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100 Reviews Found
I'm not sure if there is a difference between 5149062AA and 5149062AB. So I ordered another part that stated it was 5149062AB just to create sure I got the right part. When I received this one, it was in fact 5149062AB. Same part number as the sensor I removed. So I installed it and everything is working just fine. 2006 Dodge Charger R/T 5.7L Hemi
Solved the oil light problem! Fit was amazing and was an OEM replacement at a lower cost than the local dealer. Had some difficulty getting it to begin threading in but that was my fault for not having it lined up exactly right. Install was relatively simple.
Lots of work to obtain to it... Look for a video by Motor Town Mechanic on YT, amazing information for the install. Definitely do the spark plugs while you've got the upper manifolds off and obtain the shorter sensor socket that he recommends (they're available on Amazon too... Go figure)
A true pita to place in tho. Took most of the day to take the top of the engine apart and place it back together just to screw in a easy sensor. Really not good engineering on Chrysler’s part but the fresh sensor fixed the issue on my n.
First perfectly and fixed our oil light had just gotten and oil change when oil light suddenly started coming on at idle. Checked oil level and plug and both were fine. Before spending getting an oil pressure try we decided to swap out the sending unit. Worked perfectly. No more light and hubby had it installed in minutes.
I ordered this socket when replacing the oil pressure sensor on my 2008 Chevy 6.0. It fit both the old sensor and the fresh one perfectly and created the job a small easier. Rather than use a regular 1 1/16 socket and risk cracking the plastic on the fresh sensor, this socket holds it safely as to not easily hurt the may only use it one time, but the security in knowing that you used the right tool for the job is nice. Rather than using any socket and finding out you created a little crack in the plastic after the sensor is installed and create a mess over the back of your engine, you can confidently know the job was done right.
I purchased this oil pressure socket to change out the poor oil pressure sending unit in my 03 Chevy Tahoe. Due to the zone of the sensor a standard socket of the correct size will not fit. The side walls of socket itself are too thick and will not be able to seat properly on the sensor. This particular socket is especially designed with the oil pressure sensor in mind and has thinner socket sidewalls so it will seat properly. I don't know that it would be impossible to remove the sensor without this tool but it would most certainly be a royal PITA! With this socket, a couple ratchet extensions, and a u-joint you can pull out an old sensor and place in a fresh one in under 15 minutes, even as a first timer. All in it will cost you around $45 if you are trying to replace the oil pressure sending unit. $38 for the AC Delco part and about $8 for this socket. Still a whole lot cheaper and less time consuming than going to a shop.
Socket was a lifesaver after struggling with a locally-purchased "OEM oil pressure switch socket" from Autozone. I have a 2006 Chrysler City & Country with a 3.8L engine. The Autozone socket was very long, with a 1/2" ratchet fitting and left zero clearance to obtain the the socket or a ratchet on the oil pressure switch (there are AC compressor lines in the way). The chrome plated socket in my pictures is the socket from Autozone (note the additional length and obvious lack of hex sides to obtain a wrench on it--and no, vice grips were no help).The Lisle socket, on the other hand, is significantly shorter in length (while still allowing plenty of room for the switch), has a hex end for use with a wrench (fortunately I didn't even need to go this far) and a 3/8" ratchet connection, which for me allowed more flexibility to obtain the job done. I was never able to obtain the switch tightened down properly with the Autozone socket (after trying for almost and hour and then giving up and living with the oil leak until this fresh socket showed up). 2 mins after driving the van up on ramps, with this socket the job was done right. I want I would have bought this socket to start with and waited for it to present rather than fighting with the POS I was able to search in town. See attached pics for comparisons!
Ok someone else posted the difference between this one and the one sold at AutoZone. I went by there for something else today and checked it out. The AZ one is taller and requires a 1/2 inch socket wrench and extension. As tight as it is that would create it near impossible. Napa has an identical socket to this but it is double the price. I'd say that using a six point 27mm socket might do the job, but you will for it in additional effort and time. This one holds the oil sensor so you can pull it out and to use it to place it back on. I highly recommend it to do the job!On the Chevy Silverado's and Suburban's you have to reach behind the intake next to the firewall. You will have to obtain on top of the engine to do so. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing you how to do the job. Expect scraped knuckles and a few curse words out of your mouth while doing the job.On the other hand a will charge you $500 to do it so it is worth it to do yourself. One of the hardest parts was getting the clip off the wire connector so you could take it off the sensor. Then lining it back up to clip it on. Took a few mins to obtain that part.
This socket is specifically designed to fit 1 1/16" oil sending troops that GM and some other manufactures have used for years. It is designed to fully help the outer body of the the sending unit that has rounded corners instead of sharp corners like a typical nut or bolt. I have seen sending troops damaged using a regular socket, although it is possible to do it successfully most of the time. It is also thinner walled than most regular sockets which is important when changing the sending unit on GM 5.3L engines. My sending unit was in a difficult put to reach so I didn't wish to take a chance. It worked like a charm and arrived in 2 days freight as promised.
Lisle just makes amazing tools. This specialty socket makes changing your oil pressure sensor a breeze. It fits well in cramped spaces, thanks to its thin wall design. It’s meant to fit the sensor sockets (1-1/8” or 27mm) like in the picture with the rounded-off corners. If the hex nut shape looks like the picture, and it is an original installed item, chances are amazing this is the socket you need to remove it. Hold in mind, your replacement sensor that’s aftermarket may be various but size also, the one I used took a standard deep wall 21mm socket.
I used this to remove and replace my oil pressure sensor on my vehicle and it worked perfectly for that job and I saved hundreds of dollars. It took me about 30 minute to to replace the oil pressure sensor as the sensor was in a very tight spot which you can not see. You can use a little mirror to see where the sensor is located to create sure you are in the right place. There is plenty of videos on YouTube on how and where and what tools you need to search and replace the sensor. I used this tool only once and it was worth evey Penny. I highly recommend it.
Fit perfectly on my Oil Pressure sending unit on my 07 Yukon SLT 5.3L . If you use this socket, a 3/8" universal joint and a short 3" extension and a flex head ratchet, you can obtain away with replacing this OIl pressure sensor with only having to remove the engine cover. But just a heads up, hopefully you have little hands because even I do and I did obtain quite a few cuts and indentations from having to reach into the intake valley to grab the fresh sensor 3 times as it won't stay in the socket on it's own and it's in a very PITA spot to obtain to.Had to this as a 12PT 1-1/16" socket would fit on the fresh sensor, but just spun on the old one. Don't know why but this one worked on both perfectly.
This tool created changing my oil pressure sensor possible. I'd recommend anyone who has to change their oil pressure sensor obtain this. The job is fun enough without having to worry about having the right tool to obtain it off. This created a tedious job easier. I still scraped my hands up reaching in to pull the sensor out.
Was concerned that this may be too shallow for the sender found on a lot of 80's-90's GM vehicles. Turned out to be a excellent fit for my 89 e hex end (1 1/8, should have been 1 1/16 like the socket size is) gives another choice when tight locations may not let a 3/8 ratchet.Looks almost exactly like the socket that Matco tool dealers for more. Only difference being Matco laser etches their name on the sockets.
Just as amazing quality as OEM! For the fraction of the cost. It fixed my check engine light. I'm a satisfied camper. I would definitely recommend this to anyone.
Direct replacement for the factory unit. Used this one an LS4 in my 2008 impala SS. Beautiful sure it's the same for most Chevy engines e with the crush washer seal too which was nice.
Took a while to install in a Silverado, but once installed it solved my problem. This is trick to install, not because it is hard but due to location. Create sure and research before installing especially if you don't wish to take off your manifold, which some people do, although it isn't necessary. Unplugging the wires isn't intuitive without some youtube videos, and the most helpful one doesn't appear in the top find returns. I also advise taking your cell phone shoving method back versus your firewall and taking some pics so you can obtain some orientation. Even after I place this one in, I took some more pics to see how it was positioned in to re-attach the electrical connection.
The product worked like a charm. Create sure if you are changing this oil pressure sensor, you go ahead and change the filter also. All of the YouTube videos I watched about changing this sensor didn't look too poor but I absolutely could not obtain the wiring harness plug off of the top of it. I ended up paying a mechanic to change it (and the filter). It cost me $100 but well worth it to have it done. The dealership was going to charge me $80 for this part and over $500 labor. Think I did ok.
1997 Chevy Silverado K1500 w/ 5.7L V8. While working on my engine I ended up snapping my original oil pressure sensor off due to it being brittle. Not thinking there would be much of a difference in sensors I purchased a sensor from another online site. I started having issues with my oil pressure dropping to near zero at stops and only raising to 20 while driving. Figured my original sensor had been giving me poor readings all along. Bought another fresh sensor just to be sure and it was giving me the low readings as well. Started wondering if my engine was shot. I ended up changing the oil pump and removing the oil cooler lines, but neither really helped. Oil pressure needle would keep amazing for a bit and then drop sharply. I started reading where people were having related problems and they had tried the AC Delco brand so I figured it couldn't hurt. I am satisfied to say that it has resolved all of my problems and I can definitely recommend this brand. Just create sure you obtain the Oil Pressure Sensor socket to create the job relatively easy.
This part was used ,you could tell it had been installed and removed operated perfectly when e only reason I gave it just three stars was because it had hurt from pliers be used before on it instead of a socket tool. It is working fine currently and time will present if it was a amazing choice for the money.
EDIT!!! BEWARE!!!! This product failed after a few months, somehow oil leaked from the top and was setting off the pressure check engine light, could probably obtain a but not gonna bother. Went to O'Reilly and got a Dorman brand one with lifetime warranty for about $50 that contains the little filter underneath this perfectly, had to erase engine light code, also replaced oil pressure sensor filter located right under this sensor, will modernize once engine light stays off.
..had to cut/remove the center pin as my original did not have one ..(I could actually see where my OEM had the center pin chop and removed as well ..and yes ..IT WAS the OEM ..) ..plugged right in after that ..so ..5 stars on ‘value’ and ‘ease of install’ (cutting and removing the center pin is not difficult AT ALL) ..but only 4 stars for ‘accuracy’ ..WORKS GREAT!
Not the same diameter as the old one - I purchased the socket with this sensor from amazon... Would have been nice if they had been the same... But - I was somehow able to obtain this thing out of my 92 GMC 350 without having to take the distributor off. Oil pressure reports normally again...
I am hoping this is an actual ACDelco part. It doesn't have any markings on it that [email protected]#$%! from any other brand. It did come in a ACD box. There is a sticker on it that says Created in Mexico, which is normal. But I couldn't search the ACD part number on it anywhere. Time will tell. Typically OEM is much better than aftermarket Taiwan stuff.Anyway fit size, etc exact for my 1997 Silverado, 5.7 engine
I replaced this sending unit in my 1997 Chevrolet truck because the fuel pump portion of my original one failed. My oil gauge also would not zero out any more. This sending unit solved my problems. It needed a 1 -1/16 deep well socket that I modified on the lathe to fit the body. (I had one laying around, so I chose to modify instead of buy.)
I got a P0521 code on my 2011 Silverado with 5.3L. I place this one on 4 days ago and cleared the code and it hasn't come back on yet. I cleared it before ordering this one and it came back on the same day. I'll modernize if anything ere are plenty of YouTube videos showing how to change it. You need a 1 1/16 deep socket (available for around $5 on Amazon). I used a swivel, 3" extension, and a 3/8 drive ratchet and was able to remove it without too much trouble. The hardest part was getting the electrical connector off the old one. Have to go by feel as you can't really see it. Once you figure out that the tab on the side slides straight up it's not too bad. I installed a fresh filter that goes under it as ere are cheaper ones available but this has the best reviews so I went with it. This is a job you only wish to do once! I also changed my oil afterwards, mine didn't have the filter and some trash from the old one showed down inside the hole so I didn't wish any debris floating around in the crankcase!
My oil pressure gauge was bouncing and didn't seem to register properly.Did a bit of research and seems that this is a common problem on a lot of vehicles. I did my due diligence andcross referenced the part. For those changing on Chevy Express w 7.4l it's not too poor to obtain to (will note below.)You should yourself a oil pressure switch socket. I picked mine up locally for ~$10. Part was very simple to remove.I noted that my original/installed part had 2 of the 3 pins removed with a small dab of rubber to hold those pins from shorting out. Initially, I thought, maybe I shouldn't remove the pins on the fresh part, because there is a single pin ver sold at a national auto parts store. It was a Sunday and I thought to heck with it and removed the same pins and installed. IT WORKED!! Oil pressure gauge was ready correctly again. Alright!!!For those who own an early 2000's Chevy Express with the 454 once you remove the engine cover inside the cabin it is right there. You can't miss it.
worth every penny! this is the ONLY oil pressure sender that gives an accurate reading for my 1996 GMC Sierra 5.7l engine. I had tried 3 various ones from local auto parts stores before I ordered this one. AC Delco is the only method to go!
I have been replacing sensors in my 1990 Chevy K2500 350 pickup and based a lot of of the on price. That was a mistake… in fact several mistakes. Of the latest seven I replaced four were defective and one broke at the stem installing it just hand tight. I place in a Standard Products sensor (about 10 bucks with shipping) about 6-months ago because the original was leaking and was disappointed that my oil pressure readings were around 10-15. I replaced the oil cooler lines and removed the oil pressure housing and cleaned out the years of accumulated gunk out but I was at a loss as to why the pressure was so low. I went with this one and the pressure now reads 25-40… higher side when cool and at higher RPM & lower when warm at highway speeds. I replaced all those other faulty devices with AC Delco and everything is working properly. You don’t save a dime when something doesn’t work and those other alternatives have been a major disappointment to me.I see another reviewer said this is not a fuel pump sensor and that’s not totally accurate. If your sensor has a 3-pin connector then it’s located under the distributor and is part of the fuel pump circuit. The fuel pump’s basic voltage is through this switch so if the fuel pump relay ever failed you could still be driving. This is a bear to reach but you can do it with a 1-1/16” begin end wrench from the right side of the distributor. If you don’t have a 3-pin connector then you have separate sensors for the oil pressure and the fuel pump and the oil pressure sensor is likely down by the oil filter… pre-1990 years… I believe. The AC Delco is a 5-star sensor for me and since I had to toss that 10 buck aftermarket alternative the for this was well worth not repeating that again… plus replacing this puppy is no walk in the park… it’s actually laying full frontal on top of your engine :)
UPDATE* sensor failed... originally had this rated at 5 stars. lasted 3 months.... factory Origjnal lasted almost 10 years & 150k miles. When I removed.. I noticed that oil was actually making its method into the conector and then causing the gauge to not work properly. Not a lot of options out there so I ordered again. See how long this one lasts. Haven’t tried to obtain a yet... just figured I’d create the relevant ed amazing for 09 Silverado with 5.3. Purchased the Lisle 13250 socket as well. Since the zone isn't great, the socket helped a bit. Took 15 mins to remove and replace... saved $~150 doing this in my driveway.
Few weeks after buying:Not the easiest zone to obtain to but definitely manageable by a amateur. Restart the codes and no problems.... updated review 4/23/18. Almost 5 months later and the sensor has gone bad. Polity requesting the company send a replacement since the part wasn’t exactly (cost) and it should still be covered under the warranty. I will modernize review on status of replacement product.
1996 GMC Sierra K1500 w/ 5.7L V8. My oil pressure needle was acting erratically, and would drop to near-zero when the engine warmed up. No good. I replaced the old Oil Pressure Sensor with this one and now the needle is back to where it was when I bought the truck and behaving normally. Very good. I used this socket to remove the old sensor and install the fresh one, and it created the job a breeze.
I bought this for my 2010 Silverado 5.3L after I had problems with my oil pressure dropping to zero after begin up. I also replaced the little filter located below the sensor while I was in there. Between replacing the sensor, the screen filter below the sensor, oil filter and new oil my problem was resolved. Total time with oil change was about 1.5 hrs to complete.I did not remove the intake to change the sensor so it was tight but the most difficult part of the job was getting the connector off of the sensor. There is a little section on the connector that slides up then you can press in on the connector to release but it was very tricky due to the angle.
I installed the oil pressure sending unit in January, 2019. Very difficult install due to its zone on the back, top of the engine. Got that done only to gave to do it again in May, 2019. The AC Delco unit developed an internal oil leak which got into the electrical connector part of the unit. This caused fluctuating oil pressure readings on the gauge, including no oil pressure reading. Very frustrating to obtain a name brand only to have it fail. I went with one created by Echlin from NAPA for the second install. We'll see how that goes.
This replaced the sensor in a 2010 Express 3500 w/ 6.0. Non AFM equipped. In this case there wasn't a screen below the sensor. Simple to replace on a van but miserable to do on a veral aftermarket versions out there but I always use oem on sensors to ensure that the calibration and operation is per mfg design spec. Bear in mind a lot of sensors operate within a specific voltage range - that's what the ECM needs to see.I've also had pressure sensors literally fall apart - in this case you don't wish oil under pressure spraying everywhere. And of course you wish the signal voltage output to be correct since the ECM uses this sensor to read internal oil ick with oem.
I installed this part and after four months my oil pressure gauge started bouncing around again. It would occasionally go to zero and set of the alarm. I suspected it may be the sensor again, so I bought another one from he same seller and installed it today. All is well now. When examining the failed one, I found oil in the plastic connector where the contacts are. See the attached pics. This oil explained the failure. Hopefully this was a fluke failure as this part is not the easiest to remove and install and I really do not wish to do it again. The original sensor lasted over 150K miles.
Very simple to install and it works the same if not better than my old one is was getting low oil pressure reading and this solved the issue will recommend buying it especially for the price
1991 k1500 oil pressure sensor replacement, This Sensor Reads Pressure & communication to the GaugeNever moves gauge past 15 lbs, Truck has 60 lbs oil pressure at cold start, Gauge works fine...More JUNK through Amazon & TeileHaus Auto Parts.....
If you are a diesel tech these are a must have for your tool box. There is no need to the expensive tester with the valve and gauge. Just place an air hose fitting into these and attach it directly to the air compressor line. I have been using homemade versions of this for years and have never hurt a properly sealed oil system with 125psi. This is definitely a amazing you will spend the same amount of making your own.
Looks like the original, fit like original. However, I had to reuse the o ring. Not too huge of a deal, but they could have place the ten cent item in the box. O rings obtain old, hard and brittle after years, so I may change it out. Not until it starts leaking though. For this job you will need a 22mm wrench or deep well socket, and maybe a screwdriver to undo the clip.
For a few years I had been concerned about a lower-than-usual Engine oil pressure, although it had not gone into the red yet. At 217,000 miles I thought it was the end of the street for my Dodge Dakota when the engine light came on. But a check of the code revealed a defective sensor. Upon installing the fresh one from Amazon, instantly the gage gave me hope for another 100,000 miles. The was significantly lower than an OEM part. What a relief when clearing the “Check Engine Light”.
Installed easy, read correct pressure, but failed at the seam between the metal and plastic part and began leaking the next day. Oil dripping on to hot exhaust could have caused my jeep to catch fire. Do not this sensor.
Description says it's for 6.0 powerstroke, but my 2004 6.0 has 2 pins for oil pressure sensor, now I have to for returning the wrong part $13.00, please check the pins if anyone going to one of these. They tell you that it will work but check your old part first.