Read superclean 100790 32 ounce automotive accessories reviews, rating & opinions:Check all superclean 100790 32 ounce automotive accessories reviews below or publish your opinion.
100 Reviews Found
I have painted so much items with this roll on coating. Plastic. Wood. Dozens of metal. It's all good, and it all holds up. Don't be fooled thinking this is anything like the same product in the rattle cans -- this roll-on truck bed coating is 100x better than the more expensive, same-branded spraycan liner.On my truck, I've touched up the front and rear steel bumpers and skids multiple times. They always clean up well, and after the layers I've added on there, there's minimal hurt after scraping versus logs or rocks offroad. I've even had people confuse it with rhino-liner or other expensive coatings, asking me where I got my armor coated.I grind everything smooth with an angle grinder with a paint stripper disc, then wipe acetone, then glob this items on in layers using the cheapest foam roller I can obtain at Home Depot. Wear gloves, it takes days to obtain off of your skin. Wear a respirator, this items is fumey until it dries.
Place this on my truck, followed the instructions and thought everything looked great. After the first usage (1 week later), already got marks in the paint. This was just moving some plywood around. Was hoping this would be a bit more robust, but sadly it didn't do well. Overall, it beats what I had on the truck before and worse comes to worse I'll reapply as required on spots.
I was inspired by the low cost of this to compare to a higher end pre-paint prep product with acetone/alcohol mix.I'm an overkill sort of guy, so the more wicked fragrance something has, the better it's going to work, right? This is an exception to that guideline.I haven't found anything that isn't removed by this cleaner that is removed by the more potent cleaners, it works amazing for removing sticker residue, and a lot of locations I'd normally use alcohol. This DOES need more time and agitation, but it will remove most things left after normal soap and water cleaning prior to painting. I still follow it up with isopropyl alcohol, but paint doesn't seem to mind either method if I use the alcohol, I use the alcohol to ensure surface is dry.If trying to do things quickly, the single step quick evaporating cleaners are still a better choice. For removing stubborn grease and glue residue in general household use, this items is also amazing with no risky fumes!
This product when cleaning the vehicles surface seems to take off not just dirt and grime but seems to create the surface look like fresh ,I found that wonderful because it almost seems like mostly water when it comes out of it's bottle. I highly recommend this for surface renewal especially before waxing or polishing.
I used this items to paint the outside of a custom subwoofer enclosure I created for the trunk of my Audi hatchback. I wanted something that was durable enough to stand up to abuse from all my outdoors gear going in and out of the trunk, and boy did this took about 4 coats to obtain the "textured" finish you usually see out of bed liner, but I got it! Smooth, like others have said, and not rough like Rhino. There is some gunky items in the can that actually clumps together to form the texture, so it is CRUCIAL that you shake the can up before you use it, and shake it well. Both my cans had all the gunk condensed at the bottom, and I had to re-seal them and shake to obtain it mixed why 4 stars?THIS. STUFF. STINKS.Lord have mercy, obtain ready to be gassed to death. I painted outside in the breeze, and it was definitely woozy work after about 40 mins. Even better, when it is curing, the scent lingers forever - and the curing process for me was around 7 days after the final coat was applied (humid PNW in April). During the curing process, near ANYHTING (including fingers) will mar the surface and cause the lining to scrape off or ruffle up. Plan for moving before starting paining (I created a stretcher thing out of 2x4's to take it from yard to garage).I recommend applying this items with a brush, as rollers cannot pick up the texturizing gunk properly, or layer it effectively. After multiple coats, one of those plastic texture rollers could be used to add more finish, but I found myself happy with the brush-stroke look. Be sure to a throwaway brush to apply this, though - it is impossible to obtain this crap out of a brush afterwards. It completely ruined the brush I used despite all my efforts to save it. RIP Brushy tience is key. I waited 30 minutes between each of 3 coats and one day before the 4th.Happy lining!P.S. The sub sounds wonderful XD
I used this to make a faux landau roof for my 97 Cougar. It worked perfectly. My vehicle really has a classy look now. NOTE: This works MUCH better than the spray ver of the same product. I did not use a foam roller - I used a paint brush for better control, first painting the product on a little area, then using the side of the brush to pat the surface lightly to remove brush marks. I saved a little amount for touch ups. See images for the end result. It is necessary to STIR BEFORE LOADING THE BRUSH - EVERY TIME - TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SOLIDS SUSPENDED IN THE PRODUCT ARE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED.
I used this on an 8 ft truck bed that sees light-moderate use: moving boxes, loads of recycling, bags of dirt, and the occasional trip to the lumberyard. This was my first time rolling a bed liner. I was very happy with the results.A few notes:The devil is in the info on the prep work. This WILL NOT BOND to a glossy surface. Yes it is a painful process to destroy the factory finish on your truck. Do it lling is a misnomer, as the synthetic roller I grabbed quickly fell apart. This product has a very high solvent content, so use a brush or natural-fiber outside or wear a respirator, ideally both (remember that solvent content...).The product is thin enough to level out most brush e can claims to cover 30-40 sq ft. That proved to be optimistic. Obtain three cans for an 8 ft bed, two should do a 6 Flow:1.) Wash out bed with a degreaser or detergent.2.) Scuff sand the entire surface to be painted. You wish to abraid the clear coat, but not remove the paint beneath.3.) Sand any rust spots down to bare metal, and feather around the resulting hole.4.) Wash again with water and light detergent. Rinse thoroughly, and let to dry.5.) Glove up. Any skin oil on the surface at this point will mess with the finish.6.) Mask off any adjacent areas.7.) Prime bare spots with Rust-Oleum automotive primer.8.) Paint as per label instructions. Do the sidewalls first. Wait two hours. Apply a second coat to the sidewalls and the first coat to the floor. Wait overnight to do the latest coat on the floor, so you can walk over the first coat.
I refinish wheels professionally and I normally use Custom Store Grease and Wax Remover Surface Prep and I decided to test this items out to save some and it didn't work at all. I used more than the Custom Store per wheel and I was left with a lot of fish eyes. So I switched back to Custom Shop, it's more expensive but it's worth it.I gave this 3 stars because wheels have a lot more silicone and grease on them then any other part of the car. So it takes a lot of cleaner to clean them and this items may work on spot repairs around the car. But for wheels or any zone that may have a lot of grease on it, I don't recommend this, use the Custom Store brand.
This roll in liner is a small labor intensive but if you prep the bed properly the coating is very durable and looks black truck has stood up to Miami heat and several laborious jobs without a single chip in the st-Oleum has turned out another solid product that will bring fresh life to any truck bed.
I used this to waterproof a tow behind trailer's domed cover instead of the issues associated with fiber glassing. It seems to have worked out VERY well after 4 weeks of towing at speed (45 to 70 mph ). No erosion noted, and we have had a lot of weather (rain ), used three coats after a period of cure ( 2 to 3 hours ) between each. I should add that the mileage is probably a small more than most people would place on. ( approx. 200 miles per week )
I painted the hood of my Toyota pickup with this "Bedliner" paint almost 3 years ago, It required a refresh and I wanted to do some on the fenders that had sun faded. The truck is a '94 Toyota pickup that has spent its whole life in So Cal and Texas and although it has no salt hurt from street salt, the sun has taken it's toll on the paint. This items works, looks and wears great. Just tape off, roll on and allow it dry. No rusting and no more sun damaged paint.
Man I love this stuff. I want I had discovered it sooner. What can't it be used for? Anything black that needs painting now gets covered in Bed liner. We have so much humidity in South Florida, any bare metal rusts instantly. My 1994 Jeep Wrangler is slowly being transformed into a Bedliner beast. Patio furniture frames, towing accessories, wheelbarrow, my children metal wagon, you name it. I started out with the rattle can but have worked my method up to the thicker stuff. Goes on smooth like butter without the need for as a lot of coats as the rattle version. Although it is a small more difficult to obtain perfe
Totally junk worthless. Either they sent me plain water in this bottle or it’s so old it’s not working at all. I apply this to my panels and it never evaporated. It stays until you wipe it dry. This product is supposed to be wiped on and it evaporates after you apply it but it doesn’t.
Purchased this for a craft - making trivets out of tiles. This product provided a clear coating to preserve the painted design on the tile. With a trivet, it is of course important for the finish to withstand heat from a hot pot or pan. Indeed it does (I applied 3 coats), and the decorative top of the trivet remained unmarred.
I've recently rebuilt a motor and decided to paint it. I used a can of Dupli-Color engine primer as a base and then sprayed this over the top of it. The Rost-Oleum engine paint has a really crappy nozzle, it clogs very easily and either sprays method too much or very little, so it's a very inconstant application. If you warm the can up to about 75F before hand it does go on a small better but it's still hit or miss on an even spray. I much prefer the Dupli-Color style nozzle.
I bought to paint my 5.3 LS engine. I used the Rustoleum 500 degree engine primer first and then painted this over it. Nice Chevy orange on my LS engine looks amazing in my 1968 C10 pickup. I recommend this product for the amazing quality paint results i achieved.
This paint works well, comes out of the can well, and it's shiny... the only issue is that it takes longer to cure than the can says. I painted one side of an engine with the primer and paint, allow it set for at least 19 hours, flipped the engine over and painted the other side... When I picked it back up, the paint stuck to the cardboard I sat it on, so I had to touch it up. The paint flows well when it dries. I saw some spots that looked like the paint wasn't sticking, but as it dried those spots filled in. Doesn't seem to do well with second coats, because they don't seem to dry smooth, but rather bumpy. The first coat is as amazing as it gets.
I bought this product to conceal several huge chips to my Weber kettle BBQ top after it landed on my patio when I dropped it . The color did not quite match but was close enough to not stand out too much , the paint went on well and I did not need a second coat . The BBQ has been over 500 degrees and no issue to the paint . Next summer I think I will spray the whole top and it will look amazing again . Amazing product that stands up to so much heat and looks amazing .
Purchased this paint for some touchups on my Ariens snowblower. I read this was related and it's much less expensive than the Ariens touch up paint. The match is extremely close (show vehicle close? no, snowblower? absolutely) I sprayed a piece of scrap metal before spraying anything on the snowblower. I purchased 2 cans of this for 1/3rd the of one can of Ariens paint shipped.
Amazing product. Take some time to dry up, but worked on my car's exhaust pipes, and rusted parts under the vehicle very well. Even if it lasted for one winter, I can top-up before next winter so that my vehicle remains protected from developing rust while the street has too much salt, snow, and water.
Learned this the hard method a lot of times. I restore Ariens lawnmower and snowblower decks. This Chevy orange matches Ariens orange exactly, and you must dust it (spit coat) first so the next coats have something to hang onto. Wait for all color coats, up to 3, to flash (about 5 or 10 mins each) and then apply the clearcoat. 2 coats of clear is perfect. This paint flows very well and after a few mins the topcoat will blend together just be patient. Remember, the hotter and drier the air is the faster it dries! Trust me, if you wish to wet sand and fix a run or whatever you must wait a MINIMUM of 6 months in warm temps for it to cure so test hard to obtain it right the first time. Patience and light coats is the key.
I paint the underside, frame and wheel wells of my trucks with this low gloss black paint. It seems to keep up well and sure makes things look nice. I would recommend it to anyone. Hold an eye on them, especially if you're going to a lot of them like me, the goes method up and method down sporadically.
My latest gas cap had the o-ring separate from it, so I bought this as a replacement.I haven't really thought about it again until I posted a various review on Amazon, and the website asked if I wanted to review it. If I am not thinking about it, I guess that means it is doing its job.
Miraculously I lost my gas cap a while ago for my Honda Element. Bought a $12+ replacement cap from Autozone and the “check gas cap” warning kept blinking ever since I replaced it. A lot of times the warning kept appearing after pumping cently a unique check emissions symbol/light appeared. That’s when I had enough. I bought the Stant gas cap on here and it arrived a day ter applying the Stant gas cap (which seems like quality) the light went away and I had no more warnings. Before buying this cap, I called a Honda dealership in Atlanta and spoke to the parts/service department. They must have thought I was on some mega meth because they were quoting me $65+ for a replacement gas cap.Overall, the Stant gas cap is great, it turned off the warning lights/messages, and has turned out to be a quality replacement.
This is an perfect for a Fuel Cap, it feels of related quality to the OEM cap, albeit a various style of gas cap for my 2005 Honda Civic Civic had its emissions/engine light on for the first time in its 10+ years/190,000mi lifespan, which had me a worried. After looking in my service manual, I saw that it stated that a loose fuel cap can often cause this, but also create sure you read your manual because even after its fixed, it can still take 3 days for the light to go away, assuming that was the actual problem. When I first check my gas cap, it felt a small loose and there was no pressure release when I untightened it, so I retightened it (its a 3-click design, don't like it as much as the single-click design the Stant has), and drove around for a day or two, and the light didn't go away, so I decided to this cap to be safe. By the time the cap came, it was on the 4th day, replaced the cap with the Stant, and the light was still on when my wife drove it to work. But, by the time she drove home, the light was off! I didn't see any noticeable cracks on my old cap, but the o ring did look a small worn down so I'm glad to have replaced it so e gas cap feels solid (plastic, of course), it has a single design (do not test and overtighten it!), and of course does its job as it ep in mind this isn't a guarantee for the check engine/emissions light, that's just a general warning light and can mean something far more serious, so I don't really agree with the 1-star reviews that claim it didn't fix the warning light problem. The gas cap works fine (assuming its the proper fit), so down-rating something because it doesn't fix a issue it wasn't designed for isn't right.
Worked amazing with the enclosed glue, which isn't enough for all the patches, but haven't run into that issue of running out or the glue being dry since I only did one patch right now for our airbed. Have not had a issue since patching so the patch and adhesive that comes with this pack works as intended, which is always nice.
I've been using this for a couple months.. I think I can actually review it works great, as long as you use it works based on a quarter turn mechanism to unblock the gas cap, so you turn the key 1/4 the method and the cap locks in and can turn counterclockwise, afterwards you have to turn the key back to the locked position before you can remove the key. My only true gripe is that with the little amount of zone in the fuel door compartment, it's tough to obtain my fingers in to turn the cap with the key sticking out, but thinking about it from a design perspective... there's no true better method to do , all in all, this is a amazing product if you, like me, don't have a locking fuel door and you would like to hold your gas in your gas tank and sugar, potatoes, and cheeto's out.
Got this and place it on my Ford F150 and almost immediately the check engine light came on for the fuel cap. The factory sensor from Ford does not work with this cap and the light will not only stay on but it blanks out your odometer until you take it off and replace with factory cap or restart it by taking the battery terminals off and resetting the computer. May work with other models but with my truck did not work, Or did work if I wanted to have a check engine light on for the rest of the trucks existence.
I use this on my vinyl shutters on the house. After 20 years of sun exposure, my shutters were getting that old, faded powdery look. One coat of this product and they look like new. The window washers apply this product and they are always impressed with the results.
I replaced my gas cap with this one since I went and had a diagnostic try done and they told me it was my gas cap. They said if I change it, it would create the light go off. So I bought this one and the light is still on. I guess I'll be taking my vehicle to the mechanics now.Update 3/28/19 on gas cap, still looks because it's plastic but once my vehicle was fixed at mechanics everything has been working fine so far.
I hold around a dozen of these in my tire repair kit. I don't need to use them often, but I when you need them you sure are glad you've got them! I recently used about 6 patches on an extended off-road trip in Mexico. All the patches I used stuck securely and did not leak. several were applied out 'in the middle of no where', and I was very satisfied that I had them and they repeatedly did what they were supposed to do.
Seems to work just fine. My old cap caused a check engine light to come on. It appears you have to check and replace gas caps on some cars/trucks about every five years. If the vent gets blocked or broken, then the vehicle will be topic to vapor locks and/or not good fuel flow. Only two keys and I need one for every set of keys I have.
Amazing product, plenty of hose, quality parts for my install on Polaris 800 RZR. This fits excellent with the Maradyne H40012 SANTA FE 12v floor mount heater, on Amazon they give a various kit that by the reviews will not fit the Santa Fe heater, this one fits perfect.
This kit said it would only fit 5000 series heaters, it will fit the H-400012 Santa Fe 12V Floor Mount Heater as well. Kit comes with everything you need to hook up defrosters. You will need a 2 1/8 hole saw to install the louvers. Worked out well on my 2013 Polaris 800 RZR-S.
My engine light was on for a while and the lady at a local auto parts shop said it was the gas cap!?? So I bought this and after the next fill the light ceased so it worked! Only problem with it is that I have to keep it while filling up because I had to chop the original one loose and there is not another strap to allow it dangle during filling.
I want I knew about this items Years ago! It’s awesome on your tires, dash, tonneau cover. It preserves all rubber and plastic for a long time.I have 2 sets of tires, one for summer and one for winter. I spray this items on the Entire tire before I shop them for the summer or winter and wipe with a Soft ter 6 months, they Still look brand fresh in eat Product!Thank you 303.
This a s really a amazing product. It excels at protecting tires, and making them look waxy black. I use it on tires, vinyl, and all of the rubber gasket type material on my vehicles and truck. Looks and works great, and lasts a very long time. This seller really cares about customer service. When I experienced a problem, they addressed it immediately, even on Sunday! Went above and beyond, to create sure I was pleased. Extremely happy with the product, and the Seller. I would from them again, whenever the need arises.
When my 2003 Toyota Corolla's engine light went on, I had it checked by a mechanic who informed me that a broken rubber seal of my gas cap was the culprit. I decided to around to see if there were less expensive alternatives to the standard/authentic parts. In my case, a "genuine" Toyota gas cap would've set me back about $15, which I thought was a bit much. So after checking around with different, compatible low-priced brands, I decided to give Stant a shot. A few fast observations, and YMMV (no pun intended!), but I found the cap a small smaller and a small harder to twist on and off my vehicle than the original part. Secondly, the engine light problem wasn't an instantaneous fix. It took a subsequent full tank refill and extra driving around before it went off.
this #10834 fits the gen4/gen4.5 toyota camrys for years 1998,1999,2000,2001. seems to provide a amazing seal and not draw any CEL codes after using the fresh cap for 6 months.if there were a complaint to be made, i would say that the cap surface is a bit smaller than the OEM sized fuel cap. this makes it a bit trickier to begin the cap for people with larger fingers or for people who may need to wear items on their hands in the winter. luckily in florida, i don't have any idea what happens to people in winter time.if the smaller cap size is the offset of me paying OEM that are double or triple in price, i'll live with it until i develop arthritis.
Amazing cap because it can be locked before putting it back on. I bought another cap from NAPA, and that cap needed me to place the cap back on before locking it. That was a huge pain at the pump, especially in Oregon where you can't pump your own gas. This cap allows the cap to be unlocked, removed, and then locked before putting it on. That makes it simple for putting it back on without the key.
Best patch kit I could ever dream of owning. I already had two more tubes of patch glue before, so along w the two tubes of glue that come w all these patches I think I am set for a long, long time. You may wish to the huge bottle of Slime brand rubber cement from Amazon www service for $6 or so if you wish extra. I already used one patch and it worked excellent! Create sure you place a thin layer of glue and allow it DRY THOROUGHLY for 20min to half hr or so. If your finger sticks to the glue even a little, wait til the glue dries, then apply patch and use the handle end of a screwdriver to attach the patch from center of patch outward toward edges all around to stick patch on securely.
There is no other rubber/plastic/leather/acrylic preservative on the shop that can even come close to this product. I have been using it for around 12 years now and it still impresses me. Not only does it preserve, it will restore sun faded plastic bumper trims, rubber weather stripping, etc. Go to 303's www service and read what it can do. It's all true. It's an awesome product and worth every penny.UPDATE - July 2014: The current owner/manufacturer of 303 Products, "Gold Eagle Products", contacted me regarding the problem of the Aerospace Protectant I had a issue with. They sent me another bottle and I received it the other day. First thing I did was give it a smell, and it is completely various smelling than the bottle I had complained about. The bottle I had purchased before smelled rank, not amazing at all. This fresh bottle's product smells good, and does indeed remind me of the 303 I used to use before. I have applied it to a chair that has the same type material as a vehicle interior, and it has the same look, feel, and sheen as the 'good old 303' I used to use. So it is looking like it is the 'real deal' and I am so glad to know that. I am convinced that for whatever reason, the prior jug of 303 I bought was somehow degraded. Perhaps the distributor who shipped it had stored the jugs in excessive heat, or something. I don't know, but whatever, that jug of 303 was not amazing stuff. The jug I just received is 'the amazing stuff' and I am so glad to know that it is! Thanks to Gold Eagle Products for restoring my faith in 303!UPDATE - May 2014: I wrote the review above, simply because I had purchased a fresh gallon of AP through Amazon. As noted, I have used 303 Aerospace Treatment for more than a decade. But this recent gallon I got, is not the same items it used to be. I recently learned also, that 303 Products got bought by a group in Chicago and it is no longer manufactured in Central California like it was before. It smells different. Having used 303 for probably more like 15+ years, I learned what the product smelled like. This product I recently bought smells different. This product does nothing, it's virtually worthless, I am very saddened to say. I loved 303 AP soooo much as a dressing for my rubber and plastic on my car. It always left a clean, sheen that was dry, not greasy, and created the rubber or vinyl look fresh and fresh. This fresh product does nothing. After applying it, it will literally evaporate away in a metter of a few hours leaving a dashboard cover, for example, looking dry and stressed instead of new and with natural sheen. I have now applied this recent ver of 303 to my car's dash and tires several times, and it looks like they have never been treated. No, I am not saying it is supposed to look slick, greasy, oily, or whatever. That has never been what 303 does and that is one of the reasons I loved it so much. But after using this product all my rubber and vinyl looks dried out, like it needs to be treated even after it has been treated multiple times.I sent two letters to the fresh owners, Gold Eagle Products of Chicago, and they have never replied to my question about whether the formula for 303 AP had been changed. I think their silence speaks volumes.I feel like I have lost an amazing product, and now I don't know what to use anymore. But I will need to search something because this "new" 303 Aerospace Protectant is truly worthless.
If you have the black plastic/vinyl fenders (or trim) on your vehicle, this is the BEST items on earth to preserve it. I've used other products in the past and now I refuse to use anything but 303. Yes, it's pricey. It's worth it.Easy to apply: spray a little amount (2 or 3 sprays) on a cloth towel and rub onto the plastic/vinyl. Re-spray towel as needed. One quart lasted me almost two years. I wash my 2010 Wrangler about once a week, and apply this to the front and rear fenders, front and rear bumpers, side-step tubes, mud flaps, mirrors, gas door, license plate holder, tailgate hinge covers, dash, console, door panels and surrounds. Everything looks like the day I bought it, brand new. I don't use it on my tire sidewalls, although I probably could. I have one towel dedicated to its use for 303. It has a saturated feel and I think it helps to conserve how much I have to spray to "keep it going."Downside: it washes off in the rain and will streak paint, but it wipes off easily with no evidence that it was there. When I was in Florida, if there was massive overnight dew, it would streak as the dew ran off and I'd have to reapply a fast touch-up. If the weather is dry, it lasts for weeks. To me, the most necessary part was protection from the Florida sun. I see so a lot of cars with fading/chalky sun-baked plastic and it ruins the look of the car/ide: It WORKS! My plastic/vinyl is dead-mint perfect. No residue to soil/stain your clothes if you rub versus it. Less "reflective" than other products created to "shine" the surface. Amazing for dashboards; won't obtain blinded by sun's reflection! It leaves the surface clean, not shiny. Just a nice and deep clean ver of the original color. Gets rid of the chalky gray water-spots that Wranglers obtain from the tire splash on the front bumper caps. It doesn't attract dust either, by the way, unlike the shiny tom Line: it really makes my Jeep look fantastic. It doesn't look like I emptied a can of shiny spray items at the [email protected]#$%!& just looks dry, excellent and new. If you own a Wrangler, or any car with black or dark grey plastic/vinyl trim, THIS is what you want.
Excellent for dash, plastics and door seals in car. I use this also on lawn mowers deck , blowers and trimers to protect plastics.Excellent product. This has no particular smell, milky apearance, i use it with cotton cloth to rub on. I do recommand a gallon dispenser pump to avoid wasting product.
Fit my 2000 Lincoln City Vehicle perfectly. Took care of that pesky engine light for awhile anyway. Plenty long enough to obtain inspected. These older vehicles tend to have a dozens of small issues. I know I had an evap code previously, so I thought this might help. Initially I restart it and then when I got about 75 more miles on my vehicle the engine light turned back on. Noooo! So I got this cap, installed it (very easily) and restart it again, this time getting 500 miles before the engine light came back on. I haven’t checked the code in awhile to determine what the problem is, I just know there has been intermittent “evap” problems triggering the engine light in the past. The engine light seems to come on almost immediately after an oil change, which is odd. If anyone has any tips, feel to allow me know!
This locking gas cap is a small difficult to use compared to other locking gas caps I have had for other cars. It's rather confusing if you haven't had one like this. I thought it was broken at first since the key only turns 1/4 of the method instead of 1/2 of a turn (ie: lock & unblock positions). The key only UNLOCKS it. Screwing it on tightly is what locks it. You have to then create sure it's locked by trying to unscrew it again.Due to this odd design, I knocked one star off. It feels a small but then again... it was wise. Unless you throw it on the ground, stomp on it and run it over with your car, it should keep up fine under normal latest thing I dislike, the keys I got with it do NOT say "GAS" on them like the image shows and like other lock gas cap keys do. Instead it shows a lock code which is also shown on the outside of the lock cylinder. Presumably so you can a replacement key if yours gets lost? That seems to conquer the purpose of security to some extent if any schmo can walk around with a key ring of gas cap keys and look at yours to see if he has one to fit it.
I’ve only been using this for 3 days so far, but it’s been great. The lock/key is very simple to use, to lock it you just twist it clockwise 3 clicks. I’m using it in a jeep xj & haven’t had any issues with it setting off the check engine light.
When the check engine light for my 2004 Subaru Forester went on I decided to focus in on the fuel cap because the light would go on and off depending on how much I tightened the cap, usually lighting up after my vehicle had sat outside all day. I decided to a fresh fuel cap from the dealer for $25.00. As a back-up I bought the Stant for $7.00 after reading the Amazon reviews in case the Subaru part didn't workout. Looking at both fuel caps side by side I can't tell the difference except that the Subaru part attaches to the fuel door so you don't have to keep the cap or risk losing it. The fresh fuel cap from the dealer didn't stop the check engine light from going on so I immediately switched to the Stant and the light went out (?). Just amazing. Not sure how this thing works so well, but $25.00 vs $7.00.
I have probably thrown away over $500.00 worth of bicycle tubes in my lifetime because the standard pimple looking patches leak over time. The Slime kit comes with 56 patches, 2 abrasion tools, 2 little tubes of rubber cement. Some of the patches are ridiculously big, the size of a billiard ball but there is a amazing amount of the standard quarter size, postage stamp size and rectangular size patches. First thing you message is these patches are very and pliable which makes it easier to work with. I am not a large fan of the Slime bicycle tubes but their patch kit is excellent. I have patched a couple tubes and learned from my mistakes so here are the steps.1. Pump up the tube and dunk in water in kitchen sink so you know exactly where leak is, there may be multiple leaks. Circle hole with pen.2. Throw the scraping tools away. I use 100 grit sandpaper to small sand the tube zone the size of the patch you are using.3. Apply the rubber cement to the zone on tube that is slightly larger than the patch. It is much better to have too much cement then to have a corner of patch come loose. Peel off the blue protective tape and apply a thin layer of glue on the GRAY zone of the patch, believe me, I also thought the glue goes on the black rubber area.4. Let the glue to air dry for 2 mins then place on the patch and press down and keep for about a minute.5. I take a piece of aluminum foil and fold around the patch then place in middle of huge book (foil protects the book pages) then I put a massive weight, in my case a huge container of rice on top of the book and I allow this sit overnight.6. After the patch is dry I pump air into the tube just to check that there is no leaks then it is ready to install on your bicycle.
These are patches designed for use in tire inner tubes. They work amazing for that, when using the included glue. I see that lots of Amazon reviewers have creative uses for the patches, but I can't speak to how well they work for anything but tire tubes. If you use them for tire tubes, you won't be disappointed.If you're a serious motorcyclist or bicycle rider you should carry some of these patches. A street side patch could save you a long walk or an expensive tow bill.I have performed several street side tube repairs with these patches on motorcycle tubes, and they have gotten me home every time. Personally, I replace a tube after I patch it as soon as possible, just to be safe.I patched a friend's tube, on a 500cc dual sport bike, with one of these patches about a year ago. He has place about 2,000 miles on it since an it holds air just fine.
Compared too all the other kits for related $ this one has a ton of patches. To be clear, there's no method that the 2 tubes of glue would work for that a lot of patches. I've used 4 patches so far and they have worked perfectly, just follow the instructions.
It’s 303,need I say more. I use this items on anything and everything that doesn’t ught it to use on vehicles(thanks Sweet Project Cars!)but found out that it has thousands of uses inside the home as well. I use it on laptops,TVs,vacuum hoses,remote controls,pretty much any plastic that has a tendency to wear out or obtain dirty quickly. I highly recommended it!!!
Price was good. My "check engine light" said do-something: EVAP. Replacing the gas cap was the first in that exercise. Didn't work. So I also replaced the charcoal canister and a control valve. That total fix worked. So, I really don' know if the old (OEM) gas cap was faulty. However I do know that this one is not. The quality is adequate. It is just a gas cap. (What can you say?) The was excellent, as was the quick delivery from Amazon.
Ok so. Iv never had one of these before but figuring it out was beautiful self explanatory.1. Insert key, (has a matching code etched on the side)2. Turn key one quarter to right3. Leave key inserted and twist cap back at's fore closing I remove the key. I close the gas port by screwing in clockwise until I feel resistance and hear it clicking. Mine appears to lock by itself without needing any further messing check and see if its locked grab the cap once fully inserted and spin it. It should spin freely without catching to come anks for reading. If you found my review useful, Smash the helpful button and have a amazing day;)
I pulled into a gas station to fill up. I worked for ten mins trying to obtain it to unlock. Luckly I had a quarter of a tank and drove on home. Screwed with it for 15 more mins and finally got a pair of channel locks and popped the locking top off and unscrewed it by hand. I would have been stranded, destroyed the piece of crap, and after taking it off with the channel locks, realize it was a joke anyway. It got ONE star cause it won't publish with ZERO stars. DO NOT BUY!
For a guy who owns both a roadbike and an MTB, these are essential. They a wide dozens of patches in different sizes and shapes. The rubber cement provided is really good. They have provided a metal scruffers too, but I prefer to use sandpaper to touch up my puncture areas. The patches are of really amazing quality and bond well with my inner tubes. Apply the cement on both the patch and the buffed zone of the tube, blow on air for a min or two and then press the patch firmly, I just stand on the patch which ensures a amazing press. Never have had issues of the patches stripping out. I prefer these to the ready to stick ones.
I have used this a couple of times and the patches maybe latest 1-2 days so if you wish something to obtain you home this might work. Also the kit only comes with maybe 20 patches that are what you imagine when getting a bicycle patch kit. The rest are just chunks of rubber. I haven't tried them. My kit also came missing patches so I didn't even obtain the 56 tom line not a amazing patch kit. save your search something else.
This kit includes 2 glue tubes and a selection of round and square/rectangular patches of varying sizes which was exactly what I was looking for. However, when I came to use the kit I first used 2 consecutive round patches on a little puncture and each time I allowed the glue to 'go tacky' as instructed before placing the patch on. On inflating the tube each time after about 15 minute of putting the patches on, the grey outer part of each patch bubbled up then burst. I then thoroughly removed the dried glue and tried a square patch, but this time when I inflated the tube the patch did not adhere properly as the tube stretched around it and the patch leaked again.I need this kit for roadside repairs and other kits' patches glue on fine and can be inflated after 10 minute or so, which is what most of us need and we cannot wait overnight for patches to set.
Was having some check engine lights with code P1443 and sometimes P0172. After replacing the Evap canister purge valve and still getting the code, I did some more research and the fuel cap can do that (at least the P1443 code). I replaced it and the codes have not been back since. I guess the 17 yr old Subaru cap could not latest forever. I adapted a ball chain to the cap so it won't obtain lost.
The cap looks and fits amazing on a '99 Honda CRV. This fuel cap is amazing quality, it's durable fastens tightly, and like I said; it's a excellent fit for my '99 Honda CRV. Things to note are that this fuel cap is smaller than my stock cap in exterior dimensions so it fit with ease inside my fuel door, the other thing to note (as I'm sure you can see) is that this has no cord to keep it to the car, nor can one be added. This is what I miss most about my old fuel gap, instead of just letting this one hang you have to take it off and place it somewhere at the pump, although it hasn't happened to me I'm sure that some people will forget this cap at the pump because it's out of website when you're done l in all, if you can obtain over not having a cord to keep it in put when the cap is off then this is a amazing replacement cap.
Place this cap on and the check engine light went out.... I changed out the O2 sensor about 5 years ago and someone told me then to replace the gas cap. FYI Oriley's Auto and other parts stores can no longer clear codes on the OBD2 so your 'check engine' light will stay on until the issue is l these years and all I required was a fresh gas cap. 5 Stars for being and easy.