superclean 100790 32 ounce automotive accessories Reviews & Opinions
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This product works exactly as advertised. Fits my 40 oz Hydro Flask quite well. The cup holder fits snugly in my 2016 Versa Note, and also in my 2007 Tribeca. The 2 removable plastic size adjusters plus the neoprene sleeve create for a super tight fit. Once the cupholder is installed it is snug and takes a bit of effort to remove (that's a amazing thing!) Highly recommend, and would buy again.
Thrilled to finally have a method to hold my giant water bottle upright and not have it tossing around my car! This product is so thoughtfully designed. You can tell that someone place a lot of time and energy into making this product work for a myriad of vehicle cup holder designs. It comes with multiple adapters to create it work in a lot of cars. The seller sent an email to me after I purchased the item that I could actually answer to if I had any concerns. The item came with directions. It came with the offer of refund and return shipping if it didn't work in my car. There's even a how-to video on their www service (that I didn't need because it was so well-designed and came with directions, but it's just further evidence of the care that the seller place inot this item). All in all, this seller just went above and beyond. I actually rarely write Amazon reviews (shame on me), but I did for this product, because it not only works well, but I could tell that the seller really cares about having an perfect product. Wow! I am another satisfied BottlePro customer.
OOOOOMMGGGG!!! This is the bomb!!!!!!!! I have several 40 oz Takeya bottles (that I actually got at one of the popular warehouse stores beginning with a C...because the price was soooooo much better than on here....sorry amazon!) as they are the 1ST bottle I have gotten since I moved to FL 23 years ago THAT DOES NOT SWEAT AND truly keeps my drinks COLD for at least 24 hours or more!!!! BUT......they would not fit into my current cup holders in either mine or my husband's vehicles thus having to wedge it behind my purse on the passenger seat or keep it if my hubby was driving!! I decided to test this!!! PERFECTION!!!!!!!!!! My bottle ABSOLUTELY DOES NOT TIP OVER....and I have created some quick sudden stops (due to other not good drivers 8>( ) or taking too quick of a turn (my doing in my fresh sports car!!) They have thought of EVERYTHING.......ADJUSTABLE SIZING........AND A SNUG FIT!! What more can you ask for! Do NOT hesitate buying this!! You will be so glad that you did! I am one satisfied camper!!! TYSSSVVVM BottlePro!!!!!
We have a 2013 Honda Accord, and it fits very well in the cupholder (we use all rings, and add the included rubber strip from the seller). It allows us to place our 40 oz. HydroFlask with a HydroSkin cover easily into the cupholder. Only caveat is that sometimes, just because of the silicone HydroSkin we add to protect the flask, the Bottle Pro will stick to it and lift out of the cupholder altogether. It does not happen if we do not have a silicone skin on the 40 oz. Not a huge deal, and we just set it back in the cupholder. We intend to use a thicker piece of rubber wrapped around the Bottle Pro to stop this; we just haven't is is in no method a ding on the manufacturer, but just in our experience: for those of you wishing you were NASCAR, if you take that left turn too quick and have a full 40 oz. flask in your cupholder, you may just upend the whole thing into the passenger seat of your car. So...either take that sharp left at a legal speed, or place your right elbow on the top of your flask as you are screeching around the corner. I'm just saying. rfect for our needs, and addresses what we required it to. Quality product--plastic is thick, and the adjustable rings are included (some manufacturers might create that an add-on/accessory item, but this one doesn't--awesome!). We would purchase as bonuses for others. Seller included a note stating that if we required to return it, to hold all parts and contact them, and they would send a postage-paid label to return at no cost to us. Sweet! But we don't intend to allow this go back to anyone. Nice to know the seller stands behind their product, though. Fully recommend. Will post pictures with measurements later.
I purchased this to use in my 2017 Jeep Cherokee Latitude, which has surprisingly little cup holders in both the front and back. Two of the BottlePro 2's will work in the holders at the same time (an initial concern) to keep two 32 ounce Hydro Flask containers, which was my hope. The included neoprene sleeve used on the outside of the lower portion of the holder does create for a snug, wiggle-free fit, which is a nice suming you're not going over multiple speed bumps or off-roading, your beverage containers should stay in the holder just fine. It does create things a small top massive and obviously they sit higher in the holders than if your container was dropped down into it as designed by the car manufacturer. The build quality of this item seems very good, but as with all things plastic you should be somewhat gentle when nesting it and taking containers in and ing this product in my car does mean that I can't comfortably rest my forearm on the armrest without bumping up versus my drink container, but honestly, that was expected. The beverage container easily slips in and out of the holder, and has very small free play (wiggle) while riding in it. The cup expands somewhat due to its begin design to accomodate a lot of sizes of drink containers. The bottom section retracts out to fit three various sizes of cup holders which makes this a very versatile e price was a tad high (sixteen shipped...) and thus I got one and not two initially. I will probably buy a second one as I now know it will work - not overlapping into the other drink holder in my vehicle.
It does not fit a 2016 Mazda CX-5. The top of of the drink holder is flared out so it will not keep this steady, and this extender does not go deep enough to compensate. This might work fine on some other cars, but if you have a drink holder that is deep and flared out at the top I would recommend something else
I have been using it in my 2015 CR-V and it's great! It fits in my cupholder well, but does have a small bit of zone around the base. I can easily solve that by adding a small bit of PVC pipe insulation around the base so that it won't wiggle back and forth. But so far, it hasn't been a issue for me and my 32 oz hydroflask! It fits so well, and hasn't fallen out of the cupholder, even with those turns. This item seems very well made, and is very sturdy; there are 2 extra extenders to support fit your cupholder. I am very happy with my purchase!!
I refinish wheels professionally and I normally use Custom Store Grease and Wax Remover Surface Prep and I decided to test this items out to save some cash and it didn't work at all. I used more than the Custom Store per wheel and I was left with a lot of fish eyes. So I switched back to Custom Shop, it's more expensive but it's worth it.I gave this 3 stars because wheels have a lot more silicone and grease on them then any other part of the car. So it takes a lot of cleaner to clean them and this items may work on spot repairs around the car. But for wheels or any zone that may have a lot of grease on it, I don't recommend this, use the Custom Store brand.
I was inspired by the low cost of this to compare to a higher end pre-paint prep product with acetone/alcohol mix.I'm an overkill sort of guy, so the more wicked fragrance something has, the better it's going to work, right? This is an exception to that guideline.I haven't found anything that isn't removed by this cleaner that is removed by the more potent cleaners, it works amazing for removing sticker residue, and a lot of locations I'd normally use alcohol. This DOES need more time and agitation, but it will remove most things left after normal soap and water cleaning prior to painting. I still follow it up with isopropyl alcohol, but paint doesn't seem to mind either method if I use the alcohol, I use the alcohol to ensure surface is dry.If trying to do things quickly, the single step quick evaporating cleaners are still a better choice. For removing stubborn grease and glue residue in general household use, this items is also amazing with no risky fumes!
I've used "professional" or industrial wax\grease removers that have high levels of solvent and are impossible to use in closed locations or without a respirator and ventilation. Products that will react with uncured finishes and sometimes plastics. This is NOT that is is simple to use (the squirt bottle is a nice touch), and doesn't smell terribly. It seems safer to use, and I haven't had it react negatively with anything. That said, it clearly does not work as well as those more expensive more aggressive industrial products. This might not be the best product if you have something that definitely has silicone on it.What this product is amazing for is cleaning before and in between sanding, and doing a first-pass cleaning just before paint. I use this items all the method through the prep process, and then give the final wipe down with Acetone or sometimes Alcohol depending on the project.I have not seen any weird reactions with metals with this product like you sometimes obtain with generic spray de-greasers.If you don't need the strength of a real industrial wax/grease remover, this items is easier to use, method cheaper, you obtain more of it, and it still works.
Totally junk worthless. Either they sent me plain water in this bottle or it’s so old it’s not working at all. I apply this to my panels and it never evaporated. It stays until you wipe it dry. This product is supposed to be wiped on and it evaporates after you apply it but it doesn’t.
This product when cleaning the vehicles surface seems to take off not just dirt and grime but seems to create the surface look like fresh ,I found that wonderful because it almost seems like mostly water when it comes out of it's bottle. I highly recommend this for surface renewal especially before waxing or polishing.
A amazing water based wax and grease remover but you should probably search something in a gallon, you will be able to use it sparingly and not feel like you're going to run out because this bottle isn't even filled to the top (hint: that's why it's not a clear bottle ladies and bodymen)
Purchased this for a craft - making trivets out of tiles. This product provided a clear coating to preserve the painted design on the tile. With a trivet, it is of course important for the finish to withstand heat from a hot pot or pan. Indeed it does (I applied 3 coats), and the decorative top of the trivet remained unmarred.
I bought to paint my 5.3 LS engine. I used the Rustoleum 500 degree engine primer first and then painted this over it. Nice Chevy orange on my LS engine looks amazing in my 1968 C10 pickup. I recommend this product for the amazing quality paint results i achieved.
Purchased this paint for some touchups on my Ariens snowblower. I read this was related and it's much less expensive than the Ariens touch up paint. The match is extremely close (show vehicle close? no, snowblower? absolutely) I sprayed a piece of scrap metal before spraying anything on the snowblower. I purchased 2 cans of this for 1/3rd the price of one can of Ariens paint shipped.
Learned this the hard method a lot of times. I restore Ariens lawnmower and snowblower decks. This Chevy orange matches Ariens orange exactly, and you must dust it (spit coat) first so the next coats have something to hang onto. Wait for all color coats, up to 3, to flash (about 5 or 10 mins each) and then apply the clearcoat. 2 coats of clear is perfect. This paint flows very well and after a few mins the topcoat will blend together just be patient. Remember, the hotter and drier the air is the faster it dries! Trust me, if you wish to wet sand and fix a run or whatever you must wait a MINIMUM of 6 months in warm temps for it to cure so test hard to obtain it right the first time. Patience and light coats is the key.
This paint works well, comes out of the can well, and it's shiny... the only issue is that it takes longer to cure than the can says. I painted one side of an engine with the primer and paint, allow it set for at least 19 hours, flipped the engine over and painted the other side... When I picked it back up, the paint stuck to the cardboard I sat it on, so I had to touch it up. The paint flows well when it dries. I saw some spots that looked like the paint wasn't sticking, but as it dried those spots filled in. Doesn't seem to do well with second coats, because they don't seem to dry smooth, but rather bumpy. The first coat is as amazing as it gets.
I've recently rebuilt a motor and decided to paint it. I used a can of Dupli-Color engine primer as a base and then sprayed this over the top of it. The Rost-Oleum engine paint has a really crappy nozzle, it clogs very easily and either sprays method too much or very little, so it's a very inconstant application. If you warm the can up to about 75F before hand it does go on a small better but it's still hit or miss on an even spray. I much prefer the Dupli-Color style nozzle.
I bought this product to conceal several huge chips to my Weber kettle BBQ top after it landed on my patio when I dropped it . The color did not quite match but was close enough to not stand out too much , the paint went on well and I did not need a second coat . The BBQ has been over 500 degrees and no issue to the paint . Next summer I think I will spray the whole top and it will look amazing again . Amazing product that stands up to so much heat and looks amazing .
I paint the underside, frame and wheel wells of my trucks with this low gloss black paint. It seems to keep up well and sure makes things look nice. I would recommend it to anyone. Hold an eye on them, especially if you're going to buy a lot of them like me, the price goes method up and method down sporadically.
Amazing product. Take some time to dry up, but worked on my car's exhaust pipes, and rusted parts under the vehicle very well. Even if it lasted for one winter, I can top-up before next winter so that my vehicle remains protected from developing rust while the street has too much salt, snow, and water.
First allow me say I purchased this product in hopes of renewing natural unpolished 15 year old leather chairs and ottoman. These chairs have survived four dogs, countless punk rockers and their spikes and chains, and have been the favorite chair of family and friends. I hated to obtain rid of them but they were looking beautiful scuffed and shabby. I’ve used leather conditioners and cleaners in the past, but never thought the end effect was noteworthy. The Leather Honey Cleaner is a various story. It comes as a concentrate and is simple to use. You mix an ounce of concentrate to a cup of water. I mixed in a spray bottle and was was able to spray on and wipe off. I was horrified by the amount of dirt I removed from the chairs. I also used it on red leather sofa and chair that has a more finished shine. I am really happy with the is review is meant for the cleaner, but I also purchased the Leather Honey Conditioner. I initially used a lint free cloth for application, but I found using a little paint brush was more effective. Those old leather chairs were so dry, you could almost hear them soaking up the conditioner! The chairs look like new! I was concerned that I was getting too much on, as the conditioner is very thick and sticky, and was very visible. Within two hours the conditioner was absorbed into the leather! I purchased the 16 ounce size of conditioner and used over half of the bottle on the two chairs and ottoman.I will definitely purchase again! Amazing product!
I wait a few weeks before I review a product that I've purchased on Amazon (even though I obtain those emails constantly to review the product method before it arrives). Two months ago we purchased an Infiniti QX56 that had a lot of stains in the leather and it was apparent that the previous owner never conditioned the leather and/or cleaned it. So I looked around for something other than those conditioners you search at your auto parts store. I've used those in the past and while they did an ok job then... I'm glad I didn't go that route this time. I followed the directions as instructed and left the product to settle in overnight. The consistency is very oily and a small does go a long way. I cleaned all the seats first and then applied the leather honey. By the time I was done with the front seats... the leather had soaked up the product and figured what the hell... let's add a small more. It sat overnight and when I began to clean the seats the morning after wiping any excess off the seats... the shine and supple feeling of leather was back. The stains were gone and the interior looks brand new. I've had problems with other leather conditioners in the past where you sit down and all the residue/oil is left on your clothing. Well, I can tell you I had no issue with this leather conditioner. I recommend it and I'm sure you will be satisfied with the results.
This is my first review on Amazon because I really wish to share how amazing this product is! I'll hold it short and sweet. I bought this product because I've never seen so a lot of positive reviews on an Amazon product before -- 5 stars with over 2000 reviews. I love white and cream leather but it's a pain to maintain. As you can see from my pictures, the product did wonders to it! Pictures shown is just my first time using it. I can't wait to use it a second time to obtain my stuff even brighter and restore it.
STAY AWAY if you dislike or are allergic to Chemicals. My daughters Convertible took some hurt from Hurricane Irma this past summer. Do to the ratings we tried this to support clean things up. We where a small hesitant to use it from the moment we opened this product, due to the powerful chemical smell, but since it is to be diluted we gave it a chance. Wrong.... We mixed this with into a 32oz bottle, the smell reduced a bit. We did this over Thanksgiving break, 1 Month later the Vehicle still smells like this crap. I have turned to Griot's Garage Products to re-clean the whole interior. Griot's Products have done a amazing job at reducing the smell. For the record the Leather Honey Leather Conditioner, smells great, it is a coin toss to the Griot's.
This product worked exceptionally well. Be sure to follow the instructions for dilution. It's critical that you do a little zone and wipe it off with a clean towel before it dries to obtain the dirt up. I use a little brush to agitate the dirt better. If you use a brush go in as a lot of various directions as you can on to support obtain the dirt out of the wrinkles. I took a halfway through the cleaning of my ottoman to present you how well it gets the dirt and oils off. Please know this couch was overdue for a cleaning it did not remove the dye from the leather. The lighter color is the original color of the leather the darker half has dirt and oil making it look old and worn out. I used a bowl to mix it a cup at a time and another bowl of clean water to clean the dirt off before dipping the brush back in the leather cleaner. It was late and I didn't feel like running to the shop for a spray bottle. Using the bowl way I would say the 8oz bottle is enough to clean a huge sectional twice if it's as dirty as mine was. Possibly more if you do it more frequently. We condition ours more than we clean it.
Perfect product. I bought the set of both leather cleaner and conditioner. My 15 year old leather sectional hadn't been cleaned or conditioned in 3-4 years because I couldn't search anything that worked well on an analine-dyed leather without causing it to look e color (Hunter green; not my choice, people!) was also fading and I thought it was a goner. After a LOT of elbow grease, the sectional looks great! It's now back to its original color without being blotchy. More importantly, the suppleness has returned. I can actually say that it looks as amazing as the day we bought it.Word of advice: You may need to purchase 2 of everything if you're cleaning a large couch or couch and loveseat. I cleaned/conditioned a six-seater sectional and a recliner, and had absolutely nothing left.
This leather cleaner ruined my $1K jacket. I tried removing a pen stain with it, instead it ate into the fabric and ruined its color. Image attached.
I recently bought a secondhand RV that has cream leather sofas in it. I searched for a product that would clean but not create the sofa slippery. This worked really well on it. I first tried a spot you couldn't see to create sure it would not change the color or stain the leather and that came up fine. So the next day I dived into doing the full cleaning. Each sofa has 3 sections and by the time I got to the 3rd section the water was so dirty! The next day I did the other sofa and they both look so much better than before!I think one hint I would give to someone wanting to test this product is to maybe rub it down with plain water first. Maybe that with take the massive dirt off so you don't have really dirty water by the end. Squeeze out the cloth really well too so the leather is not getting soaked. Another hint I would offer up is when I got to a stain that didn't wish to move, I rubbed it with the grain of the leather and it seemed to work well. It didn't take a lot of elbow grease at all to do and that was a huge plus! The driver and passenger seats are next and I would say that will be the end of the bottle. I stuck with the instructions as far as 2 tablespoons to one cup of water. I will buy another bottle for sure!
I’m so annoyed that I believed all of the amazing reviews. This items is a rip off! It comes in a little bottle and you have to dilute it in an entire cup of water. All it did was rub out the color of my beige pebbles leather purse, it did NOT clean it! Very unhappy!
I will admit, i had no idea what to expect after reading some of the negative reviews but man was I wrong! This items is GREAT! I will say that it helped watching a video on YouTube of the product in action. I actually took the tip from a YouTube video & purchased an empty 32oz squirt bottle from Target, filled it with water & then added the entire bottle of leather cleaner as directed. POOF! Stains are gone! The only thing that I regret not doing is taking a picture of the before. Amazing product!!!
This lid fits my wide mouth Hydroflask perfectly. I’ve even thrown it in a bag and it hasn’t leaked. It makes it simple to obtain fast drinks of water through the day without having to twist off a lid.
I have 3 wide mouth hydroflasks and this lid is just as amazing as the original. It’s just as pictured and I loved that the lid has this type of handle. It’s easier to carry around. The only downside to this is that sometimes the straw comes loose and you end up drinking half air. Aside from that, it’s a amazing buy and I will be purchasing another one soon.
This was an perfect alternative to buying the expensive Hydroflask sip lid. It gets annoying having to unscrew the lid every time I wish to drink, now I dont have to. I love that it has additional straws and the cleaners too. The handle is amazing and fits snugly where I dont worry at all that it might come off! Its all created high quality and is a amazing price!
i had purchased another off brand of the lids with straws for my hydroflask and within days it started leaking through so i am so satisfied that so far this is leak proof. the straw comes a small long so i just had to chop it to fit my own hydroflasks length.
This works very well on my daughter’s hydro flask. It feels well created and it doesn’t leak. It comes with an additional bottle straw and a brush to clean the straws. Much cheaper that purchasing directly from hydro flask
Fit my 2000 Lincoln City Vehicle perfectly. Took care of that pesky engine light for awhile anyway. Plenty long enough to obtain inspected. These older vehicles tend to have a dozens of small issues. I know I had an evap code previously, so I thought this might help. Initially I restart it and then when I got about 75 more miles on my vehicle the engine light turned back on. Noooo! So I got this cap, installed it (very easily) and restart it again, this time getting 500 miles before the engine light came back on. I haven’t checked the code in awhile to determine what the problem is, I just know there has been intermittent “evap” problems triggering the engine light in the past. The engine light seems to come on almost immediately after an oil change, which is odd. If anyone has any tips, feel free to allow me know!
My latest gas cap had the o-ring separate from it, so I bought this as a replacement.I haven't really thought about it again until I posted a various review on Amazon, and the website asked if I wanted to review it. If I am not thinking about it, I guess that means it is doing its job.
My engine light was on for a while and the lady at a local auto parts shop said it was the gas cap!?? So I bought this and after the next fill the light ceased so it worked! Only problem with it is that I have to keep it while filling up because I had to chop the original one loose and there is not another strap to allow it dangle during filling.
Excellent fit for a 2001 jaguar, only one reason for the 4 star rating. It does not attach to the wire that holds cap while fueling so you'll have to old school it and put cap on your car and then remember to place it back on before driving away.
Miraculously I lost my gas cap a while ago for my Honda Element. Bought a $12+ replacement cap from Autozone and the “check gas cap” warning kept blinking ever since I replaced it. A lot of times the warning kept appearing after pumping cently a unique check emissions symbol/light appeared. That’s when I had enough. I bought the Stant gas cap on here and it arrived a day ter applying the Stant gas cap (which seems like quality) the light went away and I had no more warnings. Before buying this cap, I called a Honda dealership in Atlanta and spoke to the parts/service department. They must have thought I was on some mega meth because they were quoting me $65+ for a replacement gas cap.Overall, the Stant gas cap is great, it turned off the warning lights/messages, and has turned out to be a quality replacement.
Was having some check engine lights with code P1443 and sometimes P0172. After replacing the Evap canister purge valve and still getting the code, I did some more research and the fuel cap can do that (at least the P1443 code). I replaced it and the codes have not been back since. I guess the 17 yr old Subaru cap could not latest forever. I adapted a ball chain to the cap so it won't obtain lost.
When my 2003 Toyota Corolla's engine light went on, I had it checked by a mechanic who informed me that a broken rubber seal of my gas cap was the culprit. I decided to store around to see if there were less expensive alternatives to the standard/authentic parts. In my case, a "genuine" Toyota gas cap would've set me back about $15, which I thought was a bit much. So after checking around with different, compatible low-priced brands, I decided to give Stant a shot. A few fast observations, and YMMV (no pun intended!), but I found the cap a small smaller and a small harder to twist on and off my vehicle than the original part. Secondly, the engine light problem wasn't an instantaneous fix. It took a subsequent full tank refill and extra driving around before it went off.
The cap looks and fits amazing on a '99 Honda CRV. This fuel cap is amazing quality, it's durable fastens tightly, and like I said; it's a excellent fit for my '99 Honda CRV. Things to note are that this fuel cap is smaller than my stock cap in exterior dimensions so it fit with ease inside my fuel door, the other thing to note (as I'm sure you can see) is that this has no cord to keep it to the car, nor can one be added. This is what I miss most about my old fuel gap, instead of just letting this one hang you have to take it off and place it somewhere at the pump, although it hasn't happened to me I'm sure that some people will forget this cap at the pump because it's out of website when you're done l in all, if you can obtain over not having a cord to keep it in put when the cap is off then this is a amazing replacement cap.
this #10834 fits the gen4/gen4.5 toyota camrys for years 1998,1999,2000,2001. seems to provide a amazing seal and not draw any CEL codes after using the fresh cap for 6 months.if there were a complaint to be made, i would say that the cap surface is a bit smaller than the OEM sized fuel cap. this makes it a bit trickier to begin the cap for people with larger fingers or for people who may need to wear items on their hands in the winter. luckily in florida, i don't have any idea what happens to people in winter time.if the smaller cap size is the offset of me paying OEM prices that are double or triple in price, i'll live with it until i develop arthritis.
I replaced my gas cap with this one since I went and had a diagnostic try done and they told me it was my gas cap. They said if I change it, it would create the light go off. So I bought this one and the light is still on. I guess I'll be taking my vehicle to the mechanics now.Update 3/28/19 on gas cap, still looks cheap because it's plastic but once my vehicle was fixed at mechanics everything has been working fine so far.
This is an perfect price for a Fuel Cap, it feels of related quality to the OEM cap, albeit a various style of gas cap for my 2005 Honda Civic Civic had its emissions/engine light click on for the first time in its 10+ years/190,000mi lifespan, which had me a worried. After looking in my service manual, I saw that it stated that a loose fuel cap can often cause this, but also create sure you read your manual because even after its fixed, it can still take 3 days for the light to go away, assuming that was the actual problem. When I first check my gas cap, it felt a small loose and there was no pressure release when I untightened it, so I retightened it (its a 3-click design, don't like it as much as the single-click design the Stant has), and drove around for a day or two, and the light didn't go away, so I decided to order this cap to be safe. By the time the cap came, it was on the 4th day, replaced the cap with the Stant, and the light was still on when my wife drove it to work. But, by the time she drove home, the light was off! I didn't see any noticeable cracks on my old cap, but the o ring did look a small worn down so I'm glad to have replaced it so e gas cap feels solid (plastic, of course), it has a single click design (do not test and overtighten it!), and of course does its job as it ep in mind this isn't a guarantee for the check engine/emissions light, that's just a general warning light and can mean something far more serious, so I don't really agree with the 1-star reviews that claim it didn't fix the warning light problem. The gas cap works fine (assuming its the proper fit), so down-rating something because it doesn't fix a issue it wasn't designed for isn't right.
When the check engine light for my 2004 Subaru Forester went on I decided to focus in on the fuel cap because the light would go on and off depending on how much I tightened the cap, usually lighting up after my vehicle had sat outside all day. I decided to buy a fresh fuel cap from the dealer for $25.00. As a back-up I bought the Stant for $7.00 after reading the Amazon reviews in case the Subaru part didn't workout. Looking at both fuel caps side by side I can't tell the difference except that the Subaru part attaches to the fuel door so you don't have to keep the cap or risk losing it. The fresh fuel cap from the dealer didn't stop the check engine light from going on so I immediately switched to the Stant and the light went out (?). Just amazing. Not sure how this thing works so well, but $25.00 vs $7.00.
Place this cap on and the check engine light went out.... I changed out the O2 sensor about 5 years ago and someone told me then to replace the gas cap. FYI Oriley's Auto and other parts stores can no longer clear codes on the OBD2 so your 'check engine' light will stay on until the issue is l these years and all I required was a fresh gas cap. 5 Stars for being cheap and easy.
Ok so. Iv never had one of these before but figuring it out was beautiful self explanatory.1. Insert key, (has a matching code etched on the side)2. Turn key one quarter to right3. Leave key inserted and twist cap back at's fore closing I remove the key. I close the gas port by screwing in clockwise until I feel resistance and hear it clicking. Mine appears to lock by itself without needing any further messing check and see if its locked grab the cap once fully inserted and spin it. It should spin freely without catching to come anks for reading. If you found my review useful, Smash the helpful button and have a amazing day;)
This locking gas cap is a small difficult to use compared to other locking gas caps I have had for other cars. It's rather confusing if you haven't had one like this. I thought it was broken at first since the key only turns 1/4 of the method instead of 1/2 of a turn (ie: lock & unblock positions). The key only UNLOCKS it. Screwing it on tightly is what locks it. You have to then create sure it's locked by trying to unscrew it again.Due to this odd design, I knocked one star off. It feels a small cheap but then again... it was price wise. Unless you throw it on the ground, stomp on it and run it over with your car, it should keep up fine under normal latest thing I dislike, the keys I got with it do NOT say "GAS" on them like the image shows and like other lock gas cap keys do. Instead it shows a lock code which is also shown on the outside of the lock cylinder. Presumably so you can order a replacement key if yours gets lost? That seems to conquer the purpose of security to some extent if any schmo can walk around with a key ring of gas cap keys and look at yours to see if he has one to fit it.
I've been using this for a couple months.. I think I can actually review it works great, as long as you use it works based on a quarter turn mechanism to unblock the gas cap, so you turn the key 1/4 the method and the cap locks in and can turn counterclockwise, afterwards you have to turn the key back to the locked position before you can remove the key. My only true gripe is that with the little amount of zone in the fuel door compartment, it's tough to obtain my fingers in to turn the cap with the key sticking out, but thinking about it from a design perspective... there's no true better method to do , all in all, this is a amazing product if you, like me, don't have a locking fuel door and you would like to hold your gas in your gas tank and sugar, potatoes, and cheeto's out.
I pulled into a gas station to fill up. I worked for ten mins trying to obtain it to unlock. Luckly I had a quarter of a tank and drove on home. Screwed with it for 15 more mins and finally got a pair of channel locks and popped the locking top off and unscrewed it by hand. I would have been stranded, destroyed the piece of crap, and after taking it off with the channel locks, realize it was a joke anyway. It got ONE star cause it won't publish with ZERO stars. DO NOT BUY!
Amazing cap because it can be locked before putting it back on. I bought another cap from NAPA, and that cap needed me to place the cap back on before locking it. That was a huge pain at the pump, especially in Oregon where you can't pump your own gas. This cap allows the cap to be unlocked, removed, and then locked before putting it on. That makes it simple for putting it back on without the key.
Seems to work just fine. My old cap caused a check engine light to come on. It appears you have to check and replace gas caps on some cars/trucks about every five years. If the vent gets blocked or broken, then the vehicle will be topic to vapor locks and/or not good fuel flow. Only two keys and I need one for every set of keys I have.
Got this and place it on my Ford F150 and almost immediately the check engine light came on for the fuel cap. The factory sensor from Ford does not work with this cap and the light will not only stay on but it blanks out your odometer until you take it off and replace with factory cap or restart it by taking the battery terminals off and resetting the computer. May work with other models but with my truck did not work, Or did work if I wanted to have a check engine light on for the rest of the trucks existence.
I’ve only been using this for 3 days so far, but it’s been great. The lock/key is very simple to use, to lock it you just twist it clockwise 3 clicks. I’m using it in a jeep xj & haven’t had any issues with it setting off the check engine light.
Amazing product, plenty of hose, quality parts for my install on Polaris 800 RZR. This fits excellent with the Maradyne H40012 SANTA FE 12v floor mount heater, on Amazon they give a various kit that by the reviews will not fit the Santa Fe heater, this one fits perfect.
This kit said it would only fit 5000 series heaters, it will fit the H-400012 Santa Fe 12V Floor Mount Heater as well. Kit comes with everything you need to hook up defrosters. You will need a 2 1/8 hole saw to install the louvers. Worked out well on my 2013 Polaris 800 RZR-S.
I have probably thrown away over $500.00 worth of bicycle tubes in my lifetime because the standard pimple looking patches leak over time. The Slime kit comes with 56 patches, 2 abrasion tools, 2 little tubes of rubber cement. Some of the patches are ridiculously big, the size of a billiard ball but there is a amazing amount of the standard quarter size, postage stamp size and rectangular size patches. First thing you message is these patches are very soft and pliable which makes it easier to work with. I am not a large fan of the Slime bicycle tubes but their patch kit is excellent. I have patched a couple tubes and learned from my mistakes so here are the steps.1. Pump up the tube and dunk in water in kitchen sink so you know exactly where leak is, there may be multiple leaks. Circle hole with pen.2. Throw the scraping tools away. I use 100 grit sandpaper to small sand the tube zone the size of the patch you are using.3. Apply the rubber cement to the zone on tube that is slightly larger than the patch. It is much better to have too much cement then to have a corner of patch come loose. Peel off the blue protective tape and apply a thin layer of glue on the GRAY zone of the patch, believe me, I also thought the glue goes on the black rubber area.4. Let the glue to air dry for 2 mins then place on the patch and press down and keep for about a minute.5. I take a piece of aluminum foil and fold around the patch then place in middle of huge book (foil protects the book pages) then I put a massive weight, in my case a huge container of rice on top of the book and I allow this sit overnight.6. After the patch is dry I pump air into the tube just to check that there is no leaks then it is ready to install on your bicycle.
For a guy who owns both a roadbike and an MTB, these are essential. They offer a wide dozens of patches in different sizes and shapes. The rubber cement provided is really good. They have provided a metal scruffers too, but I prefer to use sandpaper to touch up my puncture areas. The patches are of really amazing quality and bond well with my inner tubes. Apply the cement on both the patch and the buffed zone of the tube, blow on air for a min or two and then press the patch firmly, I just stand on the patch which ensures a amazing press. Never have had issues of the patches stripping out. I prefer these to the ready to stick ones.
These are patches designed for use in tire inner tubes. They work amazing for that, when using the included glue. I see that lots of Amazon reviewers have creative uses for the patches, but I can't speak to how well they work for anything but tire tubes. If you use them for tire tubes, you won't be disappointed.If you're a serious motorcyclist or bicycle rider you should carry some of these patches. A street side patch could save you a long walk or an expensive tow bill.I have performed several street side tube repairs with these patches on motorcycle tubes, and they have gotten me home every time. Personally, I replace a tube after I patch it as soon as possible, just to be safe.I patched a friend's tube, on a 500cc dual sport bike, with one of these patches about a year ago. He has place about 2,000 miles on it since an it holds air just fine.
I have used this a couple of times and the patches maybe latest 1-2 days so if you wish something to obtain you home this might work. Also the kit only comes with maybe 20 patches that are what you imagine when getting a bicycle patch kit. The rest are just chunks of rubber. I haven't tried them. My kit also came missing patches so I didn't even obtain the 56 tom line not a amazing patch kit. save your cash search something else.
Best patch kit I could ever dream of owning. I already had two more tubes of patch glue before, so along w the two tubes of glue that come w all these patches I think I am set for a long, long time. You may wish to buy the huge bottle of Slime brand rubber cement from Amazon www service for $6 or so if you wish extra. I already used one patch and it worked excellent! Create sure you place a thin layer of glue and allow it DRY THOROUGHLY for 20min to half hr or so. If your finger sticks to the glue even a little, wait til the glue dries, then apply patch and use the handle end of a screwdriver to attach the patch from center of patch outward toward edges all around to stick patch on securely.
I hold around a dozen of these in my tire repair kit. I don't need to use them often, but I when you need them you sure are glad you've got them! I recently used about 6 patches on an extended off-road trip in Mexico. All the patches I used stuck securely and did not leak. several were applied out 'in the middle of no where', and I was very satisfied that I had them and they repeatedly did what they were supposed to do.
Worked amazing with the enclosed glue, which isn't enough for all the patches, but haven't run into that issue of running out or the glue being dry since I only did one patch right now for our airbed. Have not had a issue since patching so the patch and adhesive that comes with this pack works as intended, which is always nice.
Compared too all the other kits for related $ this one has a ton of patches. To be clear, there's no method that the 2 tubes of glue would work for that a lot of patches. I've used 4 patches so far and they have worked perfectly, just follow the instructions.
This kit includes 2 glue tubes and a selection of round and square/rectangular patches of varying sizes which was exactly what I was looking for. However, when I came to use the kit I first used 2 consecutive round patches on a little puncture and each time I allowed the glue to 'go tacky' as instructed before placing the patch on. On inflating the tube each time after about 15 minute of putting the patches on, the grey outer part of each patch bubbled up then burst. I then thoroughly removed the dried glue and tried a square patch, but this time when I inflated the tube the patch did not adhere properly as the tube stretched around it and the patch leaked again.I need this kit for roadside repairs and other kits' patches glue on fine and can be inflated after 10 minute or so, which is what most of us need and we cannot wait overnight for patches to set.
I was looking for a huge container of resin because I had a few casts to create at one time. I almost didn't buy this one because it has a really little half ounce catalyst compared to 32 ounces of resin and most of the casting resins I see have equal parts resin and catalyst so I thought I was going to have to buy more catalyst to obtain my money's worth. Turns out that the little catalyst is plenty. You only need a few drops at a time. It doesn't come with mixing cups and stirrers like some of the kits. I learned that styrofoam cups DO NOT work (the casting resin will eat through the foam within a minute) but plastic cups are excellent and popsicle sticks were really cheap at any local store.I did wish to point out that this items does smell extremely strong. I have asthma and I did have to wear a mask. I also had to move my casts to the garage because the smell was too strong. I created the mistake of doing the casts in the winter so it took up to five full days to dry. They were still smelly so I had to wash the dried casts with soap and water to slay the smell. They still have a bit of an odor but not as strong.I also found out that the plastic top which covers the container can be used as a mold for the resin. I went ahead and used it as well as a secondary mold that I bought separately. I also bought the mold conditioner that is supposed to release the resin from the molds easily. I discovered the the mold conditioner I bought left a bit of a cloudy residue on my casts. It's more obvious in direct light. I learned later that a lot of people said the mold conditioner is not important and using baby wipes before pouring or putting the mold in the freezer for a few mins after drying will release it just e container itself has some easy steps printed on the side but the online directions I searched for are much more extensive and explain how to work with various objects like bugs or jewelry and even how to color the casts. I just searched Castin' Craft Casting Resin Instructions. You could probably find Polyester Casting Resin Instructions or something related to search e instructions also said to go by layers. I didn't understand this and because of the smell of the resin, I decided to mix a huge amount of resin at a time so I didn't have to deal with it for very long. I realized my mistake when the bugs I tried to cast kept floating to the top. I created a second cast with a little violin and pieces of wood that were supposed to give the appearance that the violin was shattered. All of the pieces also kept floating to the top. This is why the instructions talk about layers. You have to pour one layer, place your items in, allow it set for a while and then pour a second layer and so on as needed. So, if you are making a mold with objects in it, be sure to follow the instructions and do layers because the objects will float to to the top instead of staying centered. The objects also begin to break apart once the resin gels so trying to push the objects back down into the mold doesn't work well. Your cast might overflow as well if you pour too much and begin adding things because you're increasing the density.Overall, I really like this resin and it is super strong. It also would've been clearer had I not used the mold conditioner. I should've done it in the summer (since the resin works by a heated chemical reaction and it took up to five days to fully dry in the cold temps). I also should've been in a more ventilated zone (again, summer would've been better because I could've opened more windows). I also will go by layers next time like the instructions say instead of pouring an entire mold because the objects will float to the top and obtain off-center.
This items is incredible. If you like weird bugs and preserving them in a hard, transparent tomb for all eternity, at least. And, as it turns out, that is something I quite ere is a bit of a learning curve with this stuff, if you've never used resin, though. Sadly, I used my best specimen of tarantula hawk first, when I really should have gotten better with the resin beforehand. But it's okay; it's still beautiful cool.I highly recommend looking up Castin' Crafts instruction manual online and reading through it (maybe a couple times) before trying to use this stuff. Their ratio of drops of catalyst to resin per layer works perfectly for me (after some initial trial and error). And you most definitely wish to do this somewhere with amazing ventilation, because the smell is INTENSE, and it lasts until the resin is fully hardened (at least several hours, up to a full day).I didn't purchase resin molds - I figured I could obtain away with using things I had on hand - and, so far, it's worked for me, but again, only after a bit of trial and error. It casts well into Pyrex measuring cups (I recommend NOT using ones you will ever use for meal again), but I could only release the hardened resin by sliding a surgical scalpel around the edge and then popping it loose. Once I discovered that trick, however, it became much simpler. If you obtain something little enough to slide between the glass and the resin, it will break the seal and the resin will pop right out - no release spray needed.I will absolutely be purchasing more of this as I gather more interesting specimen during my time in the southwestern Arizona desert. I certainly had no idea this would be a hobby I'd take to so eagerly, but here we are, scorpions, tarantula hawks, and all.
Product seems old. Had yellowish tint after molding and wouldn't set up correctly. Very disappointed in this. I have a resin based business and have never had resin act like this unless it was past it's 6 month shelf life. Also seller will not answer to customer complaints and refund my money!
This items is horrible. If you don't mind an extremely powerful odor then it might work reasonably well if you double the catalyst.I tested it out making a couple coasters--abouy 4" square and using 2oz of resin each--about a 1/4 thick. I followed the directions to use 5x drops of catalyst per ounce. Supposedly it's ready to embed inclusions after about 30 minutes; I added lightweight stuff and a second layer of resin. The inclusions fell to the very bottom over the next several hours. 12 hours in it was still liquid around the edges and underneath. At 20 hours it's now currently but still very ck to the odor. I did this in a room with a ceiling exhaust fan--after 12 hours the odor has crept into the entire house. It smells like model glue. It's worse than most other resins or finishes I've worked with--and not worth it for the results.