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100 Reviews Found
When this refrigerator arrived, I required to change the hinges from the right to the left. I've done this with Dometic refrigerators in the past and it is simply moving the hardware. Not the Norcold, I had to a kit, wait 2 weeks to obtain it and $230.00 to obtain it. It is nothing but a few pieces of plastic and some screws, what a rip. The instructions have you removing the display board. That is not necessary, leave it alone. Then, after installing the refrigerator in my 5th wheel trailer, it doesn't even turn on. Now I have to wait another 2 weeks before the local service center can obtain to it. So, now a planned camping trip means going back to a cooler, something we have not done since out tenting days. Definitely not impressed with this purchase.
This replaced an old fridge that died. It's the closest fit for the hole in the wall that I could find. They could have created it 5 or 6" deeper from front to back a and it would have still fit in the hole. That would have added considerably to the capacity. I gave it only 3 stars because of the door hinges. There's no reason you should need to spend an additional $100 to switch to a left hand hinge but that's what it run it on 12v, you need an additional wire from the truck. The 7 prong light plug is full so I have to have a separate wire to plug in. It signals the fridge to turn on when the truck is started and it can be a little wire, 18ga in my case. They say to hook it to the alternator so it will switch to 12v when you begin it. My pickup has no amazing put on the alternator to attach it so I wired it to energize when I turn the key on. So far it's worked fine that way. When I turn the key off, it switches back to propane. For longer vehicles, they say to use 8ga wire from the battery, 10ga in shorter vehicles. Mine's long enough for 8ga. 8 won't fit in the light plug so I ran 8 to the plug then 10 from there on back. I did the same with the ground wire. The same wire also charges the RV batteries while on the street but the fridge won't pull them down when parked. Once you slay the engine, that additional small wire turns off the 12v setting in the fridge and it switches back to propane. When on propane, it still needs a little bit of juice from the RV battery to run the controls but that comes from a separate wire that you'll contain during installation. It's all more easy than it sounds.I've only used it in cold weather so far. Setting it on level 2 gets it down to the mid 30's inside. It might need to be set higher in hot ey say it's not reliable over 5500' altitude. We live at 4000 and almost never go camping under 6000. So far it's worked fine up to 7500.
This refrigerator fits our older motorhome perfectly. We installed it ourselves, but you simply can NOT rely on Norcold tech support, period. If you need support with hooking up the refridgerator, call your local RV service center. For example....we didnt wish to hook up the 12v....and we could not obtain it to " begin up"..showing an " error "...Norcold tech help isn't worth waiting on the phone line for 45 minutes, all they will tell you, call a service center..but, after two days...fridge is finally installed, working, and is beautiful!
High-quality ball joints, was going with Moog but felt these had better reviews. Install is only simple if you have the right tools. Ball joint C clamps, Little sledge hammer, massive duty sockets. Install 2008 Chevy Suburban 118k miles. Symptoms: clicking front end with turning and outside tire wear. Top and bottom ball joints must be changed. You need to have a grease gun to fill joint. Nothing like saving DYI..
overall, it was simple to press out the old one and install this one. The rubber cover doesn't stay in put until after you install it and obtain some grease in it. Just place the cover where it's supposed to be, and it will maneuver itself into put once it is installed.
I decided to this product based on Norcold's reputation for quality, there are a lot of other refrigerators that cost far less. WARNING -- Unless you really know what you're doing with AC and DC electrical systems in an RV, you should budget a significant amount of additional to have an RV service technician install this unit. There is no warning in the on-line product info that unique wiring is required, especially if your RV has an auxiliary battery, a converter/charger or a power panel. Norcold should warn you of the detailed installation requirements prior to purchase. A person with limited electrical knowledge and skills will not be able to install this. Further, Norcold is not overly willing to provide consumers with technical advice, only dealers. I got a few easy answers when calling, but was quickly referred to a dealer.
Installed on my boat to replace the older model Norcold 400 which quit after 40 years. Installation went well but the fresh model is about 1 inch deeper (front to back) be aware of this if replacing an old model 400 Norcold if zone is an issue. Fridge looks amazing and is keeping quite cold. Mid setting of the thermostat is adequate.
Trust original factory name, arrived quickly 2 day shipping. Amazing not the cheapest $11.00 more than Rock Auto which I found to be the cheapest but would have to for shipping, so it's a wash as far as I'm concerned.
Be aware that this part is created of cast iron. Although the aluminum and cast look the same, they are totally different. My car is a 2015 1/2 (production changed half-way through the year), and some 2015's use this cast ver that Amazon recommends, but they definitely didnt fit mine. If your truck has stock aluminum control arms, replace with aluminum control arms, not these.
Locate your grease fitting in the packaging carefully. It does not come installed and is easily W, also just bought some ACDelco struts. They did not come with fresh top nuts like most other brands do. Could have been lost in shipping ?
Wrong part was sent out now im stuck without a truck until i can obtain the front LEFT LOWER CONTROL ARM NOT TWO FRONT RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARM!!NOW I HAVE TWO RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARMSVERY DISAPOINTED SINCE THE ONLY TIME I HAD TO WORK ON MY TRUCK WAS THIS WEEKEND!
Complete garbage... it looks exactly like the oem arm, and fits exactly like the oem arm, but after one year and less than 10k miles the bushings are completely worn out! The oem ones lasted 90k miles. This is a huge job and it @#$%es me off that these arms are advertised as something that they clearly are not. Do NOT BUY these...
This is not an ACCelco part. They went even as far as duplicating an ACDelco label on the box. Ball joint is tapped for a grease fitting but the part did not come with one. Haven't decided if I am going to return it yet.
I required to replace a ball joint on the passenger side of my 2000 Mustang GT, so I decided purchased the entire control arm since I didn't have a method to press the ball joint out. It took some muscle to obtain the control arm in, but it's been amazing since the install. There was some minor creaking during the short break-in period, but that's to be expected. Just for reference, I did the install at the same time I was putting in Godspeed lowering springs. Amazing bang for the buck.
I have used Dorman products a lot of times, I would say with mostly amazing e ball joint on this control arm doesn't come with a crenelated nut and cotter pin system. Despite properly torquing down that balljoint the nut backed itself off within a month. Luckily it popped while the vehicle was parked otherwise this could've been a true horror story. We replaced the balljoint with a better one and now I have more confidence in the a effect I bought the tool to remove pressed in balljoints so I wouldn't need to replace these control arms for a poor balljoint going ain, disappointed.
Fit really well but it gets 4 stars because it seemed as if the nut that was sent along with the arm was the wrong thread. I ended up using the nut off of my factory arm and it went on perfectly. You're going to need a amazing dead blow hammer and some 3in1 oil to pop them in place, no grinding or altering needed.
Did a complete suspension rebuild this weekend and the truck rides better than new. Replaced upper and lower control arms as well as fresh KYB Strut assembly.
My doorbell chime mechanism was making a "humming/buzzing" sound right after someone rang the doorbell. It was as though the outside doorbell button was stuck in the "pressed-in" position. I pulled the plastic white cover from the doorbell chime mechanism, took a snapshot of how the wiring was connected, then found this one on Amazon, which is basically an identical can accommodate a total of 3 wires: a transformer wire in the center, one for a front doorbell and one for a rear doorbell (for people with doorbells at their back door). Since I have only a front doorbell, I had only 2 wires (a transformer wire and a wire going to the front doorbell screw-down post). This job takes all of 8 minutes.Let me also add that a "humming/buzzing" sound might possibly be a sign of a poor outside doorbell button, according to YouTube do-it-yourselfers. To troubleshoot for that issue, prior to fully installing the mechanism I had just bought on Amazon, I hooked up the wires to see if the fresh unit hummed as the old one did, and it turns out that it was humming as well. I then went outside, unscrewed the doorbell button, and checked it. I took the screws out, and removed the little small inner circuit board that was held in by the same screws used to mount it, and I could not see any problems.I place it back together, then went back inside and replaced the "newly purchased" door bell chime mechanism with the one I was replacing... just to see if the issue may have been the doorbell button. I also learned on YouTube that either wire going to the doorbell button can be screwed to either post, so I switched them around to see if that would help. The humming did go away, but instead of getting the "ding-dong" dual tone doorbell sound, I was only getting a the "ding" without the "dong." I then pulled off the old unit, and installed the newly purchased chime mechanism, and voila! It worked perfect. Only time will tell if I actually have a faulty ior to buying a fresh mechanism, it may be worth your problem to start with purchasing a doorbell button, which can be found dirt at your local hardware shop (make sure that it is the EXACT same style button as the one you have, i.e. surface mount or recessed). If that does not solve your problem, you can return it, then this door bell chime mechanism. Changing it out was a piece of cake, and the YouTube videos pointed out that I did not need to worry about shutting off my electricity, because these troops are super low voltage, which I found to be d luck!
I required to replace my 31 year old NuTone (model KB-10) door chime due to a sticking plunger (I was unable to completely it with an alcohol solvent). This base unit (no cover is provided) was an exact size replacement for my old unit. My old cover snapped back on perfectly. Now I have my ding-ding back! Oh, wow!
Ordered the Nutone Broan door bell chime mechanism to replace a 25-year-old Trane chime mechanism that no longer worked. I found it simple to remove the old mechanism (which meant unhooking wiring and unscrewing the mechanism's housing from the wall). Also simple to install the fresh Nutone Broan. Had to re-position the housing slightly, since the opening for the wiring was not in the same put as the opening on the old housing, but that was relatively simple as well. The Nutoan Broan is a well-made, elegantly simply mechanism. Very pleased.
I love the fresh doorbell, mostly. It was simple to install and it sounds great. I can hear it over the TV and in the back of the house. The ad said it fits 90% of fixtures. My old one must be one of the 10% that don't fit. I COULD NOT FIND A NEW COVER FOR IT! (Online, searching carefully.) So I chop the old , larger plastic mounting frame down down and mounted the fresh doorbell mechanism on top of the old frame and the old cover fit. Looks nice, it was a small more work. Sounds great.
Bought this as a replacement after installing a video camera doorbell switch and the original one was hanging up. Discovered that the issue was not this unit but the video doorbell that was the problem.
Our old doorbell had some kind of short that blew away all 3 components (the doorbell itself, the transformer and the chimes). I suspect that the doorbell was cracked (from the elements) and water got in and shorted everything out. I did not know the extent of the issue until I started the repairs.I replaced the doorbell first and then noted that it was not lit. I then replaced the transformer. It was a challenge to search the transformer. From Internet research, I found that it would be close to the circuit box. It was not - it was actually attached to a ceiling light in the furnace placing the transformer lit the doorbell but still no chimes. WalMart and Lowes had chimes but they were various sizes. The hall is painted and I knew that if I purchased anything smaller, I would have to patch the paint (and that never looks good).I found this chime mechanism on Amazon and it looked exactly like the broken chimes. I ordered it and installed in 5 mins (super easy). The cover from the old chimes fit perfectly and the doorbell now works. (Please note that this mechanism does not contain the cover - just the mechanism.)
This is a plug and play solution to NuTone door bells commonly found in your house. This one has an additional terminal for a rear door bell hookup if you need one. The door bell is the standard Ding.... Dong.... two tone. See video.Our old NuTone burned down when the doorbell button got stuck in the pushed position. The doorbell overheated and took out the transformer with it. Amazing thing we were home when this happened!
Found a 1930-40 Nutone brass door chime at a thrift shop for five cents. saved it til i could a small house, installed it, worked amazing a couple years, then back door chime zip, front door chime "ding-donk". looked for 3 years, talked to electrician, finally: of course, on Amazon. but. had to use little oscillating saw to take out old brass chimes. had to use same saw to carefully chop down rigid plastic housing so fresh chime would fit in. screws to keep it in wall do not match old casing (duh) so fresh chime held gently in casing with tape, cover slipped on. Works Perfectly. Unbelievable tone. Love the look with old brass around fireplace, floor lamps etc.
Amazing price, easier then searching through local parts stores. Slightly larger doorbell chime although same sound. Original cover does not fit over this. Would be nice if could locate cover to go with this set up. I have reached out to no support or avail on correct cover for this chime. Works as intended. Would not again due to no help with cover to go over box.
This item is exactly as it is pictured and described. I purchased several, and they perfectly replaced the originals. I first tried to them from another entity on , at a slightly lower price, and they shipped me a part that did not work. Go this route.
We have been through three of these in about 18 months. They are garbage. the plastic piece, spring, and metal piece that create the doorbell ring fall apart and the doorbell stops ringing. this happens after only a few months. GARBAGE.I know it's hard to search an equivalent product (which is why we tried three times with this one), but we went to another seller and bought a doorbell and the innerworkings are the same size/dimensions and place our old cover over it - - - the other brand is definitely higher quality and will hopefully latest longer.
Mechanic says they looked good. Encountered some difficulty pulling old ball joints, but fresh ones went in well. Amazing price!
Just what was needed -- all components appear well created and fit -- no problem. Just installed so no definition on life span yet -- will follow up after time/miles.
It was a excellent OEM replacement. Very simple to install. Looks sturdy and has quality boots. Hardest part was the bottom joint but manageable. Parts came in a amazing box
I know, the compressor takes up the zone your ice might otherwise take up, but still...The reversible lid doesn't stay on as well as you might like. The system seems to shut itself off independently of my input, but this may be operator error. We bought this unit hoping to have a solar powered fridge for a little trailer; matched the solar panel to the published power usage, and... so far can't figure out how to create it stay cold. It might be fine in a car, where you can watch the display, and power it with the vehicle power system.If we can't figure it out quickly, it will go back.
Have this in a teardrop trailer with dual 6v AGP batteries. The batteries run the LED lights fine. There is a separate, fused, run to the refrigerator unit. We have used it when dry camping and it ran fine for 3 days without any problems but the outside temps were in the high 50's to low 60's during the ok it on a longer trip this summer to 4 US National Parks in Utah. Hot weather. Fridge worked fine for a day or so and then the ERR light started blinking and the fridge didn't run. If I unplugged it and then plugged it in again it waited the appropriate (and factory set) time then started up and immediately shut down again with the same light. The manual is a joke. It claimed the issue was lack of ventilation. The LED lights in the trailer were still quite bright so we were wondering what the problem was. I took the unit out of the trailer and place it on the back seat of my truck and plugged it into an accessory outlet. Unit started right up and ran fine. However, after a day and a half of sitting it again showed the error and stopped running. My truck battery barely turned the motor over. Got the truck started and, once again, the unit ran fine.I will likely be adding a portable solar option as I really need this thing to work in hot weather. I'm now looking into whether I can use an 80w portable solar setup or if I will need a 120w setup. Of course the solar setup will cost as much as the NRF-45 refrigerator/freezer unit. Poop.