Read shimano j04c metallic disc brake pad reviews, rating & opinions:Check all shimano j04c metallic disc brake pad reviews below or publish your opinion.
100 Reviews Found
I really did not wish to spend a ton of cash on tools because I was already sick of spending cash on my wife's car. I required to change my wife's brakes and found this lovely item. BUY IT!!!!!!!!! It will create your life a whole lot easier! Method worth the price. The quality is amazing and will latest a lifetime for those who change brakes every 5 years or so. Amazing product and would highly recommend.
As with all vehicle work, having the right tools can save you time and aggravation. This light and cheap tool works amazing by pushing back the caliper piston. I used a C clamp before, but it is big, massive and hard to control. This small tool did the same job as the C clamp but just faster. For the price of a couple of premium coffees, this capris tool is a amazing buy.
The rubber boot was upside down and spring was backward. I should have read the reviews before I bought this defective product. This created a simple job a true hassle. Had to fix some one else's mess. Look else where before you buy this product.
This review is for the Massive Duty model. It was much easier to use than a C clamp on my latest single piston brake job, I am sure there will be a bit of fumbling with a dual piston setup and having to use an old pad to compress them both at the same time but not more than with a C clamp. Only downside - knob is plastic, I think the socket head that sticks up through the top of the knob is actually the top of the screw and is metal but the knob appears to be plastic which is always a risk for stripping out on a really tough job. But at least if it does strip out you still have the option of the socket head where you would not on other models. Although with how simple it was to turn the knob and compress the piston, I dont see it ever happening. As far as its stoutness, its not quite as massive as I thought it would be but it sure worked well and I dont see it ever getting pushed past its limits. All in all I think it was worth every penny and is a amazing addition to my toolbox.
This tool is meant to be used after you remove the caliper from the rotor. You leave the rear brake pad in the caliper then use this to screw down the pad flat so the piston is back in its place. Remember begin your brake fluid tank and create sure you don't overflow it as fluid will be pushed back up (unless you're changing the fluid and disconnected the hose already which is highly inadvisable because if you obtain air into your antilock brakes controller you can not fix that by yourself. So don't do that.)To remove the caliper take a huge massive duty flat head and stick it between the rotor and the brake pads and [email protected]#$%! begin enough to slide off.
This tool works well and is a very cost effective option. It's easier to keep than the C-clamp a lot of folks recommend. One thing, create sure you hold the old inner brake pad so that you can push on it with this tool. You can see from the picture that the other end (not the side with the handle is quite little and you don't wish to be putting all that force on your actual caliper pistons. Hold the old inside brake pad in there and use it to push on the piston. That method the force is evenly distributed across the entire piston(s) and you only scratch the old pad that you'll throw out anyways.
Worked "fine" with my Golf GTI's calipers. Quotes because it is actually VERY hard to obtain the piston started if it is extended too far - common if pads are nearing the end of their life.I actually had to use a pair of groove joint pliers to obtain it started and through the first few revolutions - at it was still hard! It would be amazing if the knob was removable would reveal a 3/8" or 1/2" square socket or any hex-head that would let you to use a ratchet or wrench with. After you obtain it started it is definitely workable using the rhaps too much to ask for at this price. Still glad I had it.
Defective. Rubber boot that covers bleeder value is upside down. Covering the valve makes the cable is too short to attach to the brake pad. Sounds like someone else here had the same issue. So, buy it from someone else. Someone that matches OEM specs.
I wonder what was engineer who designed it thinking... Why place threaded flange behind the plate instead of the front?.. Because the method it is done it just rips off. First time I tried using it on one stubborn cylinder this thing broke. Of course I was able to place flange in front of the plate and still use this thing but I fail to understand why not to do it from begin and avoid braking altogether...Super easy and straight forward modification and this tool would never brake, or maybe that is the point?..
I used this to help with the replacement of the rear brake pads of my 2013 Audi S4. Once the electronic parking brakes were retracted using a Foxwell NT614 ODBII, it was simple to push the piston back to accommodate the fresh brake pads. This tool is not required, but it makes it easier.
This product works amazing on normal functioning brake systems. On my recent brake job, 2009 Nissan Frontier, the lower piston on the driver side caliper was stuck in the deployed position and would not retract. I thought I could use this tool to force it back into the caliper. The product weld failed when I attempted to use this tool to collapse the frozen te: Even though it failed, I ordered a replacement because it works under normal cirtances, and the ability to attach a drill to this tool makes compressing the piston(s) so much easier.
The brakes were tarnished. Rough texture and discolored. I had to hand [email protected]#$%! several times juat obtain them looking like fresh e brake pad hardware was so tarnished it was disgustingly ugly. The rubber on the actual pad looked so dry it looked like it would crumble the first time I tried to apply any pressure to the.. Luckily I had additional pads laying around. These brakes were going on a brand fresh build I place together with a brand fresh frame and ALL fresh parts. I wasnt about to place tarnished parts on it allow alone pads that looked e divider that was supossed to keep the brakes together inside the Shimano box (not the outer box) was in pieces which meant the brakes were moving around in transit clanking around. When I picked up the pack from my doorstep upon delivery I could already hear the parts moving around inside the s, they are just brakes that are going to obtain dirty after the first ride at the track but the principal is I paid for brand fresh material but it looked for from it.Disappointed!Why didn't I return and complain? I didn't have time to deal with it. I was required my bike the next thing versus the functionality of the brakes once I place various pads, maybe the tarnished pads wouldve worked but I wasn't going to risk going down due to brake failure.
The DXR Brake arms are beautiful and solid. Looks to be forged aluminum and not cheapo cast ones. People instantly recognize the DXR logo, so it's got the bling factor even for a poser like e issue I had was with the shoe arm nut. I know I tight it down, but half method down the track, one fell off and I was left without brakes and later needing to walk back on track to look for missing pieces. Although this may be installer error (me), but as this had NEVER happened in the years I rode and fix bikes, I think the parts being little and light had something to do with it.I still love the brakes. I will just be more cautious in checking the torques as I ride.
Replacing Avids from REI on a 24 inch ebmx bike because I had problem centering the Avids. These are not that much easier to center as they are also v-brakes with the small screw but the springs seem better quality and more stable once it's centered. Then the braking is a lot better than the Avids too. Not sure why that is.. I'm thinking mostly it's because of the brake pads that come with it.
The tool worked as advertised. I used it on single piston rear brakes and dual piston front brakes. I had no problem with either type. Except for the handle this tool is all metal which eliminates any plastic in the moving parts.
Used for toyota corolla and yaris brake jobs recently. Works fine, but is too little and had to be adapted with a huge socket to work properly. Kind of a pain but served its purpose. Would recommend finding one with longer thread, but it'll do.
I purchased this set of Torx Allen key wrenches only for the T45 I required to complete a brake repair job on my 2003 Mercedes CLK320. I noticed photos of snapped key ends on other wrench sets, so took a possibility on these as they seemed to have no mention of snapping keys in any of the reviews. My brake caliper assemblies were very tight and I had to exert quite a bit of force to crack the bolts loose, but the Maxpower T45 held up just fine. The key did not feel like it was bowing or bending under all the force I placed on it to remove the brakes and tighten them back up. After the job, I ended up using the T50 to tighten some of the cross-bracing under the car as well. This set is a amazing value for the price.
Beautiful easy tool, does what it is supposed to do. Construction is good, should latest a lifetime. Other related tools on Amazon are more expensive, not sure why you would pay more for the same tool.
Product was as advertised. Changed pads and rotors on 2003 Mustang. Took it slow and simple when depressing the caliper piston. Piston was a small stubborn at first but once it started moving it went much easier. I did place some grease on the threads before starting. Quality of the thrustbolt left some to be desired but for under $20 it's not a tool one would use to create a living with.
Definitely would be easier with longer handles but otherwise member that the brake piston might retract faster than the compressor. I could only obtain around 1/4-1/2 a turn before having to snug up the tool again.
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This is a cheap tool so expect it to work like a cheap tool but it gets the job done. Do yourself a favor and mount the caliper without the rotor on so you have some method of holding the caliper because just holding it in your hand while trying to use this tool to compress the piston was practically impossible on my 2016 Accord.
Works well, but be careful not to chew up your caliper rubber boots when twisting. I happened to message that the pegs were digging into to rubber around the caliper and had to pull it back out of the caliper as I was rotating. Will be cautious if I use it again.
I know it's sorta of silly to be this pumped up about something like this, but this tool completely saved my brake job. I was having a really hard time compressing the rear piston so I could fit the caliper back over the rotor with the fresh pads installed. It just wasn't working. But my Acura forum buddies told me prior to obtain this, so when we couldn't obtain the piston collapsed enough just with the tools we had, we used this and it worked incredibly well. It attaches to the end of a ratchet extender. Then you line it up with the indents on the piston, use the ratchet as you would normally and the piston collapses. If I didn't have this tool, not only would I have not been able to completely the fresh brake job, but I wouldn't have been able to obtain the caliper back on the old parts because it was not compressed enough. So I basically am not sure what I would have done without this tool. It was the best cash I've spent on something so obscure, but SO vitally important.
I've always gotten by doing brake jobs with needle nose pliers on those twist turn rear pistons some vehicles have. It was it was so rare to actually come across one of those calipers, as mostly all the family vehicles are Toyotas, Kias, or Hyundais. I had to do all four corners on my brother's Honda and I just didn't wish to mess around any more and picked up this brake dice. Very convenient and fits several sizes of calipers. This fit his Honda Accord perfectly and created it a breeze to obtain the rear piston back in to the caliper.
This tool got the job done but it has issues. I used this tool on the rear brake calipers for a 2014 Ford Flex. It would grip the notches in the piston but it would not stay centered on the piston and would hold popping off. It took about 20 mins a piston to drive it all the method in. I think you would be better off buying a more expensive tool that would stay centered on the piston. The additional $15 for a belter tool would be worth the aggravation and time spent to obtain this one to work.
Works well as an all around tool for an assortment of rear disc brake applications, in my case a Chevrolet HHR Super is 3/8'' drive for simple screwing down of the disc brake piston important on newer vehicles without shoe type drum inside the rotor like for example older Chevrolet Corvette cent quality associated with Lisle tools however created in China for those that would wish to know origin of manufacturer as I do.
Works very well. I use it to clean brake calipers and hubs on cars. I've been using this heavily for several months and it is holding up well. The bristles are spreading out a bit (not unexpected) but not falling out. Will buy again when it's time.
This didn't work well for me at all for my 2009 Honda Accord. None of the points really fit the piston well because they kept slipping off. It was extremely frustrating trying to use this tool. The feet were too short, uneven and badly machined. I'm going to return and buy a better tool
Works as advertised and appears to be a high quality product. Just ensure the metal prongs are fully seated during each rotation of the brake piston as some reviewers complain about the product (not just this brand but others also) when in reality it is due to 'operator error'.
this works amazing for cleaning dust and debris and light corrosion from brake caliper brackets and hub surfaces. it is well created and the handle feels very amazing in your hand. it is thin so it gets into smaller grooves and between lug nut studs. the latest one i bought lasted several years of beautiful constant use as a professional auto mechanic. i bought another one because the wires were breaking off of the part with the curve but i still haven't thrown it away because there is still plenty of bristles left
This tool definitely got the job done for cleaning all the grime off the hub, the calipers, and other brake parts. However, the metal bristles on the brush are now very bent after doing the full brakes on my car. I could probably obtain one more use out of this tool. I would have expected a tool to latest for more than one or two brake changes.
This did the job. I used the side of the cube with the 4 notches at each corner. Just attach to a 3/8' ratchet w/ extension, fit this cube in the caliper piston notches, and then turn clockwise while pushing in. It took me min to realize it was working and then give it the full beans but once i did worked great. Again no other tools needed except 3/8' ratchet w/ extension - i think i used an 8" extention, but anything over 4" should be fine so you have room to turn the ratchet. Must PUSH while tightening ratchet.
This is the excellent tool I required to change the brakes on my wife’s cx5! When you are using it just don’t over do it and take your time! This tool provides plenty of grip and will obtain the job done easily if you take your time and don’t test to create it more complicated than it really is. Example the first side I was trying to force things when all I required to do was slow down and let the tool to obtain a grip and then turn without trying to use it as a socket!
I just installed Power Stop brakes on my fresh to me 2007 Toyota Corolla S. When watching YouTube videos I tried to hold a list of all the things people said to buy in order to do the brake job. This is one of the products that kept popping up so I thought it must be good. When I went looking for reviews and saw all the 5 stars I knew I was on the right track.I used this items on the slide pins, under the brake clips, on top of the brake clips, on the ears of the brake pads and I covered the entire back of the brake pads with this items with no ill effects. I was unsure where all to use it (which is very stressful) but in the end I got it done. The fresh brakes have no squeals, shakes or rattles so I guess I did it right. I would definitely buy this lube again.
I am not a mechanic, but I did buy this product for my caliper slide pins which I'm assuming most buy this for as well. I did see the fine print that it's for metal-metal surfaces well after the fact. I think virtually every caliper pin has some rubber components (boot, bushing, etc) so this label is of of the deceptive/false advertising is this printed on their amazon page "assures that critical caliper pins, sleeves, BUSHINGS and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life." --the bushings is the interesting part. Bushings are RUBBER. This cannot be used for rubber so that is an outright lie. The directions say two various things.Other than that it seems to work amazing on the metal to metal. I am just irritated that I did not read the fine print, place this on my caliper slide pins 3 weeks ago, then realized I had to take the caliper pins out and thoroughly clean the pins & rubber boot with brake cleaner & a rag THEN apply the proper Silicone Paste to re obvious directions please.
When used correctly, this items simply can not be beat. It works. After thoroughly cleaning slide pins and applying this lube, this items has saved a lot of customer calipers from otherwise certain r all those that are leaving negative reviews because this product swelled rubber components.... READ THE PACKAGE BEFORE LEAVING NEGATIVE REVIEWS. It specifically says for METAL TO METAL CONTACT AREAS ONLY. Don't leave negative reviews because you couldn't read or follow directions. This items is simply awesome when APPLIED PROPERLY
My father and I do a lot of brake work(and other mechanical work) for people who go to my parents church. Its volunteer work mostly for older folk who are on fixed incomes who cant afford the crazy high fees that a "real" garage would charge them. The vehicle owner buys the required parts and we volunteer our time to install those parts. So we do a LOT of brakes and bought this grease to support us do the jobs right. This items is amazing and the price is right. Helps create us look good. Lube up caliper sliders to prevent sticking and uneven wear and place some on the back of pads to reduce the possibility of chatter. If all you do is your own brakes every couple of years then you dont need to buy a bottle of this stuff. Just obtain a couple of little squeeze tubes of it at your local auto supply. But if you do even several brake jobs a year then grab a bottle of this.
I bought this 2 years ago to safe cash and now I'm just done replacing 4 calipers on our car. Why on earth do they create a brake lube that is not rubber/plastic safe???In the future, I will use this product on metal to metal only or just dispose of it and obtain something that works.........
I am so sick and tired of going to pep boys for that little tube of brake grease everytime I do a brake job for myself or a friend. I asked if they have anything bigger and the respond was always nope. Well, now I am so satisfied I have found what will hopefully be a lifetime supply for me on here. This items works amazing and FINALLY, I don't have to go ping everytime I do a brake job!
This grease is suitable for metal to metal contact points only. I'm giving it a 1 star review because the packaging does not state this and even says to use on rubber boots and seals! The marketing is doing people a disservice here and putting lives in danger. The packaging needs to clearly state metal parts only.If you use this on most rubber brake parts, they will swell to 2x their normal size after some time. If your calipers have metal pins that slide inside of rubber sleeves, the brakes will seize up beautiful badly eventually. I fought my brakes for a few years before coming to the realization that the Permatex grease was swelling the rubber bushings and binding up my calipers. The purple ceramic Permatex grease swells rubber too. Permatex does create a rubber safe red silicone based grease or you could use Sil-Glyde.
Makes rubber swell up, causing sticking caliper tutorial pins. Obtain *silicon* caliper grease fore you buy, check online if one of your car's tutorial pins has a rubber bushing/sleeve on the tip. Not referring to the dust caliper clamped shut six months after I replaced the tutorial pins because the rubber sleeve swelled up inside the caliper bracket is product turned up when I searched for silicon caliper grease. It isn't! Re-reading now, it does say non-silicon, but not prominently two stars because the other caliper tutorial pin that is metal-on-metal without a rubber sleeve still slides OK. So it does work as a lubricant, but by far *not* a universal caliper grease product.
So about two years ago i replaced my brake pads and calipers and then over the summer I got a little vibration in my steering wheel noticeably i could feel it from the front drivers side tire and noticed my brakes would squeal when i came to a stop, and they were feeling spongy which i thought was weird. when i got home took the wheels off thinking maybe the caliper had some rust from the nasty Wisconsin winter, went through everything even bled all the brake lines with fresh fluid thinking that would support but didn't reapply copper anti-seize as there was still some on the pins, i just smeared it around. well needless to say it came back about 2 months later, and at this time the one pin on the drivers side was dry, i am honestly surprised it did not completely seize up on me, well all that aside i reapply anti-seize liberally, and figured i was done but my brakes still felt a small spongy. well i begin hearing it again this spring which was about 6-8 months after the two incidents happened and i obtain the wobble back in my steering wheel, totally thinking crap i am going to have to just redo the caliper at this point, i call up one of my amazing mates who is a ford master mechanic and he tells me to stop using the copper anti-seize oddly enough created by permatax and switch to either this or the Ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant as they seem to work much better, knowing i don't do brakes very often i just buy the small 5 oz. bottle to test it out, and for the latest 7 months i have seen better brake performance, and my brakes are no longer spongy, for the price i want i would have bought more, who would have though the anti seize was my issue all along .