter.
I haven't been using it too long I've only done about 20 shirts. But so far so good! I was pressing vinyl on shirts with an iron and one 3 layered onesie would take about an hour AND the vinyl would shrink so it ended up not lining up well. Best $200 I've spent. I've chop pressing time by about 2000% so worth it if you have constant requests coming in!S/n: If you're wondering if it's a amazing choice or not I asked a family mate who owns a print to support me choose between this and two others and he said this was a amazing choice for quality and size!
After having a Cricut for a year I was thrilled to obtain a heat press to create iron-on vinyl projects with ease. After receiving this press for Christmas, I tried about 25 separate iron-on projects with different 100% cotton fabrics (onesies, dish towels, tee shirts, etc) and was not able to successfully transfer the vinyl on anything. The vinyl immediately pulled back up after up to 10 attempts to keep down the press for 15-30 seconds at a time.I tried various brands of vinyl, various keep times/temp settings (recommended by both the manufacturer as well as the instructions on the HTV). Nothing worked. I have wasted vinyl and so much time and sanity trying to obtain this to work for greatest disappointment with this product is the not good customer service I have received from the manufacturer, Penson and Co. I wrote an initial email to their customer service (the phone number, while hard to search at first, became instantly useless because their voicemail box is full) and got a response a couple days later asking for pictures so they could specifically diagnose the problem. After spending MORE time responding and giving them what they asked for I have received no response back and it has been five days since sending the email girlfriend, who also has a heat press (brand name is Fancierstudio), holds her press down for 15 seconds using Siser Easyweed and has had absolutely no problems. The vinyl immediately adheres after the first hold. I will never from this company again and wouldn't recommend that anyone else does. The product got decent reviews which was why I chose this one. I must have gotten a defective unit and this company has shown absolutely no urgency in fixing this for me.
I’m so dissapointed in this heat press. After sitting online for 2 weeks reading reviews , I decided to go with this one for my t-shirt business. I tried not once, not twice, not three times but multiple times. This Heat press does not obtain hot at all and if you it, you’ll end up wasting all of your vinyl. I do not recommend anyone this. I’m in the process of returning mines now. I hate I have to give this any stars.
I read a lot of mixed reviews on this machine and it created me EXTREMELY skeptical. But it’s like when everyone says “oh don’t go see that film it sucks” yeah it sucks to YOU. Don’t believe everything you hear sometimes you have to test it for yourself. I’ve printed several shirts since I received this machine yesterday. Yes on day one I pumped out about 4 or 5 t shirts with different designs in each and I have yet to search an problem with the machine. Being the person I am I purchased a 3 year warranty because I cannot see into the future. The machine does come with a manufacturer warranty but hey better safe than sorry. Also comes with an instruction booklet. Regardless of what you might read I am telling you that from my experience thus far I LOVE THIS MACHINE! And if something does go wrong...I have a 3 year warranty to back me up. So walk in my foot steps and the machine and for leave of mine a warranty. Sometimes it doesn’t to be so back yourself up with a warranty. I hope this help. Health&Wealth
It does what it's supposed to. The main reason I gave it three stars is because when an item is advertised as NEW I expect it to look NEW. This item arrived already showing visible signs of rust and a damanged finish, consistent with something used. Apparently this isnt' the first time it has happened either because an earlier review noted a related issue regarding signs of rust. If you do decide to this create sure you have an adequately huge and sturdy surface to put it on. The item is VERY heavy, and the handle is not the easiest one to operate. It requires a certain amount of force and I found that the press almost tipped back when I tried to begin it because the handle seems to stick. Now, maybe that's just mine because the screw along the back is rusted, but maybe it's just the method it is even if that wasn't the case.
I've been able to obtain my htv needs met by this heat press about 40% of the time. I've watched videos upon videos and have tried a lot of various materials to test and obtain this to work better but the only thing I can come up with is that the heat press does not have an even heat. I have to re-press shirts after 15-20 heat presses at 305-315 degrees multiple times because my vinyl is constantly lifting and not pressing right. I have changed from Cricut vinyl to legit licensed simple siser weed vinyl. My shirts, baby onesie's etc constantly have vinyl lifting after 1 wear. I wish to htv crafted shirts but am afraid to because of the disappointment people will obtain when their vinyl lifts after one day. Want I could return this.
The heat on mine stopped working after 2 1/2 months. It's not getting hot enough. DO NOT BUY THIS. The return policy is only 30 days which is not fair, it should be atleast 90 days. I was satisfied at first but definitely not now.