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100 Reviews Found
Love it.-Well made-Easy to use-Turns a 5 min job into a 30 second oneSo, like a lot of of you, I have done a lot of brake jobs using the old pad and a huge C-clamp. The issue is that with various styles of brake calipers it can usually be hard to search a spot for the c-clamp to press versus where it won't hurt the caliper and also be straight. This is the right tool for the job. Sure, it's a $33 tool that i'll use once in a while, but after using it once it appears as though it will latest forever. I highly recommend ep in mind, this is the single-piston type, Lisle also makes a spreader for double-piston calipers. If you're unsure of what type of caliper you have, you should either google it or you shouldn't be doing your own brakes in the first place.
I think the most necessary thing you need to consider when buying a flaring kit, is how often you plan to use it. I work on vehicles for a living, but in the south. No snow, no salt. Very rarely do I see a rusted through brake line. And the ones I do see are vehicles from people that moved from up north. So I may use this tool 2 times a year. In that case, this is a excellent tool for that type of use. It'n not a amazing tool. But it's much cheaper than a nice hydraulic flaring tool, like from say Eastwood, or Mastercool.If you create lots of metal lines, then go for the better tool. This tool is finnicky to use, but it will create a beautiful much excellent flare, if you use it properly. Create a nice clean cut, debur the line, lubricate the adapters, and put the line correctly in the tool. All of these style flaring tools create it simple to mess up your flare. So obviously it's on you to attention to what you're doing. The kit comes with instructions to create the bubble and double flares, but you can watch videos online if that helps more. Everything in the kit appears to be beautiful amazing quality, except the tubing cutter. The blade was beautiful dull right out of the box. I would invest in a better cutting tool. Sure this one works, but it takes forever to cut, and risk making an unclean chop with a dull for my needs, (maybe twice a year use) it's perfect. If you're making hundreds of flares per yer, I'd look at something else.
This tools included with this kit are robust and work well. I had previously purchased the OTC 4504 Stinger ISO Bubble Flaring Tool Kit (ASIN: B0015PMZMU) and it sub par. This tool makes nice bubble, single, and double flares.If you are using Copper/Nickel lines, don't use too much pressure with the deburring tool because it will gouge the line. It does work okay if you are careful. I use a countersink bit on a cordless drill instead of that tool and think the bit does a more consistent job.I actually tried to create poor flares (e.g. no lube, no deburring, slightly crooked ends, etc., but it was is is a very nice kit for a DIY'er. Buy it and be happy!
The handle comes off when the Piston is fully pressed on and you have to use vice grips to release. Don't think that the plastic knob will release the pressure, it doesn't. Large pain. That nut underneath the black plastic had to be turned (hard) to release. [email protected]#$%! was all steel and the knob worked both ways, but it comes off. Glued on. Pay a small additional for a amazing one (I look for too, but better but ONE amazing one than 2 poor ones)
Just a heads up to anyone needing to do standard size bubbles. This kit states in specs it will do 3/16” - 1/2” bubble flares but it does not include either the dies, or the proper holes in clamping bar, for anything other than metric 4.75-10mm. See pic. I expected OTC to have better quality and accuracy on their advertisements.
Not created in USA. But since the motor companies found a need to re-invent the end of a line with the bubble flare. Time to another tool or YouTube it with the double flare is tool gets the job done and comes with all except tool to taper outside of line, so a file is still needed. Quality is amazing enough to latest a backyard mechanic forever but not a tool that will be proudly handed down to grandson. LOL. But gas cars with hydraulic braking systems will not be what your grandson will ever own. tom line for a complete kit IMO worth the one and done cost. If no loaner is available at parts store.
I'm a professional mechanic and I've been using the Lisle break pad spreader(it's really a caliper depressor) for about 8 months now. I was worried after seeing the poor review here on Amazon, but after searching and finding no other viable options I bought this. It appears to be the same unit that the Matco truck guy sells. The quality of the unit seems exceptional and has held up amazing for me so far. I could see this unit possibly breaking in the wrong hands. It works amazing it you squeeze the handle slowly as the caliper will not wish to move easily. If someone tried using this on a frozen caliper or the ratcheting style calipers I could see it breaking due to misuse - I'm not saying the other reviewer did this, I'm just surprised that his unit broke so easily. A caliper shouldn't require extensive amount of strength to depress when using this tool, if it does the issue is probably with the caliper. The metal it is created out of seems plenty solid and in no method did it seem as as the other reviewer led me to believe. If mine broke today I would definitely another one, this is an essential tool for any mechanic or diy'er.Update 2/13/13: This tool is still performing great. I just helped a buddy do his front brakes and although he insisted he had everything to do the job(he did), I brought these along just in case. I handed them to him when it came time to depress the caliper and he kind of looked at me funny. At first he wanted to use his trusty C-clamp but I insisted he test this tool. I showed them how they worked and allow him test them out on both calipers. At the end of the brake job he was asking who created them and where he could obtain them. It's just one of those tools that some people don't even know exists, but once you do you wonder how you lived without it.Update 8/28/15: I've been using this for well over three years now and it's still working great. I also purchased the quad piston caliper compressor and the pad spreader by lisle and they all work equally well.Update 2/23/17: It's been 5 years now and this tool is still working like the day I bought it.
I guess I got lucky compared to some of the other reviews I have read where the brake pad spreader they received broke after the first use. I got my Lisle 29100 Fast Quad Pad Spreader in 2012 and it broke on me while compressing a quad piston brake caliper. The handle broke away from the piston mechanism as documented by other reviewers. I believe the handle is created of painted aluminum. If Lisle had created the handle out of a stronger material this tool may have lasted a long time. Time to search a fresh brake piston compressor and this time it will not be one created by Lisle.
Worked fine for 3 flares and then was destroying the lines every flare after that. I was using steel so maybe you won't have a hard time with copper nickel lines... however it was not right for me. Large kudos to amazon for refunding my though. That was not expected
I was super satisfied to test this thing out, the issue is that it does not work. There is no type of system that increases strength through leverage, so you have to squeeze your hands together as hard as possible to test and obtain the caliper to move. This tool would not move my caliper even the smallest amount. I had to resort to using a c-clamp in to compress the pistons.
One can use a C-Clamp or a screw-type piston compressor to push a piston back into a caliper - both take some time to set up, and time to use. As a flat-rate mechanic - any tool that saves me time allows me to finish jobs quicker and be able to do more work in one is dual piston compressor works immediately - just pull the trigger. it works just like a caulk gun, but it is WAY s - you can use it on a single piston caliper - you just have to position it so that the black part grabs the caliper's finger, and the pushing part is square on the piston. This is not the designed use for this tool - but I search that it still works e Lisle single piston tool that looks somewhat related to this one does not work as well as this dual piston one.
It does exactly what it's designed to do, and it does it just fine. If you're buying this tool, you probably already know this, but you need to use an old brake pad or something like that to allow the tool work versus -- this tool will not work well on it's own without the old brake pad to press against.Honestly, if you have a c-clamp already, just use that. And if you don't have one, you can probably search a suitable one at Harbor Freight for half the of this. I don't exactly regret buying this, but it was also kind of a waste of money.
This tool is supposed to do bubble flares, it doesn't. I tried this with copper line and no matter what i did, I couldn't obtain a amazing bubble flare out of it. I followed the directions to a T. Overall, it's just not a amazing product. Definitely not worth the price.
This thing is really amazing quality. Tough, massive metals. I've rented flaring tools before that can barely grab the brake lines. This thing WORKS. Created 2 various kinds of flares for 2 various vehicles (bubble flare and inverted flare) and both worked great.
I was looking at a brake job on a Yukon, and figured I'd test this gadget 's also a fairly needless luxury.Was it slightly handier than using a C-clamp? Yes.Was the slight handierness worth the I spent on it? Not really.Will it look cool when other guys see me doing a brake job? Probably.I don't regret buying it, but I wouldn't replace it if it broke...which it probably won'@#$%!&[email protected] beautiful solid. If I did brakes every day, I might, and that's a huge 'might', search this worth the money. A C-clamp can scratch calipers, and it can be a hassle on roundy surfaces. This solves those issues in an elegant, easy manner. The pro might care about such e cons are, it costs more than a few C-clamps, it's very bulky in comparison, and it's an additional tool to hold track of. It's also kind of weird to use until you obtain it figured out, after which it's if you like a lot of tools, you have additional in your pocket, you wish to impress other dudes, or you're a pro, this is just the thing.Otherwise, I suggest you go with C-clamps.I am giving it 5 stars, because it does exactly what it was intended to do, it is very well made, and I don't feel ripped off.
The shipping company had some delay on the road. Since I had a long weekend available to replace my brake lines, I couldn't wait for the shipping problem to resolve itself.I bought a more expensive set at NAPA. I'd resolved to send this one thering all my Popeye-ness, I doggedly created up endless double flares. After a while, the NAPA set began to crack at an eye, admittedly, getting a lot of time, I just had to return the locally purchased now, this set had GHT and DAY better e threads are finer. You don't need quite so much e flares seemed to come out cleaner (given that I was fresh to double flares and I'd gained experience and had developed a bit of a method).The transitions from one process to the other was is unit is better designed, appears to be better materials and had no e tube cutter isn't as amazing as any of the Rigid cutters I have. I ended up using one of my mething I realized, it is often stated that the tube ends need to be chop square, de-blurred on the inside of the tube, beveled inside and should be simple to chop square with any of the tube actice, if you're fresh to double flares. But, a wonky flare may not be due to a out-of-square cut. I believe you can obtain the same effect if your outside bevel (I filed mine) is not even all the method around. If you have a segment of the tube end with a thicker wall, after you bevel it, I do not think you can force it square in the flaring process. Just too much the end thickness as you bevel the outside. Obtain it beautiful close to even all the method around. Then de-burr/bevel the eat set, gerat price. Nice case.A total truck even stops now!
I bought this six months ago so I could replace the brake lines on my old truck without taking it to a mechanic. After attempting to use this kit to double flare 3/16" steel brake lines several times, I've come to the conclusion this is a terribly imitation of a professional-level rst off, it's obvious OTC saved some on materials by making the clamps so short it's hard to obtain it to stay in a vice using the small 1 inch bit of steel that hangs off the end. Just another inch or two and this would be so much easier to cond, in to hold the tube from slipping through the vice, you have to crimp it so hard that it gouges and burrs the tubing. As a comparison, I've noticed that the flared lines that came off my truck have no witness marks like the ones this creates. But OK, you only have to sand off the burrs so it doesn't cause the flare nut to hang up, not too huge of a ird, the threaded portion which is used to force the flaring tool into the tubing is very cheaply made. The hint of the tool wobbles excessively because the only thing holding it straight is a short section of a poorly threaded shaft. When you go to form the flares, the wobble in the hint causes the flares to be formed so far off-center that they don't seal well and you obtain urth, after the flaring is complete and you pull the tube out of the clamps there are large burrs on the outer flare since the clamp halves don't line up well and won't form a excellent fth, the tubing cutter is so dull it takes ages to chop steel tubing. The cutting wheel feels roughly equivalent to a butter knife. A $10 Harbor Freight tubing cutter runs circles around the one this kit comes with. I'm not even sure why they contain it, OTC would have been better off making the rest of the kit l in all, every latest flare I've done with this tool has leaked and I've tried just about everything to create it work. It seems like the off-center forming of the inner flare coupled with the burrs and corners on the outer flare create this tool fundamentally unable to make amazing is tool is a case of 'you obtain what you for'. There's no method I would trust my brakes and my life to the not good performance of this tool. Not recommended for anyone, no matter how it is.
Nice relief for tired arms when placed in middle or amazing starting point to climb to other o stars for including a bottom supporting line that’s to short to use with primary kit. They could’ve created this less expensive by leaving this is company needs to all stuff separately, and provide a longer bottom 8 & 10 yro children LOVE it!!!
While the net is sturdy, be sure that the bottom strap that comes with this is long enough for your ninja line. We ordered a ninja line and this as an accessory but couldn’t use it because it always needs a bottom strap to secure it to the ground. The strap that came with it was much shorter than our ninja line so we couldn’t use it. Children kept getting stuck.
I was really irritated with this product until I came back to amazon and looked at how they had the unit assembled, and then I felt beautiful stupid. The black pointy plastic piece is inserted into the bleeder fitting. Look at the assembled picture of this unit. The hose does not go over the bleeder screw.
For me and my purposes this was an Unnecessary Purchase. If you intend on flushing the brakes Do Not Waste your on this product. The container is very little but I knew that from the reviews and I did not actually end up using it. I bought this because it was and might come in handy. The supplied tubing was method to little to fit my GM 1500. In the end I found a longer piece of clear tubing in the correct size ran into a milk jug was method easier. This allowed me to easily see the change in fluid color and ensure a proper flush and I was never worried about over flowing the container.What I did search helpful during this process was the Motive brake bleeder pressure tank that I purchased at the same time. I found some peddle pumping still important for a full flush, but it keeps your fluid tank full of fluid so no air gets in the system as you pump the brakes and makes thing much easier.
Used this to bleed the brake lines on a GL450. The plastic on the bleeder kit is weak and breaks off easily (my first one broke). The magnet is not powerful enough to keep on to the vehicle with bottle full of fluid. Lastly the included tubes are too little for a GL450 caliper. You'll need to create an adapter to fit it over the GL450 bleed valve. This kit is probably amazing for one or two jobs...
Absolute junk that doesn't work. Send me the $7 and I'll send you a sticker. While the technique works, just his implementation doesn't. Oh, and before you release it's junk, too late to return it as the bottle and hose is now a mess with brake fluid all over the place. What a POS.
A few problems. First, the description claimed that there is a one method check valve at the bottle to allow the brake fluid flow one direction. It isn't there or doesn't work. Fluid goes through both directions. The check valve needs to be there to be a one man bleeder. Second, the tubing that is supplied is too little to fit on a bleeder screw. There are some adapters in the pack but they will not keep themselves in the bleeder screw while you pump the brake. Third, the magnet fits loosely in the bottle and will not guarantee the bottle to stay place will pumping the brakes.
What is this, a brake bleeder for ants?? (it's a Zoolander reference for the uninitiated)I base most of my Amazon through product reviews, but this time I ordered in a rush and didn't read any. I certainly won't create that mistake again anytime soon after this useless piece of plastic showed up at my rst, this thing is method to little to be effective for anything larger than a cond, I picked this up for about 5 seconds to give it a squeeze, and any printed text my skin came into contact with was promptly transferred from the bottle to my palm and fingers like a temporary ird, do you think the quality control is very high with a product that no one could figure out that they spelled "label" incorrectly?If I could send a note to my past self prior to clicking the button, my words of wisdom would have been to spend that on tacos instead. Or literally almost anything else. Seriously, don't waste your on this.
The part with the magnet on was broken when I got it. I used it on part of the job, anyway. It's really too small. I wound up using a glass jar instead, since the magnet broke off and the little plastic bottle was too light to stay upright on the ground. Buy some tubing and use a jar, it's less trouble.
I wanted to bleed the brakes on my 1986 Dodge van. The tubing would not fit over the bleeders. Tried every thing I could think of to obtain it on the bleeder. Heating it up, stretching it etc. There are still millions of older cars on the street with the old style huge bleeders. Why can't you in contain a .10 cent piece of hose to fit the larger bleeders. I don't know the diameter of the bleeder itself but it takes a 3/8 inch wrench. Beautiful standard at least on older vehicles.
Used this to flush out my old brake fluid. Does the job well. Very inexpensive and must own tool to have. Much easier, cheaper, and faster to use than using a vacuum tool. Excellent for bleeding air out your system but if your flushing out all the old fluid, just use the provided tubing and route it into an old plastic soda bottle for larger volume capacity.
Hello all,I am very glad with the purchase. The pack comes with everything you need to replace the brake fluids for your motorcycle. The reservoir to catch used brake fluid is very little and enough to do one wheel of motorcycle and need to discard the used fluid before you can do the next wheel. The package comes with everything you need. The magnet on the bottle is very useful to stick it snugly to the brake rotor on the (see photos) motorcycle's l in all, am very satisfied with this purchase, thanks.
I have old vehicles two of them an old mustang and a 2000 BMW it is becoming a hobby and if you are a do it your self home mechanic you need this. I did the breaks on both vehicles latest weekend and it worked well. It was simple to use but do follow the instructions if you have never bled your brakes before. It is necessary to do hold the air out and have plenty of stopping power.
Pulling old break fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir was not an problem at all. However, bleeding from the bleeding screws pulled air bubbles due to not having a tight seal. I even removed the black bleeding adapter from the tube and connected the tube directly over the bleeding screw. Still pulled air. I ended up bleeding the brakes the classic method by having my son pump the break pedal. I'm extremely disappointed on the results. Don't waste your on this break bleeder, do it the old method by having an assistant pump the breaks.
This is a pneumatic bleeder and NOT a hand pump design. If you have an air compressor, this will create brake bleeding a one-man job vs two. The convenience on this is super beneficial because it will save a lot of time and create the job easier than es with two lines: one to bleed the brake lines and one for siphoning the brake reservoir. The one for the brake line has a black nipple attachment that does a amazing job at sealing the line. The siphoning line is amazing because it has a rigid plastic curved tube at the end to hold in in place. It can ALSO be used to siphon other fluids that don't have a drain plug (e.g. some transfer case, and differentials). Tip: use a hose clamp (I used an earless clamp) to clamp down the plastic tube to the rubber hose (see pic). The fluids can cause the tube to detach from the hose. It didn't happen with the brake fluid but when I was cleaning it I noticed that the tube became loose. It's insurance to ensure it doesn't detach during fluid transfer and getting fluid everywhere.I had to attach the pressure bottle directly to the compressor because I didn't have the hose attachment for it LOL. Works fine. It will pull fluid when you depress the handle on the bottle. The blue knob is to relieve the s a amazing product. Seals tight and simple to use. It'll become more versatile as you obtain various hoses and sizes for various applications.
If you are like my hubby and a do-it-yourselfer you really need this brake bleeder kit. I actually purchased it as a bonus for him but it is also a bonus for me too. After helping him bleed breaks a million times it has to be my least favorite thing. Not that it is difficult its just annoying however very necessary. With this handy tool my hubby no longer needs my support to press the brakes on and off to obtain all the air out of the system. He can do it all by himself and its not hard. This kit is designed to vacuum out all air bubbles with ease. The reservoir tank is very helpful and beautiful mess free. We used this kit to change my breaks and it worked like a charm. There were no leaks and he was able to obtain the job done in half the time with no mess! Each piece feels like it is quality made. It isnt flimsy or cheap. The hoses are and very bendable. It was simple to hook up to my vehicle and use. We are both beautiful impressed. It is well worth the cost if you work on your own cars or support others with theirs.
Perfect. Exactly as described. Boyfriend does all our vehicle work, and we just had a fresh garage installed so I have been ordering tools and things he needs for the garage to surprise him. As well as mine AND his breaks required changed lol. He was super excited about this brake bleeder, as brakes is a common item to replace lol! He changed his brakes the other day and loves this. He said the suction is powerful and it makes changing brakes so much easier. 5 star product, 5 star quality. Very amazing pricing.
One of the largest problems with bleeding hydraulics is having to pump out the air bubbles. In most cases you need to have somebody in the cab pumping the clutch or the brake until all the air is out. What is nice about this system is that you can do it yourself at the source. You easy just hook up this kit and your off. It vacuums out the air bubbles so you are all set right out the the gate. Save yourself the problem of having the hold opening up that bleeder valve (how man have you broken doing this on older cars) over and over again. This for itself the 1st time you use it. Save yourself time and energy and pick this up and be done with your brake and clutch jobs quickly
I was struggling to obtain the air out of the lines after a complete break replacement: fresh Power-Stop rotors, calipers, and carbon fiber/ceramic pads. My wife was a champ pumping for me and it would seem to flow without bubbles. I'd obtain in to drive and the pedal was never firm. I tried a hand pump ver that I'd purchased to work on vacuum problems but it just didn't do the job. I'd pump the vacuum to 25-20mmHg and bleed it down to between 10-5mmHg. My hands would obtain sore from pumping and it just wasn't getting enough fluid/air e largest advantage was the reservoir refill bottle. My Jeep has a little reservoir, with the bottle I wasn't constantly having to obtain up and check the level and I was comfortable pulling a amazing bit of brake fluid/air out at a time. As reviews complained, you do obtain some air flow from around the bleed screw threads, that's to be expected with this method. Just hold the air flowing while you tighten down the bleed valve. Begin at the furthest caliper from the reservoir and work your method closer. I didn't time how long it took but I had all the air out in a very short period, much faster than the old method or the hand pump. I want I'd've bought this before I started the brake upgrade. Next year I'll be changing fluid again, but to DOT4 or DOT5.1.
My husband does all the vehicle repairs in the family (he's a mechanic by trade). Well his birthday was coming up and he kept on hinting on method to create his brake fluid changes easier. Well I took matter in my own hands and asked his mates if there was a method to create it happen. His amazing also mechanic mate advised looking into a Vacuum Brake Bleeder Air Brake Bleeder Kit created by FOUR UNCLES. He swore by it and I went on the limb and bought it. It arrived well packaged and in a giftable box. My husband was very excited that following day he had to give it a try. Allow me tell you that I haven't seen a smile on that man ever while he did the brake work before on our cars... I take it as amazing tool and simple of use. Give it a try
This brake line bleeder kit contains two hoses. One of them you would use to pull brake fluid right out of the master cylinder. And the other hoes has the connector which connects to the bleeder valve on the brake caliper. This is the hose that I used and this is how I used this kit.1. Filled up they refilling bottle with Dot 4 brake fluid which my vehicle requires. Pulled out the filter on the top of the master cylinder and set it aside. Turned the refill bottle upside down and inserted the end into the top of the master cylinder. Tightened up they clap with the thumb screw. This ensures that brake fluid being evacuated from the cylinders is replaced with brand fresh brake fluid. This ensures that no air gets into brake lines.2. Always begin with the rear tire farthest away from the master cylinder on the opposite corner. My master cylinder is right in front of the steering wheel, so I plug this into the brake caliper on the passenger side rear wheel.3. Connected the vacuum unit to my air compressor fast connect fitting. And connected the caliper hose which also has a fast connect fitting. Then connected the other end of the drain hose to the brake caliper bleeder valve.4. Then I opened up the valve and pressed and all on the vacuum. I watched fluid come out and waited till I got about an inch to an inch and a half of fluid on the bottom of the vacuum container. I then close the valve and removed the hose from the valve and place the tire back on.5. I then did the driver side rear brake caliper the same way and drained about another inch of fluid.6. I then did both front brake calipers. These have less fluid in the lines because they are closer to the engine. I got about another inch to an inch and a half combined from both of the front brake calipers. On the 4th brake caliper I could see cleaner fluid coming into the vacuum container. I closed the valve and both front wheels back on.7. I then turned on the vehicle and pump the brakes to build pressure. I place the vehicle in reverse and backed up a small and braked a couple of times. my brakes work perfectly and have brand fresh clean brake fluid.8. I poured the dirty brake fluid into the empty dot 4 brake fluid containers and I'll take them to my local hazardous material drop off brake bleeding kit was very simple to use and I'm very satisfied that I found it.
Normally this is a 2 person job for me but with this bleeder, I was able to do it myself. The reserve tank has more than enough zone to keep the fluid that was in my car. The suction on this was very fast. Normally it takes quite awhile for fluid to drain but with this suctioning, it created it emptying a lot easier. The trigger was also simple to use. The shut off valve and clamps create this one man job go so much faster and I was able to do this with one hand. The clamps and valves had no leaking even after being turned off. Refill bottle is no mess and makes putting the fluid back in the system simple with no mess all over my driveway because of the valve on it. Each hose is long enough to drain and refill. Didn't have to rig anything and everything was simple to use.
This tool makes brake bleeding jobs a one-person operation. It works well in ensuring that dirty fluid can be removed from the brake system w/o allowing air to create its method back into the system while bleeding the brakes. I had no problem using this when I replaced the calipers, rotors, and pads on the rear wheels of a 2007 Honda can't beat the and the quality is decent and the box it came in can serve as its storage box too.
Works perfectly. Tested on DOT 3 and 4. Tested on a fresh bottle and showed less than 1% water, tested on old car and showed over 4% water. I saved me from a poor job, I tested my brake fluid and it showed over 4% moisture took it to the and said the brake flush was never performed after they tested with their machine they agreed and completed the flush retested and all good. Invaluable tool, now I know not to take my vehicles to that shop.
This tool is very useful for spreading brake pads, I will also search other uses for it in the shop. However, you will search at times the screw is not long enough to push the pads back far enough for reinstallation of fresh brake pads. A trip to the hardware shop should fix this.
As a class 8 mechanic I have bought the lisle brake pin tools but they would roll the threads with in a month . If you work on class 8 trucks and do brakes the correct method this is the tool. Works grate and is one piece solid metal don't have to worry about it coming loose and damaging the tool . When and if I wear it out I will them again
If you've been bleeding brakes or clutch lines the old way...stop. This turns a painful operation into something so easy you'll wonder why you've been doing it wrong all these and fresh master/slave clutch cylinders, fresh brake master, fresh rotors, and fresh brake lines. It took barely 30 mins to bleed all of them *by myself* with this tool.
Probably the best "cheap" vacuum pump out there. Mityvac has been around for a while, and has a range of items from to good. For what you obtain with this, you can't beat the price. However, it IS on the cheaper end. So if you abuse it, use it incorrectly, or test to treat it like it's one of the higher-end metal versions, well, don't come crying when it breaks.I see a bunch of people complaining about the longevity of the pump, and then mentioning how they have brake fluid in the pump. You're not supposed to draw fluid into this pump, and if you do accidentally you have to clean it out or corrosive fluids (like brake fluid) will eat the seals. I also see people complaining about how it's not as accurate or strong as their $$$ tool (which they apparently have but aren't using for whatever reason)...and again, duh, this thing costs less than $30 so don't compare it to more expensive higher-end tools and expect the same 's a very amazing vacuum pump. I use mine for vacuum line testing, brake bleeding and valve checks. My latest one lasted for nearly 5 years.
I have a snap on air hammer and the tool won't push pin out I have a press for that any method I bought these for the bushing tool. sometimes it will push the bushing out and sometimes it won't and sometimes it gets stuck halfway
I'm not sure why there are so a lot of poor reviews for this, but it is a amazing product. This is my second one since I accidentally ran over my first one. Both have been very useful for much more than bleeding brakes. Priming lines, removing liquid from low locations (in the home as well) and checking for vacuum leaks just to name few. Both of mine have had very acurate guages and have never leaked. I took a picture comparing the readout to a beautiful expensive industrial guage. The container to catch the brake fluid is 120 ml, which is plenty to bleed your calipers. If you are flushing your entire system, you will probably have to dump it twice per wheel. It has a vacuum release lever which is useful for repeated testing (distributor vacuum advance etc.) It has held vacuum for about 20 mins for me in the past so I guess other reviewers have either gotten a dud or were not using it correctly. Amazing product, lots of various fittings and a solid design. As long as you don't run over it with your car, it will latest a long time.
I am gonna go with "Great Small Vacuum Pump". Worked fine for me in a few days of problem shooting some vacuum smog systems on my old e assortment of try connectors is nice, maybe a few I'll never use, but you never know. I read the other reviews, but the pump worked amazing for me. I was really pumping a couple times, and never a problem. You can use the pump/gauge to measure the vacuum the source/vehicle is running at. Amazing troubleshooting tool. I can say, I love my Mityvac. I have not used to bleed brakes yet.
I bought this a year ago and finally got around to using it for the first time today to flush the brake fluid on my truck. On the first wheel cylinder I pumped it to about fifteen pounds of vacuum and the handle fell off. I found the metal pin that attaches the handle and after about ten mins of effort I worked it back on. Pumped it a second time and the pin shifted and fell out again. Now that I look over other reviews a second time it seems clear that others have identified the same defect. I can't understand why Amazon would continue to junk like this or why the manufacturer would not take steps to correct the not good design. What gives?
I've only tested it a few times, but it will keep a vacuum for a long time. It also moves more air than I expected. Doesn't take long to pull the air out of a little vacuum chamber. I'll be using it to pull a vacuum for resin stabilizing of wood for wood turning.
I love this tool! I saw it on a YouTube clip and decided to look at purchasing one and boy am I glad I did! I always used a screwdriver to push the pistons back in which at times was a bit tricky. With this tool it literally took my 30secs. It was so easy! Every or home mechanic should this tool!
I have a MityVac MV8000 brake bleeding unit which was purchased less than one year ago. The user's tutorial clearly states a 1-year warranty on this unit, but the manufacturer's customer service told me they would not honor it because it was purchased from Amazon. They would only honor it if purchased through some other authorized distributor. I'm sure this is not legal, and they're probably counting on people not to pursue this because it's only $is is the very first time I've run into a product where my warranty claim has been denied solely based on my location, as if I had bought it off the back of someone's trunk at 2 in the morning.
Complete garbage product. First time using it the pin that activates the pump fell out. I found a method to re-insert it so the pump would suck again. Then fluid started shooting out of a little hole by the pressure gauge. This unit is plastic and cheaply created -- handle comes off over 15 psi. Do not this garbage. There's $40 down the drain.
device provides perfect vacuum power, and the main plastic pieces seem well constructed, but several genuinely poor design decisions create this one of the most infuriating devices to use. the handle that you squeeze to actuate the device is fixed to the pump via a little pin perpendicular to the pump shaft, which is retained in a slot in the plastic lever, such that when you squeeze the handle, the pin rides in its small slot, and pulls the pump out, thereby providing you with your vacuum. here's the problem: that pin is A, very tiny; B, held in a shaft that is to rotate; and C, constrained in its movement by plastic. what that means is that the pin will slip out of its hole in the pump shaft, which causes the whole device to basically fall apart in your hand, probably while you are under the car, also meaning that it re-introduces all of the air that you've been trying to evacuate back into your hydraulic system. the pin is very tiny, and the vacuum pump is actually quite powerful, which means you now have to test to finagle the pump shaft out far enough to place the pin back in there, but at least everything is super slippery because you, and it, are now covered in brake fluid (and the inside of your hydraulic system is now very suddenly not).i hate this thing. i hate it so much i cannot even.
I have mixed feelings about this device. I had to do a complete brake line replacement that took me about 24 hours of labor and required a device that would support me obtain fluid back in the lines and eliminate air bubbles. Well it was extremely difficult to obtain the hose to fit tightly enough to eliminate air from seeping I’m around the hose connection on the bleeder valve. It took a lot of time just getting that figured out. In the end, the hose was fitted so tight that that it actually stretched and ripped when I pulled it off but it still bubbled. Not an simple job but this tool did support a bit. You also have to constantly check the master cylinder to create sure it does t obtain too low.I just think there are probably other devices out there that may be more helpful.
Have only used it once and it confirmed a vacuum leak on a van. Van is now fixed so I say it works as advertised, but with only one use can't attested to longevity yet. I do recommend this product.
This items covers well, just follow the directions & mask off locations you don't wish paint on. Regular painters mask tape works fine. Be sure the calipers are very clean, mix the 2 chemicals, & it takes 3 coats to do a amazing job. First coat will look bad, but don't worry. Be sure to allow it dry at least 15 mins between coats or you will obtain brush marks. And don't use the crap brush supplier with the kit, it sheds bristles all over. I got a home Depot little brush kit for $3.50 thatworked well. You have only a certain window of opportunity to do these once the reactor is mixed in with the paint, so plan accordingly! I topped the calipers off with white Brembo stickers, came out amazing in my opinion.
This is a amazing kit. Comes with everything you need. The brush isn't the greatest but useable. I only required this for one pair of front Mustang cobra calipers. I ended up doing 5 coats and still had plenty to do another set if needed. The finish is amazing. It's hard to imagine getting this amazing of a finish with a rattle can. I did a bit of research before choosing this kit, and I'm glad I did.
I've purchased this same brand of paint in a various color before and I've had amazing results. I think Silver or Grey in general is a hard color to work with in my experience. It's not very forgiving and it shows every imperfection. With that said, if you follow the instructions and thoroughly clean and prep your calipers before painting you will have exceptional results. Before painting the calipers create sure you have everything setup and ready to go because this paint does dry up fairly quickly. Follow the instructions when prepping the paint as well. However, when painting especially with this color I think the 15 min wait period in between every coat can be ignored. I would personally tip everyone painting with this color to test to take your time and apply even coats the first time around. Like others have stated the more coats you add the more the paint seems to begin to present scratches and imperfections. The trick is to really test to obtain the best looking finish on the first coat and after that only add small touch ups here and there. The instructions will tell you that there's enough paint for 3 coatings on all calipers which is true. However I wouldn't recommend more than 2 coats of paint if you can't obtain it right the first time. Overall I really like this brand they create amazing quality paint and the complete kit has everything you're going to need to obtain the job done. I agree with others that the brush is very cheap, but if you take your time and apply the paint carefully it will obtain the job done. I'm satisfied with the results of this project and highly recommend this caliper paint kit over other brands. The duplicolor paint kit is related to this one but the G2 brand is far superior in quality in my opinion. This silver color is really nice because it does give the calipers a cleaner and brighter look.
I doubt I'll be able to break this. Can't say that about the Created in China versions I have used in the past. Those just don't keep up. The OTC created for an effortless rehab on the front end of a very rusty old Ford truck and an old CJ. I know what I just did would have broken those lesser tools. This is created to be used with (or without) an impact wrench. Totally solid and very well made, even the case. If you plan to use this tool once, just go rent one at the local parts store. If you think you will use this multiple times, it is totally worth the higher price. Plus MADE IN USA! Thanks OTC.
I'm not huge on car mods. I'm also not not particularly handy when it comes to cars, so the thought of doing anything that involved the brakes on my vehicle scared me quite a bit. I watched a lot of videos on how to paint calipers to obtain comfortable with the process and create sure I knew what I was doing. I also looked at the different options (spray paint vs. brush painting) as well as reading reviews on the different products and manufacturers. In the end, it seemed that G2 was the best fit for me and I'm very glad I created the decision.I chose to paint the calipers on my fresh Audi A6 during a stretch of days in January that averaged in the high 50's and low 60's. Even the company warns that you should only apply the paint between 56 and 70 degrees F. Given I was in the ideal temperature range, I dove right in!Given my vehicle was brand fresh (2017), I didn't need to spend a significant amount of time to clean the calipers as they were already beautiful clean. I did, however, focus on taping and masking off the parts of the wheel that must not/cannot be painted. I also purchased artists brushes that work with enamel paints. I did read that the brush that comes with the kit can shed. I honestly didn't see that, but never gave it the possibility and used my brushes anyway.I was able to add four coats of paint to my calipers. The first coat took some time and was a light coat. The latest coat gave it a final, smooth finish. I chose black to match the black-out look I was going for with my A6.I didn't have any issues applying the paint. There were times when loaded too much paint on the brush and it dripped, but I was able to fix it easily. I waited at least 15 mins between coats. Truth be told, I purchased two kits. It was impossible for me to place my car up on four jack stands, so I was only able to raise one wheel up at a time. I would paint one caliper, allow it sit for 2 hours, then place the wheel on and move to the next wheel. I have heard that some people have successfully chop the paint and the hardening agent in half to save for later. I didn't chose to do that as I feared I'd not have the right amount of hardener to paint and eventually the paint would fail. Once all four wheels were completed, I waited two days to cure. G2 says wait 24 hours, but the temperature in my garage dropped at night below 56 degrees so I wanted to give it more curing time.Once cured, I took the wheels off again and applied high-heat transfer stickers to the caliper to finish the look. I am very happy with the results and would recommend this product to anyone - as long as you have the time to devote to the cleaning, prep and painting as required.
Ultimately I'm glad I went with this product over an aerosol based caliper paint solution. While I almost took one star off for the not good quality paint brush that is included and the fact that this is a small harder to obtain a amazing clean finish out of your paint job if you don't mix the paint CONSTANTLY as you're applying it and apply it sparingly and with lots of patience. These are all things that can be easily r instance, the not good quality brush looses some of it's bristles almost from the obtain go. If you tug on the end of the bristles and play with it, most of the loose bristles will come out almost immediately improving your chances of not getting one loose and stuck on the paint as you paint the caliper. The fact that you don't need a primer is excellent. However, don't allow that fool you, you still need to properly clean the caliper and remove any previous paint or finish if you wish to this look right and have a higher possibility of sticking properly. Also the fact that this paint requires an activator makes it stronger and more durable in my opinion. But you need to constantly be mixing it as you're applying it, not just initially after pouring in the activator into the paint. This keeps it from coagulating and causing uneven app of the paint unless you're interested in wet sanding and polishing it later to a brilliant shine which is otherwise not so, this kit comes with everything you need to do this job. Enough paint to paint 4 calipers at least 3 coats each. The paint comes in a container huge enough to mix without spilling or even risk of spilling as you mix. Activator so the paint is only ready to be applied when you're ready to do this job. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to aid in cleaning the calipers prior to painting. Paint brush that is usable though you need to either obtain your own at Home Depot or Lowes or prep this one as stated above. A Popsicle stick for mixing. And instructions as well as a G2 decal if you wish to use lying this paint is straight forward, maybe easier than an aerosol spray paint. But you do still need to take your time and be very careful how you apply it thinly but in multiple coats to obtain everything amazing and not obtain runs or orange peel. I do think this paint will end up being stronger than the aerosol type of paints and protect versus brake dust and other street grime and the environment in general. So I rated this product 5 stars despite it's few weaknesses. I would definitely again and highly recommend.
I've used this items on all our brake calipers so far. Red, black, and silver. Silver I would suggest spraying because if not you see brush strokes. Red came out looking amazing on my truck, and black thus far is the most gloss out of all of them. It is ALL in the prep work.Every time I have taken a wire wheel on a angle grinder and completely stripped all the crap off the calipers... I feel like this is KEY!! If you just spray the brake clean you are asking for problem a couple years down the street as it will peal.Overall I would say if you have the opportunity and the time to clean your calipers properly and have time to allow them sit and cure this is a amazing way to create your calipers look better.I have found that the 24 hr cure time is incorrect. On all three vehicles I found that it takes roughly 48hrs for the paint to fully cure. After 24 hours I can still take my finger nail and leave a depression in the paint. That tells me it's not ready and I would NOT drive the vehicle for fear that the heat and the brake dust would then obtain embedded in the paint and you'd never be able to clean them right or create them look nice short of re-doing the entire job.Other than that, use a various paint brush because they are garbage with what is included in the packaging. I tried a foam brush and that was horrible too... Go to a huge box store.. But the 97 cent brush and then take scissors and chop the bristles down by half. You have a firm brush and you don't waste the product by it being absorbed by the long bristles..
Love this tool, very handy. Mostly used for ball joint install and removal. Local snapon guy sells these for like $250. Bought mine for $110 on Amazon. No complaints. Very powerful tool, handles air gun abuse well. Sold mine to another mechanic when I left the dealership but currently I'm looking to another one.Update: Ordered another one. Same amazing qaulity. Love the plastic case for storing and transporting tool. Has two additional pockets for extra press fitting. Works well with Astro press kit. Bought this tool since I have an axle ball joint job coming up. Amazing to have around, handy for u-joints(if you obtain the drive line out of the truck). Don't know what else to say other than "Great tool!"
Installed the rear sensor so far. Installed in reverse of taking the sensor wire off. Installed in the fresh brake pads very simple and restart the dash warning system with no problem.Will install the front sensor in about 2500 miles when the front pads need replaced.
This was definitely not an simple task to apply and when people say it takes all day they are not kidding. My project was my wife’s 2016 Mustang GT. I found 1 video on YouTube applying this paint on a related Mustang and the guy basically said he would not do it again if he had it to do again. He said that instead he would take off the calipers and obtain them powder coated. It wasn’t worth the time and effort and I almost would agree. I learned from his mistakes and instead of painting them still installed on the vehicle I removed the brake pads and the calipers with them still connected to the hoses of course but I pulled them loose so I could obtain to them and paint all sides. Only have 4 to 6 hours once you mix the paint with the activator until the paint is no longer usable. So create sure you have all of your prep work done and everything taped off because the paint does obtain everywhere. Also due to the size of the front calipers I purchased a 1 inch brush from Home Depot which is a must. They basically supply an acid brush in the kit to use as a paintbrush. I did use this for the little detail locations and crevices. Another small trick I did was I had some heat shrink tubing that I used for the bleed valves to hold paint off of them. I ended up putting three coats all the method around until I ran out of paint. It got difficult to remember where you had latest painted on the calipers after you apply the second coat. It definitely looks amazing and we will see how long the finish lasts.
Got a Harbor Freight Ball Joint press I bought for $89.00. Was doing ball joints on 2001 Jeep XJ. Got one upper joint off, tried to obtain lower off, it just kept turning, and turning. Loosened it up. The C was bent so bad, jack screw wouldn't go through bottom hole anymore. Ordered The OTC 7249, Got the other side done in about 30-45 min. Worked great!!!!!! This was less than $20.00 more so why is it sooo much better!!!!!!!! You can see the quality difference in the two side by side.
Excellent except I had to use a piece of 1/4 plate as a cap since all the cylinders are begin ended and one required to be capped to obtain the ball joints pressed back in correctly. No biggie since I had a piece laying around but seriously, this would really have @#$%ed me off if I couldn't have found a method to rig it up. I bought the Jeep kit to go with this and still had to improvise. Something that easy like a capped cylinder should not be missing from this kit. I ended up cutting a little piece up to contain with the kit in the future. Other than that, MADE IN THE USA! stamped right on the side, no bending on the clamp and my ball joints were a pain to remove. Used a bunch of anti-seize to create it easier to remove next time and fresh ones sat just fine once I grabbed that 1/4 plate to finish the job. Both caps that you see do not let the screw to sit on either one. both have holes that allow the pin slide through (one as intended), but one is just slightly huge enough for the pin to obtain jacked at an angle when trying to use it as a cap to seat on the cylinders. I know it's hard to explain but it's a true pain in the ___.
I am really impressed with the quality of this MADE IN USA tool. The C-Frame is much much thicker than other presses I have had that failed. This tool is forged and won't crack like the el cheapo HF Chinese versions. The forcing screw threads are super smooth. I am an old mechanic. I have worn out a lot of related tools that were Created Poorly in China . I finally got intelligent enough to stop wasting my and MADE IN USA in the first place. You must follow the directions and use an EP (Extreme Pressure) rated lubricant on the threads. All brands of black colourful disk brake wheel bearing greases have the EP lubricant additive Molybdenum DiSulfide. There are also some specialty EP oils you can find. Treat this tool right and it will latest forever and then when you are old and crippled up, you can it on eBay for more than you for it now.